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Everything posted by Avanti83

  1. Have them look particularly at the driver's side manifold connection. It's a bit of a b--th to fabricate. Here's the one I did on my 74. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/76100-74-avanti-sbc-t-56-2-1-2-exhaust-system-and-undercarriage This is the finished project with 2 1/2" pipes. Your exhaust will be 2" so you'll need to find 2 1/2" manifolds. They are available aftermarket for reasonable dollars. Look for mid-60's Corvette manifolds.
  2. Jim As you know I did my 74 with razor blades and it was not a fun job. Several years ago I bought a used ARE fiberglass topper for my truck that needed a repaint. After much looking I bought a gallon of water based stripper from West Marine. It did a darn good job on the cured base coat/ clearcoat on it. Washes off with water so no bad residue like the Aircraft type strippers. It's made for fiberglass stripping applications. If you want to try it you can buy a quart for about $30 to see how it works. If I had to do the 74 again, I'd use this stuff. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/back-to-nature--aqua-strip-paint-stripper-gallon--4563136?recordNum=1 Good luck, Bob
  3. The down pipe off the manifolds to the mufflers looks stock but the mufflers are not. From the head pipe back it's been replaced.
  4. Considering you said you drive mostly city miles I would think it wouldn't be a problem as most converters lock up around 40 mph IIRC. I do the same thing with my 2004R, just engage the converter lockup switch at highway speeds.
  5. I believe it was 1983. Mine had a 700R4.
  6. This is a copy of the wheel offerings on my 83. Avanti Motors was known to put about anything on the car that a buyer would want but it should be documented on the build sheet which may be available from Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors. This is how mine was equipt from the factory. The wire wheel option on mine were chrome wheels with a separate wire insert and Avanti logo that differs from the above selections. They are also available cheap although not in prime condition. Picture of my 83 with OEM wheels
  7. Those are not OEM. They are made by Ultra wheels model 050/051 as I have them on my 83. Center section just has an Avanti sticker added. I have two in excellent shape if you're interested.
  8. Bill I suspect the fascination with the 200 boils down to 1-size, smaller than the 700 and 2- The 700 has a much lower 1st gear to get heavy cars and trucks rolling with those under 3:00 numerical gears. Personally, Avanti Motors thought the 700 was fine for their cars, my 83 came with one so they can't be that bad. Turner makes a rear brake setup for the Dana but I don't know if it fits the later ones. He says it fits the Fairborn flanged axle set up however. Google up Dana rear disc conversion and you'll see there are a ton of aftermarket suppliers for Jeep rear disc conversions and those should fit Avanti's if they fit similar years. When I rebuilt my 44 in the 1974 I used the rebuild bearing and seal kit from a 72 IH Scout II BTW, -3 F when I got up this morning so sorry to hear about your cold spell. 😉 Missing that great Florida BBQ though. Bob
  9. A little Google goes a long way. https://transmissioncenter.net/shop/swap-to-a-700r4-from-a-th350-th400-200-4r/
  10. I won't disagree if one can keep them in place while removing the original long arms which is not a trivial effort. Been there, done that and have the tee shirt. IAC, eye of the beholder
  11. Isn't adjusting tie rods part of an alignment, toe-in.
  12. Look aftermarket from here. I doubt Avanti Corp would add that cost unless a customer asked and paid for it.
  13. I agree that we have a wealth of knowledge in Dan and the rest of the vendors. The down side is they are all approaching their dotage and there doesn't appear to be many younger folks ready to take up the impending shortfall.
  14. When I did the one's on my 74 I cut the rocker panels off as you can see in this post. The bolts holding the HT's on must be removed from the area inside the car just in front of the rear armrests. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/61575-74-avanti-body-repair-after-hog-troughs#post921298 Here's some thoughts from Bob Johnstone's site on the topic. Be to click on the links under the HT pictures. https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Hogt/troughs07.html Bob's site will have other thoughts on the topic also.
  15. Yes you need to cut out a vertical piece in the door. I don't see how it weakens the door significantly and you end up with a warrantied functional system. I've posted my install before but here it is in case you missed it. Pretty straight forward. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/108773-avanti-nu-relics-power-window-installation?106236-Avanti-Nu-Relics-Power-Window-Installation=
  16. Vinyl (PVC) tubing is made flexible by the addition of plasticizers added during fabrication. There's always a chance they can leach out and cause the problems stated.
  17. I've used Leatherque products to restore my seats on the 83 Avanti. They worked well and will talk to you about what you are trying to achieve and what you are working with. As an aside, I redyed my seats and sent them a patch from under the seats for a color match. They said that was some of the best quality leather they have seen on cars from that era. http://www.leatherique.com/
  18. I used the NuRelics units and they work quite well. Probably less overall than repairing what you have. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/108773-avanti-nu-relics-power-window-installation?106236-Avanti-Nu-Relics-Power-Window-Installation= This is the list of Studebaker Vendors around the country but Bo Markham (Markham Motors) is in central Florida and Steven Allen is near Gainsville. https://www.studebakervendors.com/ I don't know if they can repair yours but they would be worth a call/visit to see if they know anyone locally that can.
  19. I agree that I'd want to look that one over really well. Mixture of pictures from recent to old and it certainly has seen some use/disuse since it was redone. It could be as simple as an interior and paint restoration but even those costs will add up quickly. Be sure to drive it and get it up in the air to see the underside in good light. Good luck in your quest.
  20. On the passenger side of the block toward the front of the engine where the bottom of the head meets the block there will be a pad with numbers/letters stamped into it unless the block has been surfaced. Those will help decode the source of the engine. Those plus a picture of the carb/injection setup will help.
  21. Post a picture of your engine with the air cleaner off. I believe GM only supplied EFI in the cross fire tbi engines in this era. If you have a single tbi or tpi setup it's probably not the original engine. My point remains, if you have a computer you have a diagnostics port under the dash. Use it to diagnose your system.
  22. On my 83 the carb was an electronic unit that the ECM controlled. There should be a OBD port under the dash to access the codes that the computer finds. You may also be able to read them by shorting a couple contacts. You can find that procedure with Google but a reader is cheap on line or at auto stores for those early systems. The computer system is essentially an add on to the regular harness. I ripped that portion out and used a carb and distributor initially but before you go that far read the codes, even these early ecm's can tell you if there a bad input/sensor in the system.
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