brad

I use Autolite Platinum AP85. Champions are now China sourced, and quality is non-existent.

Those holes (without the plugs) are to let boost into the passageways to equalize boost pressure from the throttle plate bores to outside the bores of the throttle shaft, so it doesn't push fuel out the throttle shaft.

It's in the mail now...Shipped it out Friday.

How about dual 4s AND supercharged?

Edelbrock 74-47 with the orange step up springs (4" hg) work great. order from Summit. I also use a little leaner jet, a .98 instead of the stock 101. 93 secondary jets.

The doors have to be closed for the inside lock knob to be able to lock the door. From the outside, only the key locks the doors.

There should be a hole in the movable arm, and the mounting bracket. loosen the hold down bolts, and pit a drill or pin to line up the holes, then tighten the hold down bolts. That should in theory get you there.

I sent one to Switzerland a few years ago, the only metric gauge was the speedometer. oil was still PSI, and temp was Fahrenheit.

You can get them installed wrong on the opposite sides, so keep track of which is which. After the crank part is installed, then the center idler plate is screwed to the door with the three very short bolts. Anything longer will hit the transfer arm that was bent and bind it up. Then crank the regulator all the way to the top, and then line up the forward bolt of the short track. then reach in and push on the short track to line up the 2nd bolt hole. If you try to do it with the regulator down, the spring pressure is much greater, and injury is more possible. What you want is the spring to wind up and exert more pressure as the window is lowered. That counterbalances the weight of the glass and frame.

Any diaphragm spring clutch will be far easier to depress, and hold better than the old Borg & Beck stock clutch. Most woll require a modification to the bellhousing to clear the pressure plate. You have to grind away the interior "bumps". but other than that it's a bolt in good modification and far easier on linkage parts.

Each and every instrument has to be removed from the back side to remove the dash overlay.

I used a retractor installed hidden under the rear armrest ashtray bolted to the roll bar. Up from there, anchored to the upper roll bar, then the free end anchored to the floor in the stock outer anchor location on the hog trough. Inner latch buckle to the inner regular seatbelt mounts near the driveshaft tunnel.

I use the WIX white filter, and wipe off the printing with lacquer thinner, Paint the bottom portion with 'wrinkle texture' red paint, and use the repop Studebaker decals to make them look like a factory filter. But it's modern production and the filter medium isn't rotten and dried out, and there are no hidden insects in them. Never use a 60 year old consumable part when new is available. This goes for rubber parts too.

I think B9 was the lowest #

All the upper upholstery were panel card material, a dense cardboard. Covered in jute on the upper pieces, Cotton batting on the sides, and foam on the pieces on the doors, and upper 1/4 above the side panel where it rolls over the opening of the 1/4 window. The rear piece where the courtesy light is has the vinyl folded over the top only, then it was screwed to the body, then the jute glued then the remaining flap of vinyl glued to the body, and folded over the window openings (both the top of the 1/4 window, and the rear window).