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Everything posted by Kodjo
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Nice! What would be the benefit of this plastic cover?
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I've got this one, fits great. It is older but probably available:
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I'll put G11 in it then, after flushing the complete system with water. Thanks for the confirmation! PS: Glycerol + 20% H2O = glicerine https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glycerol
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So, up to 12++ would be safe as these are made of Glycol. G13 is made of Glycerol. Is that the difference?
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The expansion tank keeps leaking, each time in a new location. Now I think I have discovered what the problem is: there is G13 coolant in my Avanti. That appears to affect lead (in the solder)! What coolant do you use; G11 or G12?
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My 1969 Avanti 350 engine has engine code V0830 8BQ or 3BQ, I can't tell from the picture. But, still do not know what 8 or 3BQ stands for.
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My guess is that the windshield seal is leaking.
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Now i do uderstand what a dashpot does! I would like to have one on my Avanti II with a Chevy 350. @Gunslingerstates Edelbrock sells dashpots. I'm going to look for one!
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My English is not great. Could you please explain what a dashpot is?
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I disagree as the top of the ventilation hose is much higher than the filler opening. So, the excess of fuel would pour out the filler opening. The hose is there for ventilation. Even the parts catalog states "0307-18 HOSE, gas tank vent".
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Does he still sells the book?
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A pillars? Seems most likely although they are "good".
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Were did you buy those? I am looking for covers myself two but can't find a supplier.
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Lubrication for Climatizer (heater and vent) cables
Kodjo replied to Bob Vaughn's topic in 1963-64 Avanti
I did it with regular engine oil. Just brushed it in with a toothbrush. Worked well but if I would do it again I would use this mixture. -
easy way to change instrument lights in 1964 R1?
Kodjo replied to brant mulgrew's topic in 1963-64 Avanti
There is no easy way. I have big hands and could do it without removing the dash. I would never go for LED. To bright for me. I think that in to 60's, the world was darker and the dash light was bright enough. Now we have streetlights, the dash needs more light. Well, I refuse and go for the old bulbs. -
@Jred Wow, nice floor mats! Were did you get these?
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Need help getting power windows to move without binding
Kodjo replied to Jim S's topic in 1984-91 Avanti
So, the windows goes down quickly but slow upward? If so, it is decently the spring that is missing. I am unfamiliar with you window construction. For older Avanti's there is an excellent manual here: https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Bhend/Powerwindowrep0313.pdf -
i'm curious two! Don't see how this can be done with shims.
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The stainless steel parts on my Avanti are screwed, not "clicked". The inside of the cover is . Maybe other cars have a different construction?
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No, i do not. They charched me 450 euro for sending a set to the netherlands. The set itself would cost an other 750 euro or something like that. At the Dutch border, they will add an other 21% to it. To expensive for me. I have added a 5th leaf to my old rear springs. That did the trick and costed only 300 for both springs. The rear of the avanti has gone up an inch or so. I like it.
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Did you try these guys? https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/application/avanti/
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Can imagine that this will give problems. You could at least pick the thinest on from the parts list. This is not possible, the engine will not fit under the hood.
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Need help getting power windows to move without binding
Kodjo replied to Jim S's topic in 1984-91 Avanti
Did you check the spring that helps the motor winding the window up? If the spring is broken, the window goes slow up and rapid down. -
Yes, we have tested with vacuum before filling the airco. It did hold then and the airco worked for 2 weeks. I'll have a look again at my pump some day.
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I think my box is the same, one shim on that bolt. I think the best way is to loosen the steering column at both ends first so it can move freely. Then you mount the box on the frame. Fit the lap joint between the box and the column and tighten the bolts of the column. In this way, the alignment between box and column must be correct. The rag joint absorbs an angle difference between box and column. What you have to watch out for is an offset between the axes of the box and the column. This will indeed cause your bearing to break and the rag joint to fail early.