Kodjo

Oke, well, today I reversed back to the mechanical fan setup. Works like a charm except being loud and the belts start to scream around 3000RPM. Before, there was a torque limiting clutch, now a viscous drive. This viscous drive is putting to much strain on the belts. I can't find a torque limiting drive that fits my car... The 2000 CFM fan was not enough for my car...I could fit a bigger one but then I would also need a bigger alternator. This route cost a lot of money, time and effort. I'll take the noise of the mechanical fan...

I replaced the mechanical point by electronic version, so no wear. The timing should be about right; 12dg base and 34 max at 3000 RPM. I have an '69 Avanti but no deflector installed...I think. I know an air dam, but what is a deflector?

That could be. I think the dam works a bit different; it creates a lower pressure behind it and therefor pulls air true the radiator. Anyway, I think these deflectors are ugly...

I think there is no dirt in the engine, nor in the radiator. Last winter I rebuild the engine. The hose is good, cap is new. Timing might be a bit early, would that hurt?

And, is she running cool? I have fitted a 2000CFM fan also. It keeps cool at low speeds and stop and go traffic. On the highway she gets warm. In my car, I made an aluminium shroud, you did not. Would this make an difference in (higher) speed?

Same with me.

Did it, works great!

That makes sense! So probably you are right Jim. I'll try to repair the switch.

Hi, The Safety switch is called the Neutral Safety switch in the wire diagram. Also, in forum discussions here, this switch is referred to as Neutral Safety Switch. Strange thing, my Avanti ('69) only starts when in Park. Did I adjust the switch wrong or is the naming in the wire diagram misleading? Just asking because while the car does not start (in Park). I'll have to work on the switch anyway. Thanks! PS: In the manual this switch is called Starter cutout switch...

It screws in. Find a someone with small hands, it is hard to do. Yes, only light and cable.

Indeed! In my car tape was used to do the same...I'll use your solution in the future if I'm at it.

...or read the manual. That is how I did it.

Looks really nice!

I've put the entire cable in a bucked filled with oil...Same for the cables under the dash. Worked great but is a bit rude...

You’ll have to get inside. So the glass needs to be removed. Once you are in there, it is adjustable with a screw. You could then modify the housing in a way that the adjustment can be done from the outside. I didn’t…fingers crossed.

I'm confused. Avanti II has an chevy engine. My assumptions was/is that they came with a Chevy sensor. So, when the reading was low, I bought a new Chevy sensor but the readings did not change. Inside the gauge are 2 bi-metals covered with wire. One bi-metal is for the correction of voltage fluctuation, the other goes to the sensor. Is this setup equal to the Studebaker? I assume the gauge itself is like the Studebaker. My Avanti is from '69 and the S logo is all over the car. Today I found this decode table for SW gauges. My G10 seems to be made in October 1963. This should be according to the Studebaker specification.

Thanks, great info. I think my gauge is now indicating almost the right temperature.

Oh, well, I adjusted the gauge as it seems in order. Now the values are: 220 Ohm -> 150F 150 Ohm -> 180F 60 Ohm -> 240F I hope this is right, think so.

I did replace the temp sender in the engine. That gives the right values, see table below. But, with the gauge on the table, wired up with a variable resistor, the needle does not go to the right value Fahrenheit. So, my conclusion is that the gauge is wrong. I disassembled it but do not know how to adjust it. .

Hi, My '69 Avanti has a temperature gauge that indicates too low temperatures. I never did see the temperature go above the 150F. Now, I've got the gauge out of the car. With an 120 Ohm resistor in place, it reads 140F. There is now a way to adjust it from the outside. So do I have to open it or just buy an other one? Kodjo

My '69 side markers are square. Are you sure this picture is right?

and up.

What wire do you use to measure the negative side on the coil? Not the wire to the distributor right? Use the engine as negative. If you have 12 volts at one end and 2 volts on the other end, wire or ground is no good.

Ignition switch bad (contact)?

I ment the solution you drew in the start post. I understand the function of the air dam. Both solutions increase airflow true the engine bay. But, if I had to choose one, it would be your suggestion and keeping the original design of the car. Combining the two would be the coolest solution 🙂