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If anyone does decide to push out the rear window… I’d order a weatherseal ahead of time The last Avanti rear glass I replaced ( I’ve done two) definitely needed a new weatherseal.

Side glass & 1/4 windows (and vent wings) should not be a problem… even for the home mechanic… however, the rear glass is something entirely different!

Wanted 2006 or 2007 owner's manual.

3.5 lbs is what my 82 held

Thanks everyone!

I wondered that too. Maybe take it to the shop that does the work and get their opinion. How about the side windows, anyone done that and had good results? Mike

I’d guess the best way to do it would be to remove the rear glass and apply the film with the glass on a stand upside down… a lot of extra work though!

I'll add to this conversation................I purchased a 3EE AGM Battery from Antique Battery Co for my Avanti and kept it on the correct charger that Antique Battery recommended. It lasted 14 years! Yes it is expensive, but do the math, not bad over 14 years. Plus no concerns regarding acid spills or leaks. BTW, this 3EE battery weighs 40 pounds. Has a tar top, and six caps, to make it look like an acid battery. I recently ordered a replacement battery from Battery Central Mall 804-861-0165. Wayne at Battery Central Mall Mall explained that Antique Battery was sold and the new owners changed the name to Jim's Battery Manufacturing Co.and Battery Central Mall is a retail vendor. Took about a month to get my battery. The shipping carton is excellent. The battery is in a heavy cardboard box. That box is then put in another heavy cardboard box and completely surrounded by layers of styrofoam . Ships via UPS. The cost delivered is around $450.00 as I recall. If this one lasts 14 years the odds are that I'll die, before the battery does! John

This is due to the construction of the gauge: It is a balance between the voltage of the battery and the resistance of the temp sender. I would suspect the temp reading here. check temp sender and gauge!

Jim Checking water pump rotation, ignition timing and actual temp with heat gun as suggested above should be checked. Other possibility’s and thoughts. Thermostat installed upside down. Lower radiator hose collapsing. Does the lower hose a wire spring installed? Running the engine without a pressure cap, Leaking head gasket, cracked head or block. These will allow combustion gasses into the coolant. A fresh rebuild that has tight pistons will heat up quickly. Good luck hope you find the problem quickly. Steve

Below is a close-up of the pic in the post above and lightened. It appears that the builder of the black '63 Avanti didn't want to drill any new holes either, so made a bracket to hold the 51R battery down. Look closely. --Dwight

It seems that the amount of glass and the curves would make this difficult without seams and wrinkles, but it sure would be nice to reduce the heat gain through that thing! I'd need to remove the defroster (which has too many breaks to fix anyway) but can a tint shop do a decent job of it?

It looks like everyone has already mentioned what I was thinking, but if the ignition timing is retarded, it will run hotter. Same with a plugged exhaust. I don't think that either would heat so fast that you couldn't complete break-in though. Second, get an infrared temperature reader and see if it is really hot, or if it is a gauge issue. As an aside, my Champ had the wires to the gauge reversed, and within minutes of starting, the gauge would peg, but then soon drop. I never understood why it would act that way, but once the wires were in the correct place, it acted normally. My point being, don't rely on the gauge only. Third, I like the idea that the racing water pump may be designed for serpentine belts, thus runs backwards with conventional belts. Keep us informed!

Amazon has several types of adjustable hold down brackets for car batteries. Here's one: https://www.amazon.com/Aoerzn-Adjustable-Universal-Corrosion-Resistance/dp/B0BKL4FNVF/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1WB3HM1GJ7PNW&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.AYHUB1XestOtIytthO0MhBIHVZAZCCTYZh94t8njB98eLMu35FowAmxz-z1oNjNcL9oRC8h8FWP1CA8XainJ2YIV4bxcSiE2nBOY3yzDFUudipDbNM_8sifK_akwKKAJeH0_JAvjohMJVk7Bn90YB49f3pmH2aONJT4sqihwgyN9SbMKCbUMx9XY9rOCjePNMBFDhQbBAXakzXt14g3yctlPqLBviN471tuO8RqrGBo.KDru1r5J0GUyp97eqi1VxHNazOENBGzTqPGt8hOj7iM&dib_tag=se&keywords=car%2Bbattery%2Bhold%2Bdown%2Bbracket&qid=1750616003&sprefix=car%2Bbattery%2Bhold%2Bdon%2Caps%2C186&sr=8-1&th=1

By the way… you’re lucky to own an ‘85 model year Avanti… Blake tried to improve the car… and a few of the more important changes were… larger diameter front & rear sway bars….. shorter steering arms…. improved engine air intake arrangement… and a major change from the earlier Bendix disc front brakes to a modern GM ventilated front disc with sliding brake caliper and larger kidney shaped brake pads.

