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John C

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  • My Avanti
    1963 R4583

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  1. Hello, Google Aardvark Racing www.2002parts.com He has been rebuilding and selling parts for Recaros for years. I've purchased parts from them in the past and been very satisfied. Good luck with it! John C.
  2. Hello Leo, Search for Strange engineering gear ratio calculator, they have a calculator to do this. Plug in your tire diameter, RPM, and speed with a final drive of 1:1 (no overdrive) and it will calculate it. It's very accurate. Good luck with it! John C.
  3. Hi there Javier B, I don't think you will find anything specific to the Avantis regarding 134a conversion but if it were mine this is what I would do. I would keep the existing condensor if it has a drier change it if you can find one that readily fits if not leave it. Change the TXV at the evaporator it should have some numbers you can cross reference. If there is a filter screen in the liquid line entering the firewall remove it, clean it, reinstall it. Some systems had it some not, i don't know about the 81 Avantis. Flush the system as you get sections opened up and tape the line ends to keep everything clean. Button the system up, put the proper amount of PAG oil in the compressor, do a pressure test with a little 134a, 40-50 psi will work. If you don't feel you have any leaks dump the 134a and pull the deepest vacuum you can (use a good pump). Then charge the system with 134a. I think you will be satisfied with the results. Access to the evaporator is always a challenge! Best of luck with it, John C.
  4. I ordered a set of the Halibrand reproduction wheels from Pat at Real Rodders on 5/1/20 and called him on 12/7/20 since then crickets! I don't know if they will ever be produced. More than a little disappointing. John C.
  5. Hello Ed, I just tried this fix because my flywheel has a well worn spot. On step #7 I left the washer in. I measured the travel on the bendix before and after and I gained a full 3/16 of an inch of travel. I think if you leave the washer out you may gain a little more. It seems to work very well and it will serve me well until I pull the tranny (automatic) to reseal it and replace the ring of teeth. Thanks for posting the service bulletin it was a big help. Thanks again, John C.
  6. Hello, I know this post is a little old but if you still have the bumpers would you mind sending me some photos and let me know what you would like for them. You can email me at jechristeson@yahoo.com. I'm in Indiana but I could have them picked up. Thanks,John C.
  7. Hello Leo, I purchased an SN60 from Nimesh Solanki (he goes by Mike). It was totally rebuilt looks new and runs great. Mike is located in Georgia and he sells some Stude blower parts on Ebay under "nimesh". He is good to deal with and does a quality rebuild. He may be able to help you. You can contact him through Ebay or you can PM me on the forum or call me @ 812-229-5915 and I can give you his phone number. Good Luck with the car. John C.
  8. Thanks Kodjo for the cleaning information I can see it makes a big difference. I plan on taking the gauges apart so this will help. I have already drilled two holes (gauge diameter) in apiece of 3/4inch oak to set on my bench and help hold the gauges while you work the rings off. I'll give your method a try and see what the result is. Wish me luck. Thanks, John C.
  9. Hello everyone, The instrument lighting on my 63 has always left a lot to be desired. At night I can barely read any gauges with the stock bulbs. I have experimented with red and white LED bulbs and don't feel they made a marked improvement. I wondered if anyone had tried repainting the reflective coating on the inside of the gauges,what the result was, and where I could find a supplier for that type of paint? My next question concerns the front and rear crankshaft seals. What is the best type to use and where are they available? I'm sure some of you have dealt with these items before and just what you had good luck with. Thanks for the input, John C.
  10. Hello Norm, A fiend of mine used to repair C1 Corvette steering wheels and they looked new when done. They would commonly break where the spoke met the rim. He would cut the plastic away from the rim with a hacksaw then clean the broken area, and TIG weld it back together. He then used PC7 Epoxy to fill and reshape the area, file and sand it to its original contour. Then it was painted to the desired color. He did dozens of them and never had any issues. Many of them went on award winning cars. It will take some work but it is very doable. Good luck and I hope this helps, John C.
  11. Thanks to everyone for your thoughts on the subject. Perhaps I should have added a little more information in the beginning. The car Is a 63 and it has a 7/8 inch sway bar on the front and a stock 5/8 inch bar on the rear. From the input I have seen I think I will install a heavier rear bar and possibly some performance shocks before I go to the quick steer arms. Does anyone know who can supply the heavier rear sway bars? Thanks John C.
  12. Hello all, I am considering installing the quick steer arms on my Avanti. It currently has stock power steering and I think it feels a little over compensated. My question is are the quick arms shorter than stock and if so about how much? I'm sure many others have installed them, could you tell me your thoughts on how it affects the steering. Thanks for your input, John C
  13. If memory serves me well the working time was longer than stated on the product, and that was a plus. Be sure to get any glaze off of the glass, keep it clean and I think you will be very happy. Good luck with your project, John C.
  14. I used Evercoat In 1984 on my 62 Vette. I glued the lower nose on, a few bonding strips and repairs. I still drive the car regularly it has lacquer paint and no cracks or issues of any kind. Highly recommended. John C.
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