Hogtrough

Other early 60's Studebakers probably used the same horn. If you care about originality, find one on Ebay (sample) https://www.ebay.com/itm/366233586381 If not, these early Mustang horns are very similar. https://www.ebay.com/itm/227151780264?_skw=hi%2Flow+horns+mustang&itmmeta=01KQBNCFS5MTN0VVHP687SKTN8&hash=item34e34d19a8:g:Xa4AAeSw4TxpUt9u&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xBiFPuQnBHki11Z5WfzIZrAOlWkqY5rLFMHS15FAgBZmea9fZKO5WN7B0viEi7XTwFAXixxQr2gfYqmbRF%2FE4v3uyi2GyLTjR8WpqKs71eOW6Zu1pUFUHU51fETr3nQyMPc5VKyrdEXedo4iaKpUawH2SKueXfiofc7%2Bqy8YDIywGyD%2FQfs47C8iLnYi4ZtUMJXRElGZfo4xyBQKOLuPMBPjA19JNkR79BQRy8%2BDS57lkb6gzNkoUw%2FoAu%2FaV3uhVw%3D|tkp%3ABlBMUPj8sfW6Zw

I've never had a problem selling cars with Marketplace. The trick is, I price them to sell using Hagerty and Old Cars Magazine price guides as a guideline. I realistically decide whether the car is a #2 or #3 and go from there. Every Studebaker I've fixed up and sold has taken maybe 6 weeks max. (I don't buy them to flip, but inevitably get bored with them once done and sell them after 2-3 years of ownership). Always looking for interesting trades, just in case you are inclined in that direction. Here's what I have.

Oil pan gasket seems a likely source since it seems to leak even while sitting, and the rear main seal is farther up. I have found though that the transmission cooler hoses are suspect

Drain plug would make sense on mine since it's in the general area and below oil level, but it is very tight and has a copper washer. I'll give it another look though

My '63 has an engine that was fully rebuilt in the early 2000's and driven little since. There are oil leaks from the engine and I've checked and replaced the oil pressure gauge hose and tightened the pan bolts. It seems to leak even when just sitting in the garage which seems strange to me - shouldn't the oil level when sitting around be below the crankshaft seals? What is the most likely source of the leaks? (which at a glance appear to be front and rear seals)

Really, the biggest problem with the 3EE is that they stay on the shelves FOREVER due to low demand. Routinely I find two year old batteries in stock at places like Autozone. Mine was recently replaced under warranty at about one year old (total of three since built). The replacement was, as usual. two years old

Turned out to be the heat riser installed on the WRONG (drivers) side by the engine rebuilder. It was free, but did not open when heated up. So I took a spring and wired it open. Now she runs like a scalded dog!

Went ahead and did that. Exhaust manifold itself is around 275-300 degrees, exhaust pipe only a foot away or so is 110. DId they typical vacuum test for restricted exhaust and it showed no problem.

Went ahead and checked. Temp at the manifold collector drops from over 300 degrees to 100 or so in front of the muffler.

I was. thinking the same thing and went out and looked, but very hard to tell from the top. Will jack it up tomorrow and find out. I'm going to start measuring the temp at the manifold and see if somewhere down the line it suddenly changes

My '63 R1 Avanti has distinctly lower pressure from the driver side exhaust pipe - probably a third of the velocity of the passenger side. I checked Youtube and found various ways of checking for exhaust restrictions, including using a thermal imagining camera . Don't have one, but used my trusty laser thermometer instead. The results were rather dramatic: Driver side muffler 104 degrees, can easily hold my hand on it. Passenger side over 300 degrees, hot stove territory. This is a fully rebuilt engine that runs (in my opinion) very strong. What could cause this?

There are a few things that affect the value not seen in the photos, such as the air cleaner housing needing rechroming (and no NOS or repop available), dash pad needs replacing and is covered by a mat, etc. I price them realistically to move. If I do more work to improve the value, I'll increase the asking price accordingly.