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very nice job. excellent work

I wonder if the one or two experimental 340 CI Studebaker engine blocks, that made it out of the factory, had any type of numbering I.D. on them?

Nice job. Thanks for posting. This will help others. --Dwight

Looks like it was built that eay, nice work.

Nice job!

For lack of input and a desire to move along I went for it and it came out quite well. Weldwood contact cement worked out, it seemed to soften the vinyl and it went around contours without problem, I hope someone finds this helpful

What is fishy about it? I bought my Avanti from the same seller, but not through Bring-a-Trailer. I inspected my Avanti in the seller's driveway so I knew what I was getting, where the photographs for this car were taken. Everything was smooth and legitimate.

Hi, does anyone have the Avanit Logo as a vector graphics file? (e.g. *.eps or *.ai). I want to have it print on a car cover and they can only process vector graphic files ...

The car was not in good shape. From looking at the photos, it needed everything. It sold for just under $14K and it wasn't worth that in my opinion

Has anyone glued a new cover on fiberglass rear deck behind rear seat? Just wondering how to do it without puckering the vinyl, its contours make it a difficult job or so it appears to me.

Finally got old radio out. Antenna wire was hard wired into back of radio and broke off while forcefully removing. Hard wiring in gave no room to slide out. All else in back is standard plug in wiring harness. Strange that antenna had no plug. Now installation of new. Fortunately, wiring color codes are same on old Sony and new Sony I'm putting in.

Supposedly sold for 15,063 dollars, but I smell a rat. There's been a lot of classic car scams going on lately.

Our 2006 Avanti came with 17” wheels that were actually for the 2004 Mustang Mach 1 models. They have a lot of miles on them and since I recently put new tires on them, I decided to dress them up a little instead of replacing them. The chrome is getting tired and really looked bad on the inside of the wheel, so I decided to black out the part that you see the most when looking through the rim. The newest trend in wheels is to wrap them for unique patterns/colors, and since I had some extra black carbon fiber wrap, I decided to use that. The other thing was to figure out how much of the inside actually needed blacking out, and I determined that 3” from the back side of the spokes would be sufficient. Also, the diameter of the wheel spoke edge is different than 3” towards the back side of the rim, so wrapping it in 1 piece would end up being more difficult due to the extra curvature. I did a test wrap of about 1/4 of the wheel, 3” deep and it did exactly what I thought it was going to, no good. As I looked at it, I realized that installing or removing wheel weights would also become a problem, so the solution would be to wrap the inside in pieces, with each “joint” being behind the “spokes”. That would solve both problems and if wheel weights were added or removed, I could patch that area much easier. I also used 3M adhesive promoter (primer) to increase the wrap glue strength. A small brush was used to apply it to the area that the wrap pieces were would be placed. So, here we go:

Was wondering if anyone here has had any dealings with the above? Thank you

How is your research coming along for this question? I have a 1985 that I'm tearing down completely and don't need many (if any) parts out of it. That being said this thing sat up to her rocker panels in Mother Nature for quite some time. I'm ditching the whole shebang, no more solid axle, leaf springs, or auto trans. Once I remove things later this season I can take a leaf spring height measurement off the car. How much settling was done on mine? I don't know but my car didn't get driven at all post-1997.

Yep, seat belt light. My '85 has that light in place. Well had, anyway. I'm tearing down for a resto custo mod. But 4174 was a basket case anyhow.

Thanks Grant- much appreciated... I had gotten under there but will be a bit more prepared for what to look for, next time.

The reservoir is attached by two bolts that drop down from the bottom of the reservoir and through the flat firewall that the reservoir sits on. From under the dash on the drivers side, you can reach up and feel the two nuts on the bolts that hold it in place. You can see the nuts if you are double jointed, lying on your back, with your head touching the brake pedal. Once the nuts are removed, the reservoir will pull straight up.....If you think that you may be needing to remove it many times (say to fix a leak that can't be easily fixed) When reinstalling, I used velcro adhesive strips (after covering the two holes in the firewall) and simply attached the tank in that manner. I will come off with not much effort and it will not come off from normal (aggressive) driving.

My 82 model took 3 lbs, so you should be able to do that much.

Not only are the refrigerants different, the lubricating oils in the refrigerant lines to lubricate the compressor are different, too. R12 uses mineral oil. R134 uses polyalkylene glycol (PAG). If you convert from R12 to R134, any parts that are retained for re-use must be thoroughly flushed with an appropriate solvent to remove all the mineral oil, something that will cut and remove the mineral oil without damaging the parts. About 25-30 years ago I converted the A/C system in a 1993 Ford Crown Victoria to R134. The kit came with everything except the evaporator. Since I didn't replace it (buried inside the dashboard) I flushed it with some kind of alcohol and blew out the alcohol with compressed air. I don't remember what alcohol I used. The conversion worked well, and it was still cooling when we sold the car in 2006.

Looks like you can buy the replacement on Ebay, not as expensive as I thought. Happen to know what size the charge is?

Appropos 1981 Avanti II - Can somebody please provide some feedback about how to go about removing the windscreen washer reservoir/bottle. How is it attached? Repainting the engine bay soon so info is very appreciated. I'd hate to bust it. 😒

Screw on service valves are for R12. Most anyone who does a 134 conversion replaces those and the dryer at a minimum when doing a conversion. In a lot of cases the rubber lines need to be replaced as well. Now, that's not to say that some person came up with an adapter to charge 134 through those fittings but I sure wouldn't. R12 and R134 don't mix, you use different A/C gauges to prevent mixing the refrigerant, use the correct fittings and gauge pressures. There use to be some R12 replacement refrigerants available but I don't think those are available anymore. You'd have to call a local parts store and see what they have.

The 5 mph crash requirement was reduced to 2-1/2 mph in 1982 so I believe the original bumper was able to pass that requirement.

I believe it started in 1973, when the 5 mph bumper law became effective. My 74 still has one, though it has been shortened so it doesn't stick out so far. I left it on because at one time I was parking the car on the street pretty frequently. I believe Avanti Motors eventually got a waiver from some of the safety and emissions standards.