Also, a period (‘82-‘86) Chevrolet passenger car shop manual would have all the info you’d need concerning the engine/ trans…..and the Computer Command Control (ugh!) system.

That's the idea. I will be utilizing C6 Vette powertrain on C7 Vette subframes (front & rear cradles) amended to the Avanti frame.

RQB3263 .... OH YES !! I LIKE THAT ...... I THINK YOUR ON TO SOMETHING ....YAAAAA

The racing water pump could be part of the problem. If it's a reverse flow water pump that might be a problem but a racing water pump may circulate the coolant faster than it can be cooled.

RQB3263..... ALSO.... THIS IS MY SUMMERIZATION MOD LOOKS LIKE UNTIL THANKSGIVING WHEN I REMOVE THE 3/4 INCH SPACERS UNDER THE LATCHES, PUT THE LATCHES DOWN IN THE REGULAR POSITION FOR THE WINTER (OR COOLER WEATHER IN FLORIDA) AT THAT TIME THE SPACERS GO ON TOP OF THE LATCHES FOR STORAGE TILL SPRING .... THIS HAS TO LET ENGINE COMP HEAT OUT .....EASY AND CHEAP ....BILL IN FLORIDA

To the best of my knowledge...none exists. The best you can do is obtain copies of the 1963-'64 Studebaker Avanti manual and parts book and work from them...and ask questions here.

It sounds like you have a plan. If you are installing an LS in the stock location I would be interested in the details. I have a spare body etc and I like the idea of using it for an everyday car. Thanks Peter

Image credits 2014 Camaro Z28 airflow visualized http://alancolvin.com/2014-chevrolet-camaro-z28-is-designed-for-downforce/ Duraflex body kits https://www.duraflexbodykits.com/ The zoomed-in hatch lock is on the ebay store page of Midwest-Corvette The two C4 Corvette glass pictures were for individuals' ebay sale listings, now expired Every other image is me shooting photos within the Forza Motorsport games by Turn 10 Studios and Microsoft Game Studios. Some Forza images altered in Photoshop to display a high dynamic range. I needed some shaded details to stand out.

Hi Brooks. If you have a Disc Drum system on your Avanti, you probably (read, ought to !) have a proportioning valve on it. I had a Kelsey Hayes valve on the inner Left hand Frame Rail down below the Mastetr Cyl location. I have replaced it with a GM PV2 Combination valve which has the same port configuration of the old KH unit and even bolts up exactly the same. I believe the bottom port of the Master Cyl will be for the Front Disc system. This line will go to the Combination valve as indicated in the screen shot posted- i.e. top, next to Brake sensor, at the end closest to the little rubber plunger cover. A shot of my Master cyl is also shown for your comparison. If you need further clarification please do ask.

