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Leo B

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Everything posted by Leo B

  1. Im thinking to change to Dual. Is this simple solution? https://avantiparts.biz/dual-master-cylinder-conversion-kit/
  2. Width 198 mm = 7.80 inc Length 186 mm = 7.33 inc In the picture you can see how the measurements were taken.
  3. This is the original. I'll give you the measurements. Please wait.
  4. Part number for 1963 is 1556919 If you dont find the filter you can do it yourself. Its aluminium mesh. Same kind like "cooker hood grease filter mesh". Very simple. https://www.studebaker-info.org/Avanti/ASM/avantishopclimatizer/avantishopclimatizer.html
  5. I found this: Louis Schucart - AOAI - 01 Aug 2018 Go to Super Bright LED website and order red LED replacements. The are red and bright and better visibility than incandescent bulbs. Order Red Lights https://www.superbrightleds.com/catalog/product/view/id/204234/+color-Amber+packamt-10-Pack
  6. This is why the AOAI exists 👍😊
  7. Thank you South Shore Motors. I'm going a little off topic. I also want to highlight the images used in the sale. I have often wondered about sales announcements where there is a car for sale for example over $60,000 or even more, but the pictures are bad and taken with a cell phone. I have recommended that in these cases you should clean and polish the car well and use a professional who has good cameras and knows how to photograph the car and the details. If this costs a few hundred dollars or even a thousand, it's worth it. You get even more back (with experience). Pictures and information are the only things the buyer sees in the online store.
  8. It is really difficult to show the colors of cars in photos. Especially in digital photography and and taken with phone. The only way to try to get close to the actual correct color is to adjust the image so that the original object is same time visible. The difficulty is highlighted especially in iridescent colors, which are greatly affected by light. My Avanti Gray looks way too blue in the latest Avanti magazine photos. I don't know if the color shade of the BAT Avanti Gray is correct, but I remember that there were many pictures of that car and the shade was different in different pictures. Of course, it's a matter of opinion, but some colors go well with one car and some with another. It's about the whole design. Often the original is the right one because it also describes the history of the vehicle which will remain for the next generation. In attached photo you should see quite well Avanti Gray. A bluish gray with a hint of purple. Edit: It should also be noted that the lowres jpg compressed image changes from the original, and on top of that, we each have our own uncalibrated screen.
  9. Thank you South Shore Motors. I think now that 4-speed and Auto share same harness. I can leave them where they are and connect Back-Up Switch when I got that. 🙏
  10. Thank you regnalbob.👍 SI sells these to Standard Trans. This means that three speed T-10 is standard. Didnt think that.🤔
  11. https://www.ebay.com/p/12035977534?iid=195629011825 I have 4-speed. Please show or explain where they are situated. 2 pcs. I dont find part 197565 from Catalogue.
  12. Please help. My 4-Speed T-10 missing Back-Up (reverse) Light Switch. I have just bracket. Need to buy new switch. Stude is originalty 4-speed . What are these wires? I havent test yet but I guess #1 is for Back-UP Light Switch. Are #2 and #3 for Automatic? Neutral Switch and Shift lamp?
  13. It should be stiff when you try to pump by hand. The main reason for the breakdown of pumps is a broken diaphragm. Another reason is a leak, allowing air to enter. The third reason is that the fuel lines are blocked. I have also new pump (R2) and works well. Before installing the pump, check if the fuel line is open between the pump and the carburetor. Also check if the line is open in the carburetor as well. I'm assuming fuel gets to the pump without air. When you attach the connectors to the pump, use a pipe lock. I use Loctite 542 thread sealant for fine metal threads, especially for hydraulic pipes. Of course, you can also use other recommended thread seal. Edit: When I repair mechanics, I first look at the whole solution and what factors affect the solution and thus the problem. I would approach it step by step. 1. does the pump get fuel? 2. is fuel coming out of the pump? 3. does fuel also enter the carburettor (into the floats)? 4. does the fuel transfer to the intake manifold? 5. possible leaks.
  14. R2 https://www.nostalgicmotorcars.net/store/p113/Fuel_Pump%2C_1963-64_Studebaker_Avanti.html#/ R1 https://www.nostalgicmotorcars.net/store/p114/Fuel_Pump%2C_1963-64_Studebaker_Avanti.html#/ Edit: I just noticed that you solved the problem. I did not read all comments. 👍
  15. I have to admit. It looks great in the picture.👍
  16. Avanti Gray is an iridescent color and contains blue and purple. I think only Black or Metallic Red will go with it. Metallic Red is quite dark and shiny and forms a good balance with iridescent Avanti Gray and Fawn. Orange is too yellow, bright and warm and works well with a warm white car. I would trust what professional designers have once planned.
  17. The old trick with motorcycles: inject oil with a syringe and a thin needle that fits between the shell and the cable. This way you can lubricate the entire cable.
  18. As I understand it, the gauge and the sensor/sender are pairs. If the motor is different but same gauge, water, volts and wires, I can't find an explanation why the sensor has to be different in terms of resistance. I have a 1963 and a SW G2. Seems you have a similar gauge, I think you need the same level of resistance in the sensor. I can't say if Stude and Chevy differ in sensor attachment or external aspects. I recommend to call or email https://mystudebaker.com/electric/tachometer-temperature-senders/ I think they know what they sell. #1545220 for your gauge ??? Also note that might be you gauge is not working well.
  19. No. I was trying to make the case that the resistors/senders on the Studebaker Avanti are different than the Avanti II, even though the gauge looks the same. It amazed me. I apologize if I presented the matter unclearly.
  20. 1513321 is GM Gauge Sender Unit. For Studebaker https://mystudebaker.com/electric/tachometer-temperature-senders/
  21. To me looks like you have same as mine 1963 Stewart Warner: From Studebaker Forum: https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/1822086-resistance-range-for-engine-coolant-temperature-sensor More: https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Text3/temperature_gauge.txt Was 1965- > different gauge?
  22. Hi, I threw over year ago old temperature sensor when I rebuilt engine and ordered new sensor. Dont remember from where but from Stude part Vendor or Rockauto anyway. Intalled that and my water temperature Gauge does not work. With zero resistance shows maximum so technically ok. a) I measured sensor resistance and ohm meter shows water boiling temperature 170 Ohms. Is this correct? b) I found article that Stude Avanti sensor should be in boiling water about 56-58 Ohms. I this correct #1545220? Did Steward Warner Gauge in Avanti 1963 use a) or b) version sensor? Edit... Seems I found the answer. S/W Gauge is for 33 – 240 Ohms. b) Sensor #1545220 should be correct. a) Dont know which one I have. Looks very same. https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Text3/temperature_gauge.txt
  23. Mine is in parts. I hope I can help. https://www.nostalgicmotorcars.net/uploads/1/2/4/8/124888690/heatercoreaoai193.pdf
  24. https://www.nostalgicmotorcars.net/store/p7/Avanti_Wheel_Cover_N.O.S.1963-1985_SET_of_4.html#/
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