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Expansion tank question


Palantirion
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¬†To excessively condense the story: I am taking back ownership of fixing my Avanti due to yet another incompetent mechanic. I have already solved several persistent leaks after discovering that certain transmission and oil pan bolts were not torqued to spec. And the upper dipstick tube was not connected to the lower, so the dipstick tip was just hanging in mid air. Fun stuff to discover ūüėí

I was chasing down the remaining leaks today and when I had my R1 (actually an R2 block with R1 innards, long irritating story) idling I noticed that the expansion tank was vibrating a lot more than the engine. I put a little downward pressure on it with my hand and its vibration sync'd with the engine's. Then I noticed what seems to be an unused bracket below it. I am concerned that maybe the brazing of the tank might fail sooner from the excessive vibration (it has failed before), so if I can secure it better I want to. Advice?

Also, the upper radiator hose is resting against the battery bracket stud threads. That's not right is it?
 

21,01-15, expansion tank not mounted correctly_72.jpg

21,01-15, hose rubbing threads_72.jpg

Edited by Palantirion
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I only have a small picture/computer screen, but it appears to me that the radiator hose can be moved further onto the radiator nipple.  This will alleviate or eliminate the problem.  I think that the tank should be fastened to the bracket.  

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I think your upper radiator hose may be reversed....The straight 'ends' are not the same length...and if you turn it around it will probably clear the battery bracket....This is a very common situation, as the upper hose will fit either way!....good luck!...Ed:)

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Thanks so much for the ideas guys! 

And if during its last "repair" the stud on the bottom of the expansion tank was not brazed back on? Then what...

And if it is there, should there be a washer between the tank and the bracket? Something was there before, judging from my pic. Or perhaps a rubber washer?

 

p.s. Is the tank brazed together (what I had been told), or soldered? Because I can do the latter, have not attempted the former.

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52 minutes ago, Palantirion said:

Thanks so much for the ideas guys! 

And if during its last "repair" the stud on the bottom of the expansion tank was not brazed back on? Then what...

And if it is there, should there be a washer between the tank and the bracket? Something was there before, judging from my pic. Or perhaps a rubber washer?

 

p.s. Is the tank brazed together (what I had been told), or soldered? Because I can do the latter, have not attempted the former.

A thin rubber or plastic washer between 'L' shaped bracket and tank bottom would not be a bad idea, however, there was nothing there originally.

The expansion tank halves are soldered together.

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Did some work today. See pics of my improvised short term solution for the expansion tank. My car will be in an art museum for a month in a week and a half, and I don't have time to properly remove/repair the tank before then. A very ghetto repair, but now the tank doesn't vibrate out of sync with the engine any more. Drilled and tapped a piece of scrap pine (from a stake) for a spare bolt I found, then shaped it with a knife to fit with just a little upward pressure on the tank, then adhered a little pad of hi temp silicone to dull any micro impacts.

And speaking of vibrations. See the pic of the trans dipstick. It's blurry because it's bouncing a lot more than the rest of the engine vibrates. Makes me wonder if it's missing a bracket towards the top or something.

21,01-16, wood spacer because expansion tank stud missing (1)_72.jpg

21,01-16, wood spacer because expansion tank stud missing (2)_72.jpg

21,01-16, wood spacer because expansion tank stud missing (5)_72.jpg

21,01-16, trans dipstick boucing a lot more than engine_72.jpg

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.851697369_SurgeTank.thumb.jpg.d6ece9226c6aca7955a3fb7439ee7d31.jpg

The stud is not soldered to the tank. It is a weld stud.

258157989_WeldStud.jpg.dfb99840cd0bebefd2fbd5c648af7e17.jpg

 

The bracket is slotted and can be adjusted at the block to raise it so the tank will rest on it.

There should not be that much space between the bracket and tank.

 

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6 hours ago, regnalbob said:

.

The stud is not soldered to the tank. It is a weld stud.

258157989_WeldStud.jpg.dfb99840cd0bebefd2fbd5c648af7e17.jpg

 

The bracket is slotted and can be adjusted at the block to raise it so the tank will rest on it.

There should not be that much space between the bracket and tank.

 

-Hmm, well I wonder why I am studless then. Frustrating.

I can look into adjusting the bracket, that's a really good tip! Would you consider it resting firmly on the bracket (on on a silicone pad on that bracket) to be an appropriate long-term solution? There wouldn't be a connection in tension, and there would be more strain put on the water pump fitting than if it were secured via a positive connection.

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You could try an adhesive mount stud on your tank.

They are available form McMaster-Carr.

1228981210_Adhesivestud.png.dcc72d46f6862670ac7acedec58b9ad7.png
316 stainless steel studs have excellent resistance to chemicals and salt water and may be mildly magnetic. Large holes allow adhesive to flow through the base for a secure hold.

 

If you are not concerned about authenticity you could replace your tank with a surge tank elimination kit available from Studebaker vendors.

1219810169_SurgeTankEliminator.jpg.2ae024b8002346ea4438eed23a46e246.jpg

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Here's what keeps that tank steady in our R-2. Not saying this is "original" but it is an almost daily driver, and has no shakes.IMG_1647.thumb.jpeg.132661dd025f75eac4db5b56d716a961.jpeg

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