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left and right are the same.

Recently purchased a 63 R2 289 engine which come out of the machine shop but hadn't been assembled. My question is concerning the cylinder heads, they're not marked in any way that I can see whether they're left or right, driver or passenger side, I'm just wondering if it matters which side of the engine they go on and if it does, is there a way to tell by numbers Etc?

nice to see you Gunslinger. I have the framed photo in an upstairs bedroom. Whenever passing by and seeing that photo, I smile for quite awhile. though many years ago, that was a hellava event; and drive as that day was well into the 90's. Still, well worth the full day Mark

Wanted for parts -- original-style '63 Avanti voltage regulator with 4 terminal connections. I plan to use the shell to convert to a solid-state regulator.

At least with transmission fluid the color of any oil on the ground should give it away.

Oil pan gasket seems a likely source since it seems to leak even while sitting, and the rear main seal is farther up. I have found though that the transmission cooler hoses are suspect

I have reproduced the DOT disclaimer label as found on RQA0348. This silver foil sticker goes on the top of the cowl behind the brake booster. It is most likely appropriate for vehicles from 1967 to approximately 1970. I am selling these @ $10.00, if you are interested PM me and I will get one out to you.

If I remember correctly, didn’t the ‘87-‘91 model year Avantis have the deck lid weatherseal relocated to the body? (as opposed to being mounted on deck lid) A better location I think!

When I read those instructions, I concluded that the seal furthest away in the photo is facing the right direction. That is how I did it on my car, anyway, and it looks neat.

I thought so too. They are very close to the transmission. It looks like you can remove the rear mount support plate at the center of the "X" frame and drop it out.

I’ve had several Avanti II models but never had to change plugs thank God. I did change a fuel pump on one and it wasn’t a fun task. I’d be putting in platinum plugs hoping to never have to change plugs again.

I just saw this in Hemmings! Good luck with the sale!

The transmission can definitely be removed from below without removing the engine. The exhaust pipes might be in the way though and might need to be disconnected at the manifolds and moved for clearance.

There are two hidden screws under the black paper that is under the plastic name plate.

Your description on removing & replacing spark plugs #5 & #7 is very concise…. That’s exactly how I handled that same job on my ‘83!

Welcome to the club. :-(

The seal was installed properly, however a local trans mechanic just told me if the torque convertor neck is badly worn, they will certainly leak. That may be my problem. It’s going in the shop next week. And hopefully we’ll find the culprit.

That seal had to have been put in wrong before, as they rarely leak, the TH400 Trans is one of the most bullet-proof transmissions ever made; they put them on GM motor homes back in the day; be sure they put in a new solenoid on the shifting module, as that is inside the transmission and 'messy to change later and the new style works a lot better than the old copper-colil one.

Type F ATF

The 70 RQA had a 350/300 and the only way to get to plugs 5/7 were, to raise the car using the main crossmember,...brace with jack stands under the frame.... remove the Dside whee and use a hole saw to cut through the fiberglass inner fender, to enable a straight shot with a socket for #5. To get to #7, you had to lay on your back and approach from the Pside on a creeper until you could see the plug straight up from underneath. Then then reach up past the steering box with a socket in your fingers and place it over the plug, then attach the socket wrench and remove/reinstall the plug. You could not get a socket on a wrench in there in one move ... Now, since I had an engine change and the heads are now the "dart style", its even worse...

Two or three of the L&R rearmost plugs can be reached under the fenders, either working over or removing the front tires.

Thanks. After looking the engine over, it seems like a near impossible task to get to all 8 plugs. Not saying it can't be done by somebody, but it's likely not going not happen.

I understood that if the car has been sitting for a long time and then all the oil is at the bottom. That is, the engine no longer drains oil to the bottom. Then the cause can only be a crack in the pan or a drain plug. That was the case with me. My plug broke even though I had a copper gasket in it. It was too hard and I changed to a softer synthetic gasket and sealed the threads with Loctite pipe sealant.

Hi Aardvark- I got a bit of a shock trying to remove Sparkplugs when I got my '1981. The Smog pump and AIR Tubes do get in the way- job took a full day. My strong suggestion would be to persevere and oil the bores. spin the motor with no compression to get some oil to fill the the galleries before starting. Just my humble opinion 😊.

Do you still have the seats and where are they located? Thanks