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Everything posted by Ntenna

  1. Ratios are different, 1:22 for manual box and 1:16 for the power box. Just something to be aware of, because the 1:16 with no power assist will be quick but pretty heavy for parking. That said, I have the manual parts. PM if interested.
  2. All helpful information. If you want first-hand experience info, speak to Jon Myer at 740-674-4897 USA east-coast afternoons. He has done many of the s-series carbs and can help with special tweaks, jetting, upgrades, ETC.
  3. Mfg is right. “When you lose even one ball, replace all”. And the races. Check all sizing for tolerance. Then you can expect a much longer life. It also helps substantially if the oil is cooled externally. Talk to Jon Myer about that. One of ours has made it 20 years and 25,000 miles that way.
  4. Easy test is remove gas cap. Watch fuel bowl. Carb is of course under pressure but vent is too - so it is possible to have rising blower pressure reduce fuel flow. Of course, pressure line from blower to Jet-Thrust manual pump is intended to overcome that. It will not help if main fuel line is plugged, or has a pin-hole reducing vacuum. You may want to consider a close look at all steel line for tiny rust holes especially under coil spring protected areas and rubber hoses by the electric pump and rear filter. Tiny cracks there will do what is happening to your car. And finally check tank output elbow, add fuel screen if not equipped. Fuel will not necessarily be visibly leaking and the line can still fail to allow full suction.
  5. Recently took R-1454 down to original firewall padding, heater out. Remnants of solid black carpet matched the original build sheet and born report for this Avanti Gold, fawn and elk car with deluxe, not regal interior; often the last pieces of the original carpet are pinched between the heater and the firewall pad above the accelerator.
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