Jump to content

Ntenna

AOAI Forum Members
  • Posts

    58
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Ntenna

  1. Ratios are different, 1:22 for manual box and 1:16 for the power box. Just something to be aware of, because the 1:16 with no power assist will be quick but pretty heavy for parking. That said, I have the manual parts. PM if interested.
  2. All helpful information. If you want first-hand experience info, speak to Jon Myer at 740-674-4897 USA east-coast afternoons. He has done many of the s-series carbs and can help with special tweaks, jetting, upgrades, ETC.
  3. Mfg is right. “When you lose even one ball, replace all”. And the races. Check all sizing for tolerance. Then you can expect a much longer life. It also helps substantially if the oil is cooled externally. Talk to Jon Myer about that. One of ours has made it 20 years and 25,000 miles that way.
  4. Easy test is remove gas cap. Watch fuel bowl. Carb is of course under pressure but vent is too - so it is possible to have rising blower pressure reduce fuel flow. Of course, pressure line from blower to Jet-Thrust manual pump is intended to overcome that. It will not help if main fuel line is plugged, or has a pin-hole reducing vacuum. You may want to consider a close look at all steel line for tiny rust holes especially under coil spring protected areas and rubber hoses by the electric pump and rear filter. Tiny cracks there will do what is happening to your car. And finally check tank output elbow, add fuel screen if not equipped. Fuel will not necessarily be visibly leaking and the line can still fail to allow full suction.
  5. Recently took R-1454 down to original firewall padding, heater out. Remnants of solid black carpet matched the original build sheet and born report for this Avanti Gold, fawn and elk car with deluxe, not regal interior; often the last pieces of the original carpet are pinched between the heater and the firewall pad above the accelerator.
  6. In our early ‘63, it’s one long cable front to rear but it feeds on the outside of the fiberglass divider behind the rear seat cushions and over the left wheel well. So the rear cushions come out and you have to feed it under the carpet and along the driver’s side of the console.
  7. Ntenna

    Springs

    Pepper Knight (if I am remembering correctly) had “variable rate” front springs made which have varied coil spacing narrowed at the top. Since I had to get rid of a set of heated and collapsed springs on R-1454, I looked at HD, NOS and Pepper’s springs. Went with Pepper’s and a 7/8” sway bar. Do not regret it in the slightest. Ride and control are both excellent and stance is good, with very slight over-steer. In the rear, lowering blocks were removed and a local shop rebuilt and re-arched the springs to offset for the eliminated blocks, and the u-bolts and spacers were replaced. The rear sway bar was upsized as well, the traction rod bushings replaced with urethane, springs with new standard bushings. Result: sits level, stance is good, and rear behaves very well, no hop, no skitter, solid ride without jarring. There are many approaches to suspension tuning; wishing you results you are pleased with.
  8. Glad you got hooked up. I run the AMR VR470 Salt Flats, very similar. With the right tires it’s a good look.
  9. Have you tried a vendor, such as Jon Myer or Bob Ziff? They usually have Turner kits in stock.
  10. You might consider a vented cap in the meantime. Filling the tank easily might be your main challenge. If this is an R-1 there isn’t a recirculation issue anyway, and with a vented cap you would not have a suction issue with the tank, or getting gas to the carb.
×
×
  • Create New...