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Zedman

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    Melbourne Australia
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    Studebakers Competitive Ballroom Dance

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  • My Avanti
    1981 RQB 3269

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  1. There is no O-ring at the bottom of the pickup tube as far as I know, nor on the Pressure regulator inlet. The swaged bead at the bottom of the tube is simply for locating purposes. The upside down screen will keep the mesh out of any muck that sits on the bottom of the pan. There is no magnet in the indentation but I suppose you might try placing one in there if you wish.
  2. I am undertaking a Frame replacement at this time so I am familiar with what it looks line "in the nude" as if it were. We obviate the necessity to remove the frame from the body- I believe it can be straightened using force and lots of heat. Once it is apart, I'm sure it will not look so daunting a task. Your alternative is to try finding a SWB Frame and modifying it (as I have done) locally or importing one. For this reason you have nothing more to lose by having a go at repairing what you have now. I'm surprised that beefy 'X" member is actually bent, but of course it is. I would enlist the auspices of a fibreglass specialist; perhaps one that is engaged with boat repairs. I do believe it is repairable rather than merely savageable- and finally, think of it as saving just one more Avanti from being scrapped to save another. Just my humble opinion, mind.
  3. My compliments on a really nice outcome ! πŸ‘Œ I have to re lay all new sound deadener/ Insulation on the floor of my Avanti. What material did you use? Is normal household Jute underlay OK for this job? I note the original stuff is a white material of some sort πŸ™‚
  4. Hope this helps.... is this what you need?
  5. Hi Gary- I once had a 65 Mustang convertible that seemed to steer all over the road when I first got it. It was awful- kind of twitchy. I found it's front wheel toe-in was very excessive (nearly 2"!). Once I adjusted it back to only 1/8" it drove incredibly more comfortably. Have a quick check of your Toe-In amongst all the other salient points.
  6. Hi John. I have the Grille out of my 1981 (with boxing gloves 😊) and can photograph & measure it for you. Is that any help? Steve
  7. It took me two days to figure out getting all the plugs out when I got my Avanti II home. I got a real shock- " I'll just whip these out and lube the cyls with a squirt of oil and start her up..." I am naturally "resistant" to anything that 'Butchers' the originality of our cars, but I have to give some creedence to hole-sawing out some nice well placed holes in the skirts one day...πŸ™ƒ
  8. Looks like I may have to put myself at the mercy of the inspecting engineer when I present the car. It will be interesting as to what solution will be suggested.
  9. Do Avanti II doors circa 1981 have any 'Anti Intrusion Bars' included in their construction? It appears I will get away with deleting the Catalytic Converter (Yay!) and be able to install an earlier style dual exhaust, but Australian Design Rules for 1981 will require side intrusion bars within the doors. A lot of 1970 US built musclecars imported here have had to had Bars made up and installed.
  10. Hi Wayne- I wondered whether this one might be a good alternative.... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-pv-2
  11. Reply for Wayne- The Kelsey-Hayes proportioning valve sold by Nostalgic autos is marked as the replacement for earlier units. This valve also comes with a poppet type pressure switch. I'd suggest having a look at it here.... https://www.nostalgicmotorcars.net/store/p18/1971-1985_Avanti_Brake_Combo_Valve_kit%2C_not_Studebaker_Avanti_.html#/
  12. Hi Gill. I am replacing my original Frame with a new one (well- one made up from a SWB Lark and welding all the necessary accotrements back onto it). I'm working in primitive conditions, so I can only hope you are better off ! If you are able to use the 4 point lift to get the body up, can you leave it up there whilst all the other work gets done? This solves lots of other problems. If you must take the body off the hoist, you may support it by simple wood blocks under the front A pillar mounting positions and under the rear wheel arch with a long length of timber. I have been told you can even support the whole shebang on timbers supported by 20 litre steel drums. You might even wish to consider integrating the whole issue into a moveable "Dolly", however. Beware that the back window and rear body will be heavier than the front- don't ask me how i found this out !πŸ™„ Whilst I have taken out the front seats and pulled up a bit of carpet I have left back seats in place and left the doors shut. I can open these doors whilst it is suspended but I choose not to because I just don't wish to tempt fate. Just my humble opinion, mind, but this task may take longer than you think- now is a fantastic opportunity to replace spring bushes, freshen springs, rebuild the front suspension, paint the hell out of everything.... Regards- Steve
  13. Hi Peter- thanks for your feedback- The culprit was removed from the 'Donor' SWB chassis. My mate says it needed to come off for the sake of authenticity, but I will check on it .
  14. Hi Peter- Thanks mate I will check next time I am in front of the project (it's 60 miles away!). By all means if you can identify it further, please do let me know. regards, Steve
  15. Thanks AD, for taking the time to check. Nope not in there, either.
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