64studeavanti

Studebaker International is showing them for $299.95. Confusing is that the sale ended 4/27.

I believe we are discussing 2 different things. A tapered axle has a separate hub that is affixed to the axle via a key and nut. For flanged axles, the hub is part of the axle. It seems like you are talking about a tapered seal?

Are you sure about the tapered axles? I believe all Avanti IIs and later used flanged axles.

Sometimes dieseling can be caused by the throttle plates not closing all the way. Could be cause of hard starting as well.

There is also some anti rattle goop.

You could probably have the slots cut. I assume that Studebaker did that. I don't know why the difference, I assume the engineers knew what they were doing. As far as aluminum, If you can find one, Lionel Stone cast one. Sometimes there were machining problems and they needed welding and remachining. If you go onto the SDC website, Jeff Rice, who goes by DeepNHock, makes adapters to use other manifolds.

The intake casting number of 15557144 does not necessarily indicate the correct intake manifold. R1 intakes have the same casting number. The difference is the R1 does not have the transfer slots. The first picture is R1 manifold. R2 and other Studes have slots similar to the ones in picture 2 of an older WCFB manifold.

Here are some pictures of Avanti water manifold. Casting number is 1555738.

You need to check the casting numbers of the heads. If they end in 570, you would nave too much compression for S/C. IIRC, the R2 heads end in 582. Water pump manifold for Avanti R1 is the same as for R2. The standard Stude water manifold if quite different.

All full flow blocks are the same. You can have a stock cam ground to R1/R2 specs. You could even do the Isky ST5 or R2+ grind. Hopefully, you do have a full flow block. Having the Avanti oil pan and breather tube is a plus as these are getting hard to come by. The R2 AFB intake is the same for all engines except for R1. Crank, rods etc are the same for all 289 engines. You should be able to go .060 over on the cylinders giving 299 C.I. to go larger, you should get the block sonic tested. The heads are the same as low compression trucks of the same vintage. The exhaust valves and the v

Since you are not staying original, it would be more cost effective to replace the drive train with SBC or LS, Tremac trans and Ford 9" R/A.

If you mean the one and only long grill for a 63, I have a spare.

I live just North of Parrish on 301. Send me a list and I will check to see what I have.

Roy, where are you located? If near either Tampa FL or Crossville TN, I may be able to help with parts, encouragement, and/or expertise.

The suggestion that California required an additional letter because the serial number is too short does not make sense. My Los Angeles destined car is 63R4551 with an 'A' added to the serial plate. In mid 63, Studebaker dropped the year designation from the serial number. The ones with the year designation had a 7 character serial number. The later ones only had 5. There must be another reason for the addition of the letter.