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About Ntenna

  • Rank
    AOAI Forum Member
  • Birthday 11/24/1950

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Suffolk, VA
  • Interests
    Historic and performance automobiles.

Previous Fields

  • My Avanti
    1963 63R-1454

Recent Profile Visitors

283 profile views
  1. This is perfect! Exactly what I needed to confirm the hookup. Many thanks. John H.
  2. Anybody have or know a location on-line for the schematic for the 5 wire wiper-washer kit harness? This is the one to the foot pedal switch. I get the red and yellow leads, it’s a simple plug in-line deal, and the white push-on ground, no problem. It’s the blue and black wires I’d like to confirm. Research at Bob Johnstone’s site as well as talking with Jon Myer and Dan Booth indicates they probably get piggy-backed on the existing blue and black wires at the switch, but old postings here had differing information. Must have been a schematic in the original kit but mine’s missing. Thanks.
  3. While you are finding/fixing the "magic loop" in the intake manifold, you can rig up a heat source for your choke by running a pipe down to the passenger side exhaust manifold, and use a piece of aluminum to shroud the manifold so it collects some heat. bend the pipe back up and use rubber hose at some point to go back to the air cleaner or carb nipple, and you will have a heat source for the choke just like 60's era Fords (!). Should get that choke to open up for now.....
  4. An LED dual-contact bulb inside the original housing/socket is a compromise, if that's what you are looking for. Looks original, lights up the trunk much better than the original incandescent. Did that on ours and can see the whole trunk now.
  5. Pretty much yes. Since it mounts on fiberglass you may want a dual contact socket for hot and ground separate from the shell, event though you can make a single contact housing and bulb work by grounding the shell to the ground wire. On the dual pin housing, pin orientation is important, bayonets to the two contacts.
  6. In search of set of door panels, and rear arm rests/quarters early Avanti Stude and Avanti II. Just need solid foundations. This can even be a pay it forward, or back. I just want to build these sections for a faster swap to keep it on the road. Thanks!
  7. Have seen this before as a quick by-pass to the ballast resistor to work-around original wiring issues, so the coil gets full 12V on start only. Following Brad's thoughts, if it starts easily - just remove. And yes, they were rarely fused and were prone to burn up. At least they only had power when the starter was engaged.
  8. Sounds good, Brad. Planning on the same. When I cut the vertical run and pulled the horizontal vent line out, I found the copper pipe was cut too long at the factory, and the flex line going up into the 1/4 panel was crimped shut against the copper pipe. Been folded over since new. Plus now cracked at the top of the U and tank coupler. If anyone has issues with the tank spitting back while fueling, there's the problem. This one did, and it will hopefully now do it less or not at all. Pictures coming.
  9. Avanti production began almost 60 years ago. Since then cars have received total restoration, been totaled and everything in-between. If you haven't checked your fuel lines recently, look at these photos. This is not only the main tank feed over the axle, but the return and vent hoses behind the rear seat. They pretty much tell the story. Getting that vent line upper U-turn out and replaced is really fun. And this is a good running, show-level R-2. A failed pump diaphragm started me replacing everything. IMG_1661.MOV
  10. There must be two out there somewhere! 😉
  11. Hi, Rob - if you would be willing to part with one, please pm me off forum at ntenna@me.com. I will still have a fairly good one which can be used for repro or plated. Thank you, John H.
  12. Ntenna


    Thanks Jim. Very good to know. J
  13. Ntenna


    Thanks Ed. That's what I used 17 years ago on our '57 Hawk building an R2 Avanti clone engine (actually a '63 Lark Daytona block, late model Paxton 6-7 pounds, AFB, cast headers). It has been dry all these years and 25,000-some miles. Looking at the gaps from the side, I'm very sure they used the thin head gaskets on this Avanti. Not my rebuild; we've all been there. Like you, I hate to pull it down, but I'm not too keen on coolant block sealer, either. The drip from the coolant leak is about once every 30 seconds cold, about every 10 seconds hot. This block was hot-tanked in 2017; I have the
  14. Consider an induction heater as an option to torch heat. They are available from multiple tool sources. Combined with ATF/acetone mix, you have the best chance at success.
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