DobbM

👋 I just had my starter motor rebuilt. Ran it daily for about three weeks and today -- a nasty sound while cranking it. I look below and I see these three bits laying on the garage floor. I remove the starter, and yup. Problem identified. My question: how did these three shard end up on the floor? The starter was fully attached. Is there a natural way that they could have got thrown free? Or should I worry more? Thanks.

Welcome to the club. :-(

Endurance is a new resource for me. Thanks.

Would this be the part?

Looking for a source. Thanks.

I emailed him a few months ago (I live within 30 minutes of him) and have never heard back. The email wasn't bounced.

This is the front right (passenger) engine mount. Is the only grounding from the engine to the frame?

Good fall afternoon. I'm trying to figure out a starter issue. My first thought is that the grounding isn't good enough, thus a full circuit is not there. The negative battery terminal goes to the engine (head?, driver's side), then on the other side there's a 10-14 awg wire from the engine block to the frame at the front, passenger engine mounting block. That to me doesn't seem to be beefy enough to handle the current that deals with the starter motor, but rather for all the accessories. I can not see the top of the starter motor to confirm that the cable from the starter solenoid has a tight connection. Is there a larger engine to chassis/frame wire for grounding? A braided one or something?

Point taken. I did another search and this was discussed over here: https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/80418-clock-ideas-replace-or-convert Sounds like a good winter project.

@Dunkin Did you find the correct template?

Minor thought process here and wanted to see if anyone has tried this. I have a negative battery terminal disconnect, and when used, obviously, the clock stops. I was thinking of keeping the power to the instrument for illumination of the clock face, but to get the mechanism (minute and hour hands) to run off a button battery. Stupid idea? Why didn't I think of that? Comments/Suggestions/Thoughts always welcomed.

I literally just found this in another post of yours. Thanks for the resource!

Final Assessment I've completed the install of the new alternator from Bob at AvantiParts.biz. I believe it's a Remy 55-amp. It fit fine. I couldn't get the battery to charge by hooking up the alternator's BAT to the voltage regulator. I was perplexed because the car was running so much better at idle. It must have just been running off the fully charged battery that I was topping off nightly. But if the new alternator wasn't giving the battery 14.xx volts, then was the original alternator bad? Or was/is the voltage regulator bad? I ended up taking 14' of 8awg from the alternator's BAT to the battery side of the starter solenoid instead of going to the voltage regulator, with an inline 60amp fuse. However, the regulator is working enough so that the dashboard amp-meter still works (it moves back and forth when the blinker is on), as does the key-on 12v supply to the alternator. Thanks for all the help with this, my first major project on this fun to drive car. As always, any comments/suggestions/ideas are still welcomed.

@A0136 Steve. That's diagram is much easier to read. What's the source?

Excuse the newbie question, I haven't had a carburetor in 25+ years and I always hated working on whatever AMC used. The choke valve on my carb doesn't close enough to start a cold engine. I've tried different ways to try and set it with the gas pedal to no avail. I also think it, at times, doesn't open enough with a warm engine. I hit the linkages and anything that moves with carb cleaner than on the outside hit the linkages with PTE Teflon spray. That's not the cause. I believe it is the trip lever and/or the fast idle cam. It seems as if the trip lever doesn't move freely (should it?). When I force it with my fingers, it will move, then the butterfly will close enough to start. Comments/Suggestions/Ideas? The second and third pictures show a spring that is not connected to anything that I noticed when working on the alternator and was going to ask about in a different thread, but I'm including it here just in case it's carb related.