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  2. I've finished painting my 1971 Avanti and have replaced the carpets, now I'd like to address the passinger seat foam, the previous owner must have had the driver seat and rear seat foam replaced, they are in great shape and comfortable, but for unknown reasons, the passinger seat was not done. It's foam is flat and crumbly. The vinyl on all of the seats is in great shape. I'd like to try to tackle this problem if I can. I know there are preformed foam seat bottoms and backs on the market, I'm wondering If the seat foam used to make my seats is for a standard GM, Ford or Mopar seat, that I can order. I'm going to try to post a couple of pictures of the left and right seats in hopes that someone will recognize the seat, and can stear me in the right direction. If all else fails I'll try to find an upholstery shop.
  3. Today
  4. Possibly the worker who stamped that engine block previously worked in a factory making signs like the one below,,,
  5. mfg

    Radiator

    Speedway Motors also has a P/N 917347 aluminum radiator that may work for you …$130. ( older price)
  6. mfg

    Radiator

    You might get in touch with Universal Parts (Humbolt, Iowa) for their P/N CR9606 aluminum radiator 19”X 28”…. $140 (older price)
  7. Yesterday
  8. ejdubu

    Radiator

    Thank you! There in lies the problem. Finding a competent shop. I was hoping to be able to find an aluminum replacement.
  9. Depending on what’s wrong with the current radiator it should be able to be recored. Any competent radiator shop can do it.
  10. Stacey

    Radiator

    On my 1991 I pulled the radiator and went to the local radiator rebuilder. He looked and was unable to find the exact one I had, and mine was not leaking but ready for replacement. He ended up buying a slightly larger tube size that still was able to transfer the tanks. So can't tell you what yours is out of but they are rebuildable. The new replacement ran cooler than before, so it was a good upgrade.
  11. ejdubu

    Radiator

    I have a 1889 convertible that is in need of a radiator. Can anyone tell me where this came from?
  12. Last week
  13. Under work bench clean out .... free to a good home .... OEM BU light lenses from 81...... as pictured .... pay shipping ....call Bill 386-466-6434 in Florida
  14. Here is a scan of the relevant page from the shop manual. (assuming I am not breaking any copyright laws)
  15. The gas tank on the Studebaker and early models of the II's is behind the back seat on a shelf; not sure where yours is but, no matter how the gas got in your engine, #1 or #2 above, I'd put a fuel shut off solenoid in the line. I put one in mine; write up is in issue #170, page 48. The solenoid is mounted under the tank and power is fed from the ignition switch. I also placed a keyed, hidden, barrel switch in series that must be in the ON position to be driven but, if in the OFF position and the car is hot wired/stolen, it will be driven only a couple hundred yards. Good luck.
  16. I’ve changed out heater cores on three (?) Avantis, but not lately! Cannot think of anything you’ve missed… but do you have an Avanti workshop manual which you can refer to?
  17. I only use Shell premium gas that, by all accounts, had no ethanol added. But I do use a fuel stabilizer for winter storage. Jim, thanks for the tip on checking the cylinders.
  18. Could be either, but #1 would fill the cylinders with fuel and could cause hydro lock if you crank the engine. I would pull some spark plugs and check for fuel. Good luck, Jim Wood
  19. I came across the original Owner Service Policy and some other original paperwork for 63R2696. Originally sold in LA, Bob Johnstone lists the last owner as Roland Vardon of Ontario, Canada. White, R2, 4spd, 410 TT. I’d be glad to mail the stuff to the current owner if he can be located. Thanks, Mike
  20. #2 happened to me with a Studebaker R1 years ago. Depending on the age of the fuel pump you installed the diaphragm may not be compatible with modern fuels.
  21. While working on the rear sway bar bushings (now completed satisfactorily) the car was tilted forward where the rear was suspended about 18 inches higher than normal for a few weeks as I had to get the new bushings replaced with a larger set. On the last few days of this i noticed a pool of liquid under the front that seemed to be gas/oil. When I dropped the rear end back down, I decided to do an oil change as I could not seem to get a reading on the dip stick. when I removed the oi drain plug, I got a strong steady stream of over 10 litres of liquid, overflowing my oil pan and again covering about 10 sq.ft. of floor....So I have gas in my oil pan and I need to know the cause to fix it. Cause 1: (unlikely but I'll put it out there) the gas flowed through the fuel line into the carb and from there down into the engine. Cause 2: (most probable but it is year and half old fuel pump) The gas flowed through a failure in the bellows of the mechanical fuel pump and entered the oil that way. Given the "fun" I had replacing the last fuel pump I would prefer to get some ideas on diagnostics to determine it that is indeed the fault. Any ideas out there? grant
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