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Everything posted by Avanti83

  1. First thing I would do it to see if the engine turns over by hand with the spark plugs out. Nothing good happen when one rolls an old engine over at cranking speed if it hasn't been turned over by hand first. If it turns over then you can check the starter relay to see if it has voltage to it and then puts voltage to the starter when the key is turned. If it sends voltage to the starter and the starter doesn't turn, hit the starter a few times with a board or light hammer to see if it will engage. If not, remover the starter and bench test it to see if it turns. Some times starters get a few bad spots and won't turn the engine if the armatures sets on them. If you can't get the starter to turn then you have a bad starter. Before you do any of the above clean all the power and ground connections as that's critical on a glass bodied car.
  2. Bill's solution will work very well. What a lot of us do is just drill a couple holes in-line with #5 & #7 plug large enough to get a socket and long extension through. There are various plugs available to fill the holes if you want but most of us just leave the holes open.
  3. This should get you started on how to tell the transmissions apart including some visual clues. https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/2004r-vs-700r4-differences/ I suspect you have a 700R4 in your 83 as mine also came that way from the factory. Mine now has a 2004R with 4:10 rear gears because I found a killer deal on the 200 a number of years back. If you have a 700R4 and want to switch to a 200 you should also plan on new rear gearing as the ones in the 700 are probably in the 2.7 to 3.0 range. Remember the 700 was built to get big heavy cars and trucks moving with 2.7 or so rear gearing so they have a low first gear. IMM, that's not a bad deal as long as you know what you are putting together. A great resource is Bow Tie Transmissions website as they have about all the pertinent info on most GM automatic transmissions over the last 50 years or so. That will let you plan on what you can find and use to put together any combination of drivetrain you may need.
  4. In your spam folder you will see a box to the left of the AOAI email. Select (click) the box and above it will appear the wording "not spam". Click on that and the email will be sent to your mail folder and from then on they should show up in the mail folder.
  5. Summit Racing has a few that will fit but the one that Gunslinger posted is on back order. You could try Jegs and any number of the usual suspects. The center Avanti script add-on were available at most of the Studebaker vendors a while back but have become hard to find lately. I found a set on Ebay a while back. They look like this.
  6. Agree with the aftermarket type but also be aware most new pickups come with scissor jacks and are compact enough to fit under the passenger seat as in the newer Rams. Those should also fit under the Avanti spare assembly also as the crank comes in several pieces. If you don't like prowling wrecking yards, try Ebay. Bob
  7. Most any auto store can supply a universal brake light switch. There are usually the threaded ones I used on mine or a lever action one that can also be used. Threaded - https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/stoplight-switch/p/duralast-stoplight-switch-dr496/116467_0_0
  8. Might be worth posting this over on the SDC forum.
  9. My guess is the problem is the 14" wheel but if you have an early Turner conversion, the brake caliper had a nub that could be ground off if that's what's rubbing. It's pretty easy to start to add washers behind the wheel to see what size spacer is needed but you'll probably need longer studs and also look for tire to body/suspension interference.
  10. If it has the coil in the cap distributor there is a tach connector next to the power wire. Looks like this. https://www.amazon.com/Distributor-1977-1987-1103200-1103203-1103209/dp/B00VV81J6Y
  11. Dan's the correct call. The fronts are the usual suspects from the 63/64 cars unless they have been upgraded to Turner or other aftermarket units but the rear are a combination of parts from later model non-Avanti cars. They could be Chrysler drums and Chevy C-10/Caprice shoes as an example. Also don't forget the master cylinder which could be the cause of most of your issues.
  12. Here's a list of Studebaker vendors. Pay particular attention to Studebaker International, Stephen Allen, and Myers. https://www.studebakervendors.com/ That said, the go-to for all things Avanti is Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors. He bought out all the original Avanti surplus back in the day and has a ton of parts reproduced. He will also spend time on the phone explaining what to do to repair most things Avanti and how to do them. Great resource. Front brakes are Dunlop, rear are a collage of mostly chevy/chrysler parts IIRC, and the bolt circle is 4.5" or 114.3mm. I used 17X9 Mustang wheels from a 2000-2004 on my 74. They are close to the max. Here's my wheel posting from the Studebaker forum a while back. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/110102-mustang-wheels-become-avanti-wheels
  13. This is some comments on how I did mine on my 74. There are a few helpful hints that the earlier install video didn't have. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/108773-avanti-nu-relics-power-window-installation
  14. I don't recall the exact replacement numbers but they are common Automobile bearings and seals. NAPA will have them, just buy good quality brands, drive out the races and replace both bearings and the grease seals. Clean everything up, pack with good high temperature grease and drive like you stole it. Do both sides and check the brake pads for wear while you're in there. Numbers like A6 and A10 bearings come to mind but check for sure.
  15. Looks a lot like my body and frame did when I cleaned them up although yours is a bit more damaged around the front crossmember and mine was more rusty in the rear of the frame and rear crossmember. Keep at it, you'll have a great ride. Enjoying the pictures please keep posting.
  16. Four is better than two but, in reality, the vast majority of SBC's were two bolt and they hold up just fine for the HP levels you were discussing.
  17. Agree with Gunslinger unless you are bound and determined to assemble it yourself. A complete engine rebuild kit for the 350 including crank, cam, pistons all gaskets etc is about $1400 from the usual suspects. You would then need to have your engine cleaned and bored as well as the heads and valves redone. If you want a better cam etc then the costs go up. $3000 will get you started in a crate motor from the same sources. I suggest that you take a look at Jegs or Summit Racing's site and compare the performance level you want between a parts cost for a rebuild and a similiar crate motor and then decide which way to go. Your machinist should be able to give you a ballpark number for the block and head work. I have rebuilt several SBC's because I enjoy doing it and I have the tools and other odds and ends to do so.
  18. Bill Have you thought of mocking one up and laying fiberglass on the pattern to make one. Worked for the cowl induction on my 74. I've watched the folks on Texas Metal do that several times by making a pattern, covering it with flannel and impregnating it with resin. Then using fiberglass for strength and finishing it as they would any body work.
  19. Look the body over carefully after blasting and locate the cracks and other issues. Repair what you need to address and primer the body. If you prime it immediately you may overlook some issues and they won't repair themselves.
  20. Just to be sure, the 3EE battery was used in a number of commercial applications, have you tried tractor etc. dealers about ordering one.
  21. Saturn GM OEM 95-02 Sc2 Radiator Support-air Deflector 21031161
  22. Google's pretty good at that so I'm told. https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Cooling/SOBradiator/sdc42115sobrad.html
  23. I have a passenger's manual window mechanism from my 74, If they are the same, I'll post a couple of shots.
  24. Now that is nasty. I don't have any access to the factory repair but I'd get on the phone to Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors and ask his advice. He would probably also be one of the best sources for the repair panel which would make the job easier. It also looks like some one tried to repair it previously due to the rectangular shape of the cracking at the base of the mechanism. Otherwise, IIWM, I'd probably make an impression of the drivers side area and duplicate it in fiberglass to patch this side. You could also reinforce it with a metal plate if necessary. A second person to ask advice is Brad Bez on this forum or at his business https://www.bezautoalchemy.com/
  25. This is like the wiring harness I used. It's from Speedway motors and I can't buy the wire and parts for the cost of $200 or so. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/22-Circuit-Universal-Automotive-Aftermarket-Wiring-Harness-Kit,229874.html BTW, your radiator and fan setup looks very much like the Cyclone setup in my 74. You're building a nice ride.
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