I’ve been kicking around some ideas for adding side skirts. One option is to borrow the design from either the E36 BMW or the C7 Corvette Z06. The Avanti’s body has that classic Coke bottle pinch—kind of an hourglass shape when viewed from above. With aggressive fender flares that pinch becomes even more pronounced. Interestingly, both the E36 and C7 side skirts have a similar inward tuck that might match the Avanti’s curves. If I go with either setup, I’d probably buy multiple full sets and then chop and blend the pieces to create one finished skirt per side. The goal is to get the right length while keeping the lines flowing naturally with the Avanti’s shape. A different route I’m considering is widening the belly pan to bridge the rocker panel gap between the front and rear flares. If I do that, I’ll clearly mark the exposed area with “NO STEP”—just to keep any well-meaning helpers from accidentally denting it. I’d use either sheet plastic or aluminum for this section. That way, it’s not only lightweight and functional but also easy and cheap to replace if it takes a hit. https://1drv.ms/f/c/1149023786558411/Eibsktqu2SpNlv5-3rx2W8UBMenuj6p1OAd_Z3zHz6hxMw?e=hLbTsx The factory gas tank location is another area I take issue with, so I plan to relocate it lower within the chassis. I believe there’s usable space beneath the rear seat, with additional room just behind and slightly above for a possible extension. Ideally, the new tank will sit below the floor but remain above and/or abreast the transaxle assembly—that’s the working concept, at least. I’m also considering a saddle tank setup: two smaller tanks bridged together. Any solution I select aims to maintain a total capacity of around 20 gallons. That goal is to lower the car’s center of gravity and free up space behind the rear seats. I would also look to reinforce the body structure in that area, perhaps similar to how some vehicles tie their rear shock towers together for added rigidity. Since I plan to replace the factory roll bar with one made of DOM tubing, I may go with a four-point configuration, using the rear posts to help offset the absence of a full rear bulkhead. The wide flares give me plenty of space to work with—between the inner and outer fenders and along the exterior contours. It’s a great opportunity to rethink airflow and cooling. I’m seriously considering the differential and transmission coolers from a C7 Corvette Z06 or ZR1. If I go that route, the A-pillar fences could serve double duty: smoothing out side airflow and directing air into the cooling ducts. Since I’m planning to install a belly pan and diffuser, which will trap heat around the transaxle, efficient cooling becomes even more important. I’m contemplating the addition of rear brake ducts, low on the rear fenders. The C5 Corvette Z06 design looks like a good fit, as the profile of the flares would angle each duct's inlet into the oncoming air, easing their duty. https://1drv.ms/f/c/1149023786558411/Eg37qyNEYFVBgdckB5IzmEAB7WJN9dIdWYPgQQty1h-gwA?e=FHZcSG I want to modify my Avanti’s rear glass to open like the C4 Corvette’s hatch. My plan is to replace the stock glass with a custom polycarbonate window that retains the Avanti’s original shape while amending the Corvette glass' upper leading edge mount. To complete the build, I’ll research and install appropriate gas shocks and fabricate a supporting framework to ensure proper functionality. There are aftermarket solutions available that allow the Corvette’s hatch to remain locked open an inch and a half. I’m interested in this feature because it would let me open the front vents and enjoy a steady stream of air flowing through the car. Additionally, the glass opening would provide a convenient alternative way to access the rear area. Since the trailing edge of Avanti's roofline must be modified, I plan to integrate the early C4 Corvette third brake light above the hatch hinge. While this upgrade would be particularly beneficial for earlier Avanti models with only two brake light lenses instead of four, I still desire added visibility under braking. https://1drv.ms/f/c/1149023786558411/EvCTMK_kZwJFmRiQF86-OK0BjzBrS4MMd_QmjQFVuG5Evg?e=f678y4 The rear valence will have a flush profile beneath the factory bumper, since I’m eliminating the fiberglass protrusions for the license plate and the exposed leaf spring shackles. To improve airflow, I’m considering adding air relief in this area. My current idea is to place cutouts with directional shaping just behind the rear tires, paired with a mesh screen centered in the valence. These vents don’t rely on louvers or ducts—instead, they use subtle angling and contouring to guide high-pressure air from the wheel wells into the low-pressure zone behind the car. The factory rear design acts like a small parachute, trapping turbulent air, so allowing it to escape should help reduce drag and improve the car’s overall aerodynamic efficiency. https://1drv.ms/f/c/1149023786558411/EuovoK_zVqlJhFksVWPzqMEBxRihNd65Ij7NYkJhzIfKoQ?e=IbOWWM These modifications might seem extreme, making the car more track-oriented than street-ready. However, they align with the philosophy of high-performance vehicles over the past thirty years. Cars like Vipers, Ferraris, Ford GT, Porsches, Mustang GTD, and Corvettes serve as my styling inspiration and performance benchmarks. I concede my results won't match a Hellcat’s straight-line acceleration or the raw performance of a modern Porsche 911 GT2, instead my goals are focused on optimizing road holding and improving aerodynamic efficiency. I plan to take the car to autocross events and would love to participate in SCCA or NASA track days at nearby venues like Lime Rock, Watkins Glen, and NJ Motorsports Park. Each offers its own unique challenges and rewards, and any one would be a fitting stage for this car to stretch its legs. However, the holy grail for a flared-fender Avanti is Mid-Ohio. Though the trip is fairly distant, the opportunity to push this build to its limits and lay down some laps in anger there feels preordained. While its forte will not be drag racing—and I’m not experienced in it—a few runs at New Oxford Dragway might still be worthwhile. Similarly, a 1.5-mile speed test at the former Loring Air Force Base could offer an exciting opportunity to gauge the car’s performance in a high-speed environment. Despite all these performance aspirations, my primary goal is to drive it daily, weather permitting. I’ll take it to Studebaker and Avanti meets, plus enthusiast events like Cars & Coffee, Fuel Fest, and LS Fest. These events will allow me to introduce the Avanti to people who may not be familiar with Studebaker or Avanti Motor Corporation. It's true Avantis of all years attend shows and gatherings, but this build would stand out like a beacon in the night. The actual raced Avanti GT and this one would be two out of a small percentage not built for show or straight line competition. Putting mine out there might spark new interest in the car and show people a different side of what an Avanti can be.