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Jred

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  • My Avanti
    1970 RQAo392

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  1. While dropping off the tach thee owner of the shop, speedo55check.com, shared with me that the sending unit is the same as what Dodge used in 1963-1966. For what it’s worth. I went with just updating the tach rather than keep things original. https://www.ebay.com/itm/123598190748?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=g7J_inXXQMO&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=t39zGBH1SlW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
  2. Finally got around to pulling out the tachometer and the sending unit. Found a place somewhat local to me in Los Angeles that will update the internals to run with out the original sardine can sending unit. What kind of wiring will I need to do while installing the updated tach? New territory for me. I’m keeping the points distributor btw.
  3. For prosperity sake... TIMKEN LM67048/LM67010 & Timken (LM11949/LM11910) I also found some ford grease seals on ebay. Thanks @regnalbob The bearings from Napa said MFG in the USA on the box along side a "made in China"
  4. Thanks @Gunslinger and @wildfelr
  5. Will do. Thanks @Gunslinger
  6. Here’s a picture of the crack. Definitely could be into the fiberglass
  7. Thanks AD, luckily that’s what I ended up ordering along with some seals. The parts are expected at the local Napa next week. The previous owner installed the turner brake upgrade.
  8. I’m reading through all the “rake” threads and I think I’ll try cutting down new coils to lower the front a smidge but Silverstude’s last comment here, caught my eye. My 1970 Avanti II with a sbc350 came with stress cracks in the paint, not in the fiberglass that I can see, on the fenders near the firewall. Is this somewhat common in Avanti II’s. There’s no modifications to the spacers that I can tell and the previous owners weren’t the modification types.
  9. Slight grinding coming from front wheel so Im figuring its the wheel bearing. What bearing kits are recommended? Is Napa an option or is this going to be a specific Studebaker supplier part? The car in question is a 1970 I haven't seen any how to write ups so Im assuming its a pretty straight forward process. Ive only been into various 80/90's 4x4 front hubs. Ill peel ope the FSM in bit for a gander.
  10. I like sensible way of thinking.
  11. Thanks all. Another friend suggested checking to see if its a 4 or 2 bolt. He mentioned that the 4 bolts from 1970 are good for building.
  12. I have a 1970 Avanti II with the original sbc350 in it. 65,000 miles. A few months back I replaced a freeze plug that was leaking on the passenger side. That was easy to get to, just behind the starter. Today a freeze plug started leaking but this one is on the driver side just behind the motor mount. as far as I can tell, I’ll have to pull the motor to replace that plug. During the last plug removal I noticed a good amount of build up in the water jacket of the block. I back flushed the block but I know there’s more in there. Seeing that the driver side plug is now going, and considering the various oil leaks from the front and back of the engine… I’m considering a full rebuild as opposed to a simple reseal. I’d like to perform as much as possible of the rebuild myself, taking the block to the local machine shop for machining. while I’m at it upgrading the internals to run on modern gas and maybe give it few more HPs. this would be my first engine rebuild. What suggestions might you all have? Edit: about a year or so I installed an aluminum intake and had the Rochester 4 barrel rebuilt thanks, Jason
  13. I called Nostalgic Motors and one of the guys in the shop said they use Vintage air. Even gave me some of the parts numbers but I cant seem to locate the notes at the moment. Might want to give Nostalgic Motors a ring for some advice.
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