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Avanti83

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About Avanti83

  • Birthday 01/08/1943

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bay City, Mi

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  • My Avanti
    1983 RQB-3651

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  1. IIRC there are threaded studs on the bottom of the reservoir that are accessed from under the dash.
  2. Go to youtube, you are looking at cutting and buffing more than wet sanding. 1inxs is correct in you will need to be comfortable with the process, otherwise the cost of the equipment, polishing compounds and supplies will go a long way toward paying to have it done professionally. It's pretty easy to buff through the paint if you hit an edge or sharp contour line.
  3. Looks a lot like my hi-tech spray booth. Your plan to go forward is solid but when you get the car in the air to replace the bottom plate (basically 4"X 1/8" plate steel) give the hog troughs a very close look. If they need some metal but are good nick generally, it's basically just sheet metal work.
  4. Let me also suggest that you inspect the "hog troughs" and frame for rust. As you probably know these are the areas of the Avanti that are prone to deteriation and it's better to evaluate and repair before others fixes on the list as a complete repair could entail removing the body from the frame or cutting the rocker panels lose and then glassing them back in if the hog troughs need replacing.
  5. The best way I've found is to use Google search. Just type in "Avanti R12 how much" and it will come up high on the list.
  6. By the same logic, if the top of the loop in the vent line is well above the tank top, why would the fumes go up and out the vent line?
  7. AMC column if it's like mine. I don't recall my exact procedure but here's an AMC post. https://theamcforum.com/forum/how-to-remove-ignition-switch-1974-matador_topic49318.html
  8. Yes, use a decent size flatblade screwdriver.
  9. Looks right. Both nuts should be tight to the yoke and in the correct position when you can set the emergency brake before it reaches the limit of it's pull.
  10. That's a good deal considering all the included parts. Can you use a standard fan with that setup. If so, it's better than my setup that required an electric fan due to the distance between the drive and the radiator. I have a ton of Chevy parts from the early 90's and found that the setup from most early 90's serpentine systems will work if you use the Camaro passengers side mounting bracket to keep the a/c unit low. You may also need to drill and tap one hole in the passenger side cylinder head depending on the year the head came from. This is mine although the idler on the passengers side now has a Sanden Compressor replacing the idler pulley.
  11. T-56 six speed should get you 450 lb/ft but to go higher just go to Tremec. https://www.tremec.com/
  12. If you want a different cover there should be plenty available for a Dana 44 housing from the 4X4 community. Realistically, I'd take some material off the plug base and move on. You could also measure the OD of the base and go to a Big Box store and see if they have a larger one in their inventory. Not all plugs are threaded to the same depth so I'll bet there are ones that will fit better. Your cover could also have the threads opened up by overtightening. Several ways to reduce the problem.
  13. These are out of my 83. If you are interested, I'll look for the grills.
  14. I may have a couple off a 74 or 83 if you are interested. I'll check if you are interested.
  15. Just to be sure we're all on the same page, Dan doesn't recommend a dry installation. As above he recommends 3M bedding compound prior to the installation and the Butyl rubber sealant afterwards.
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