brad

1/4"

Welcome back

No, don't do that Ron, it's part of the dash, and drilling out those rivets won't gain you anything. If your car is new enough to have the "cubby hole" in the top of the dash where the speaker usually was, then it's simple to remove that, and acccess the radio from that opening. Other wise the side panel on the console will have to be removed. Also, the stainless trim removed first. To do that, you have to remove the upright AC center duct outlet plate. (4 Phillips screws). Then you will see the nut holding the trim in place. Once the trim is off, then you can unscrew the console end cap. then the radio is held in with nuts behind its knobs. which pull off. There might be another bolt into the bottom of the radio chassis on the passenger side. There will be a small access hole for that bolt if there is one there. Then reach up and unplug the antennae and power wires, and the radio should wrangle out the back of the dash. You may have to remove the fiberglass heater duct to gain enough room to tilt the radio out. I think you can rotate it and tilt it enough to remove. Cars with AC are almost inpossible to access it easy. But I've done it when I was more limber. Anymore, I remove the whole dash instruments and all.

I'm pretty sure he's asking for the through bolts from the end plate through the main armature housing into the nose piece.

It's been stated before....R4 engines were not blue. One was that Paul Johnson owned and got from England. One engine does not make ALL!

I worked on a 76 that had a vibration, and it turned out to be the tail shaft bushing where the driveshaft yoke slides in and out.

No, there were no technical reasons for the lift, just pure asthetics of the new owners of Avanti motors. One of them didn't like the rake. plain and simple.

What year is your Avanti? Later cars in the 80s had the type you show that was on your car. They are a bear to curve properly to fit well.

I just got a set of Hastings rings, and there is an inside bevel on the top ring, and the 2nd ring has a step that faces downwards. If that helps any.

Not in power steering systems. They need the slippery lube of power steering fluid. Not transmission fluid. But yeah, in the powershift and superchargers it is good.

B & M Trick-Shift fluid the original type, not the synthetic. It's better than type F. That is what is in your blower now. It's blue. Someone knew what they were doing. It is a type F actually, but better suited for high speeds, and anti foaming, and heat tolerant. Most type F you can buy now days is so off brand that I wouldn't trust it.

Ron, I have one.

I hear through the grapevine they are in the process of being reproduced.

Engine bays, and door jambs did not get multiple layers of red oxide lacquer primer. And when they did, they were not wet sanded smooth. That is why you see the strands of the fiberglass. The outside main body got lots of primer, and was sanded.

It's the positive cable that's 17" long. the correct ground cable that reaches the oil filler block off plate bolt is a longer cable. Endurance Built products makes BOTH cables.