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Everything posted by Kodjo

  1. Mine wasn't plugged. Still on the car.
  2. Just, do not hit the gas in a corner and you should be safe.
  3. Ow man, awful! It was a very nice car! If it was my car, I would bin it. Too expensive to repair. But, if you are in love, nothing is too expensive right? It is technically repairable but not economical. I try not to drive my 1969 Avanti II with twin traction in the rain. It is plain dangerous (but you already know 😞
  4. Most are not able to remove the elbow below the tank. I just enlarged the hole in the fibreglass and took the tank, with the elbow still fitted, out of the car.
  5. From StudeTech https://www.studebaker-info.org/ https://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/Brakes/sdc34736m.html
  6. Yes, Peter is right. You probably can't see them with the carpet in place. At least, I could not. Found them after lifting the carpet.
  7. Use a mechanical switch on the brake pedal. The old switch can stay in (but unused) for originality reasons.
  8. I'll give it a try! Could you give me some more contact info of Dave?
  9. I don't see it? It's on the pasenger side of the engine? My main problem is that a surge tank is an inveriour system over an expansion tank. The latter is mare reliable. But, with my leaking expansion tank, a surge tank is the easiest option: https://www.parts123.com/parts123/dyndetail.pta?catalog=0001003a&uKeY=AANCO
  10. Seen that topic, did not help. My tank was at a professional shop but was leaking soon after. I do not like the plastic surge tank solution but it might be the only option left....
  11. I have done it, twice. Failed both times. First I tried to solder it. Tried at least 5 times. After that, I tried 2 layers of epoxy...Still leaking. Then, I added an other 3 layers and the #%$%@$%@$ tank still leaks! I was afraid for the bolt to come loose and create a big leak. So I've made some sort of brace, see picture. All the TLC and still leaking? If you know a solution that involves a complete new tank, i'm in!
  12. It can't be difficult to repair yourself. Open the chrome bezel with an old screwdriver and you're in. There are movies on youtube for help.
  13. Our polyester does not resonate. Sound deadening material does not have the same effect as it has on metal cars. I would try to find the source of the sound and remove that. The driveshaft is a suspect, as the exhaust.
  14. I have an SBC 350 and the altenator it touching the hood allmost. I did cut away a part of the insulation for that. So, lowering the front of the body will certainly give problems with my setup:
  15. I bought this one, but I have a Chevy 350 smb engine: Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Hayden 2799 Maybe this does not fit your engine! The old one in my car had these dimensions (in mm, see below) and the Hayden 2799 was a 1 to 1 replacement.
  16. No! I fitted a generic one.
  17. Windshield seal? I'm having the same leak but can't find the source. I thought it was the seal and used a lot of silicon. Still leaks. Please let me know if you do find a solution!
  18. I agree with your findings. The new plasic/rubber piece should slide into the metal part. The matal part should stay on the car. The old plastic/rubber can slide out and the new one in.
  19. Yes, I think so. I bought a copy in July.
  20. Thats a bummer! I've used colored wire wraps to "code" the lines. Works very well:
  21. That was my first thought too!
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