Paul K.

1nxs, kwol, thanks for the good words. @Stormy, nice survivor. @KWOL, "To Paint or Not to Paint. That is the Question" Liking your Silver Shadow. I have a '71 Corniche Coupe' that I want to paint because I dont like its gold color. Also have a '78 Bentley T2. Love the R-Rs and Bs. - Great cars with interesting automotive history. PITA to maintain though. 🙂

I agree. Looks like a solid car. Before you go all out and paint it, try giving it a good polishing. My 63 (sold) sat in a garage for 35 years. Here is what it looked like before and after a wet sanding and polish. It took a 3rd place in one of the classes (forgot which one) at the LaPalma Studebaker Show in Anaheim, CA a few years back too. Amazing what some "elbow grease" and patience will produce. I enjoyed it as a driver and it had that worn original look. Keep us posted!

I've found most sunroof leaks are caused by clogged sunroof drain tubes causing the "ice cube tray effect" when the watwe backs up into the sunroof channel and spills over/into the inside of the car. Check the drains first for blockage. As a side note, Avanti II sunroofs drain into the hog troughs so there is no way to blow compressed air "backwards" into the drain tube to move the blockage. Using compressed air in the "reverse flow" method is effective, however, it can also blow the drain tube from its fitting causing an bigger drain problem. I've found the blockage is up high near the roof when some leaves got into the drain tube and clogged them. I take a piece of wire smaller then a coat hanger and run it down the drain tume hole located in the sunroof channel. Then pour water into the drain hole. If the drain is clear, you will see water draining from the front section of the hog troughs.

I owned a 72 and 74 Avanti which had GM keys for the doors and for the ignition. I owned a 76 Avanti and it had Chrysler keys for the doors and ignition, ALL 3 used a Studebaker key and lock for the glove box (my 76 had the original Studebaker key). Both GM and Chrysler locks will fit the GM/AMC steering column from my experience (I swapped them) and it seems the door locks too. It's possible the door locks were changed due to a door handle swap for better chrome during a repaint. Just a guess.

Sorry, but I don't. Usually, I save info like that but it was an easy match so I didn't.

Its a simple repair for an experienced mechanic familiar with this type of coupler. About 1 hour labor. I did mine on a 74 in the parking lot of a storage facility so I could drive it away. Took an hour maybe a little less. NAPA had one in stock but no listing for Avanti II (of course) Just asked for a few samples of 70s Chevy rag joints and matched it up.

I have a similar situation. I want to remove a car I no longer own. I asked about it years ago but couldn't get instructions to make the change.

I purchased a new gasket for my car when painted and received one narrow that would not reach the outer body edge of the glass opening in certain areas leaving small gaps. The vendor said his gasket was correct and mentioned other vendors gaskets were incorrect, too wide and looked like a "truck gasket". I didn't pursue a refund becasue the vendor was "right" but I had the facts - a properly installed gasket that didn't fit. I purchased one of the "incorrect" gaskets from another vendor and it fit and looked perfect. This was 20 years ago and I'm sure any poorly molded gaskets are now long gone so probably not an issue today. Good luck and if you accidently break your rear glass ( I hope not! ) I have one I'm tired of looking at and would like to sell.

What the wheelwrap a custom or a pre-made like Wheelskin?

Below is a photo of my 74 (sold) showing another example of covering the frame ends where the CC was mounted. "Correctness" really doesn't matter much with Avanti IIs but to me, this retrofit looked correct and required virtually no modification. This was 20 years ago, but with my 74, I remember using some long bolts and pieces of narrow pipe (which I painted) that worked as a spacer between the frame end and the fog lamp allowing the lamp to mount level. The pipes were a "sleeve" around the bolt. To each their own but I was happy and it took only an hour to install. From the side viewpoint, the frame end could still be seen a little but the end was covered and the fog lights became the focal point.

I have a few tanks here if you need one. If I remember I have both versions for Studebaker and the later Chevy engines.

Thanks for posting Ed. Nardi wheels are not just nice to look at but they really offer a nice "feel". My 74 Avanti II had a Nardi from the factory and I really liked it. I currently have one on my 71 Rolls Corniche, also on my 78 Bentley T2. However, I was showing the Bentley and needed to install the factory wheel to not lose points so I put it on my 72 Stutz Blackhawk which was missing its original Nardi. Nardis were so popular with the European cars and in the 60s and 70s. A great wheel.

+ 1 Wayne +1 Wayne. Original steel wheels from the pre-radial tire era (1960s and earlier) are not strong enough to handle the additional stress radial tires present. I've heard of wheels failing altogether or flexing and hubcaps coming off. Used Ford or Mopar from the 1970s and newer were designed for radials and will fit the Studebaker chassis Avantis. If I remember, 5 x 4.5" is the bolt pattern. If you want originality, I don't know of a steel wheel I've described as narrow as the original Avanti wheels (5"?). FWIW, Avanti Motors installed Ford steel wheels or optional Magnum 500 chrome wheels and Borrani wire wheels.

Good news Stormy. Ultrasonic soaking is remarkable. For those that don't have access to one, I've had reasonable success cleaning fuel senders by cleaning with a penetrating oil such as WD-40 or better. I have heard a bleach soak works too but don't know first hand.