Jump to content


AOAI Forum Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Previous Fields

  • My Avanti

Recent Profile Visitors

1,155 profile views

64studeavanti's Achievements


Rookie (2/14)

  • First Post Rare
  • Collaborator Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges



  1. If it is R3, the casting number on the large port heads is 1555479.
  2. R3 would have reliefs cut into the block for the valves.
  3. IIRC, the quiet tone exhaust system from Studebaker had the H crossover pipe and resonators as well as oval mufflers. Not sure what the mufflers were packed with, but I believe they were of a straight thru design.
  4. I use the Hagerty valuation tool as a guide. Condition really matters. Driver quality cars are worth much less than show. Most owners believe their car is in better condition than it really is. Assuming a good condition #3 driver, about $30,000 is the ball park. For driver cars, the paint color probably does not detract much. The wheels are another matter. Original Halibrands may not be in the best of condition. Magnesium does not hold up well. Repro aluminum ones cost around $350 each a few years ago. That was without the spinners.
  5. The one on ebay will not work on 63,64 Studebaker Avantis. It is for the later IIs with Chevrolet engine.
  6. According to Bob Johnstone's web site, the 976 heads have 58 CCs vs the almost 68 CCs of the correct 582 heads. You would need to compute the static CR to ensure it is not more than 9:1. GH did use the 976 heads with S/C, however, they had dished pistons, not flat tops.
  7. As near as I can tell, someone replaced the base with a carb from a 63 Buick 425. The 2A would indicate Jan of 1962 date code.
  8. Just the opposite. The bearings were replaced with bushings.
  9. With a hub puller, you run it up tight by hand, then with a dead blow hammer you pound on the ears to tighten further. After that, you whack the end of the puller to loosen the hub. If not successful at first, you tighten some more. Some have good luck getting the puller as tight as possible, then letting it sit for a bit. Please remember to put the nut so the threads of the axle are covered, that way you do not bugger them. Ensure that the adjusters are completely backed off and that the emergency brake cables are fully released. This should allow the shoes to separate from the drum. In case the shoes are frozen to the drum, lightly tapping on the side of the drum may loosen them. This is only for rear brakes. The front discs come off by removing the cotter pin and nut.
  10. The biggest difference is the advance curve. If that is adjustable, it should work just fine. Many owners replace the prestolite dist with delco from non Avanti Stude.
  11. Studebaker International has/had a replacement 160 mph faceplate listed.
  12. You might want to look at rear brakes. After sitting that long, it is likely that they are frozen solid.
  13. Also check the windshield frame and a pillars, especially under the windshield reveal molding on the sides of the windshield. Quite often these items are completely rusted away. They can be replaced, but at a substantial cost.
  • Create New...