Jim S

I assumed that would be OK. But I was waiting for someone to suggest that it would be OK too!

The water pump I used is from Jeggs. I incorrectly called it a racing water pump. It's basicly a heavy duty high flow pump. I also took out the old surge tank and and put in an inline filler spout in the upper radiator hose like the later models. I think that will aid in getting out more air. I can't accurately set the timing until I can idle the engine. The instructions that came with the new engine specificly stated not to let it idle until break in was complete.

Thank-you everyone. I guess I have my work cut out for me!

I pulled the trigger and bought a 350 long block freshly professionally rebuilt. I have a brand new aluminum Avanti radiator. I have a heavy duty racing water pump and electric fan. The new engine needs to be run a 2,000 rpm for 30 mins to break in. I can't run it for 15 mins without the temp guage pegging to 240 and it overheating. I've purged the air out as well. I am lost why this thing won't run cooler. If I can't fix it soon, it will have to be sold at a huge loss. A friend told me that Avantis have an inherant air flow problem through the radiator. He said some people got more flow installing an air dam. Has anyone tried this? Or does anyone make an aftermarket add on?

OK, I installed a brand new aluminum radiator, new water pump (and 180 thermostat) and an electric fan enclosed in a shroud that covers the radiator. I flushed the system until all the rusty water was clear. I run the engine and she still got hot up to 240 on the guage. I shut it down and let the fan run. (the fan kicked on at 160). It go so hot the lover radiator hose blew of the water pump as I walked by and my back was scaulded with second degree burns that landed me in the hospital burn ward. I'm deeply disapointed in this car and don't know what to do next to get it to run cooler. My 87 with a 305 had all the same new componets and it never got hotter than 150 degrees even in heavy traffic on a 90 degree day!

Problem solved. I had the dash out and discovered the AC fan is grounded when it is bolted to the dash frame. Dash back in, and Fan powers up! Now on to troubleshooting no dash lights! It never ends!

I ran power as directed, and get nothing. I ran 12+ straight to the black (fan wire) and nothing. Does anyone know where on the box it is grounded? I have the dash out, but don't see any ground wires. If it's grounded somewhere, I may have a dead blower motor? I can't begin to imagine what it will take to get that thing out!

Thank you!

The wires for my AC unit were cut by the previous moron who was "restoring" my car. The are 3 wires going to the AC fan switch. There's a red one, a black and a green wire. Does anyone know where these should go? Also the compressor was removed and there's a blu wire hanging in the area where the compressor would mount. I hope that is for the clutch. Can anyone verify this? Thank-you!

Thank you very much. I figured that out. Finally got it adjusted correctly.

I have a 72 with the solid sunroof. The motor hums then jams with no movement at all. Is the removal procedure the same as described above for the moonroof?

The power steering is not working. When I got the car a week ago, the control valve was leaking and I replaced the seals with a kit that came with the car. No leaks now, but no power assist. Any ideas? Could the previous owner have reversed the hoses to the power piston? (Pump has fluid in it.) Would that cause my issue?

My car car will start in any gear. I have adjusted the neutral saftey switch in every position known to man and can't get it to complete the start circuit in only P or N. How do you adjust this thing?

So I ran an 8 gauge wire from the battery to a relay (near the switches in the console) that's triggered from the ignition switch. Once triggered, power and plenty of current is supplied to the switches and the motors. Now my windows glide effortlessly up and down all the way. My new circuit worked wonders.

Thank- you. My windows move so slow and struggle to reach the top with me pulling up the glass. The glass is alligned with the tracks and the springs on the regulators are loaded tight. If I put a 12v battery directly to the motors, they fly up and down perfectly. My guess is they are not getting enough current. So I want to try relays with a thicker guage wire to see if that gives them a stronger push.