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Yes, both new round and square headlight covers are made exactly like the originals, but with better quality glass. Available from Endurance Built Products: https://endurancebuiltproducts.com https://endurancebuiltproducts.com/products/ols/products/headlight-glass-lens-64-85-square They also sell new headlight glass rubber gaskets too.

Thanks Leo! Great garage companions!

Leo, if you have a local radiator repair shop, most should be able to fix your tank and maybe even would take out the dents too.

Here is the full picture of the reproduced tanks from the Studebaker International website

Rob, just do what 64StudeAvanti said, run the puller tight by hand and then use the hammer to pound on the ears to tighten further. The, hit the end of the puller, followed by more hits on the handle, and it will eventually pop off. Sometimes it takes multiple blows with the hammer. DO NOT use an air impact gun. When the hub/drum assembly comes off the axle shaft, the key will either come out in the groove of the hub, or will stay in the groove of the axle shaft. Just make sure you note it's position and install it the same way, like the manual says. When you reinstall the hub and drum assembly, slide it on the axle shaft with the key in the groove, then put the nut on and tighten the nut to, I believe 170 lb.ft., then align the hole for the cotter pin, if needed just a bit tighter. Torque of the axle nut seats the hub on the axle. No need to press it on. That is what the axle nut does as you tighten it to 170 lb.ft.

There is an article on dash pad replacement earlier this year in Avanti Magazine Issue 189 Spring/Summer 2020. These dashes are made from the original molds and the same procedures and material The cost is around $2,000, about the same as Just Dashes in Southern California, but are made from original molds. You will reuse your instruments and instrument overlay. The article is several pages long and very detailed for every step.

I think I've heard about others using a slide hammer, but the 5lb probably would not work well. Those hubs are on the axle very tight.

Swaged is just the way the drum is attached to the hub so they stay together. The hub puller takes the hub and drum off together

Yes, this would have at least broke the drum, and maybe you too! 🤯 The hub pullers I mention above are actually pulling on the hub and NOT the drum. The brake drum is swaged onto the studs that are pressed into the hub. In order to separate the hub and drum assemble, the swaged on each stud has to be cut, then the drum can come off the studs.

Heyrob, Not only Studebaker used tapered axle shafts, other cars used this too, American Motors, for one. In fact, some (if not all) Jeeps used tapered axle shafts at least through the 1970s, maybe longer.

Me and others have always referred to this tool as a brake drum puller 😇, because that is what we used it for, but it technically is a hub puller.

Before you try to remove the rear brake drums, the drums and hubs fit tightly on a tapered axle shaft, and to remove the hub and drum, you HAVE to use a brake drum puller that attaches with three jaws to three lug bolts. First remove the cotter key and the big axle nut, then put the axle nut on backwards to just protect the last few threads on the axle shaft. after attaching the brake drum puller onto three wheel studs and tightening lug nuts onto those studs, tighten the drum puller onto the center of the axle shaft with the axle nut on backwards, and then you can use a big hammer to strike the cross at the end of the threaded puller. You will NOT remove the hub and drum assembly without one of these tools. Without the tool, you will probably destroy the drum, hub and probably the end of the axle shaft too. Hopefully you have an Avanti workshop manual that will show the proper way to both remove drums/hubs, and especially how to install them back onto the axle shaft. There is a tapered keyway just past the threads on the end of the axle shaft, and if installed wrong, can also damage the hub or axle shaft. Here is one type of drum puller I like, made by Snap On, I've found these on eBay often, usually for around $100. Summit Racing catalog has new OTC hub pullers that should work too: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-7394?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjw4KyJBhAbEiwAaAQbE3ajVDdtsajKrQcgFmmPet6xT30aHiqCLWHR5SMuaRgk04wboeivXhoCFG8QAvD_BwE As for your front wheels not turning, the disk brake pads/calipers are probably stuck or rusted to the rotor. Since the wheels are off, you probably should at least remove the pads from both front wheels, and if the are too hard to remove, just take the whole caliper off. Snap-on: OTC from Summit:

Check with Phil Harris at Fairborn Studebaker in Ohio.

The shift linkage is probably rusty and/or the lever could be rusty too. Easiest way to check that the transmission is out of park is to get under the car, and disconnect the rod coming from the shift linkage to the lever on the driver's side of the transmission circled in red in the photo, and then move the lever two clicks back, which should be neutral. Actually even moving the lever one click back (or more) releases the parking pawl in the transmission and should let the car roll forward or backwards. The shift rod is attached to the lever with a cotter key. From the looks of the car's wheels, it looks like you will need a sturdy tow strap to pull the car out of its covered shed, then winch it onto a trailer. Where in Texas is it located now?

Rather than get something of unknown source or quality, Avanti vendor and advertiser in Avanti Magazine and Turning Wheels Dave Thiebeault sells aluminum bodied electronic ignition distributors for the Avanti.