ronmanfredi

I had the exact same problem on my 82 model. It was the antenna. I removed the nut, cleaned everything really good and then applied some black silicone gasket sealant to the area. After I tighted the nut down, I wiped off the excessive sealant until everything looked good. Be sure to check the antenna drain hose and be sure it's clear if yours has one. The water no longer is a problem in my trunk!

350 with a 200R4. If you get a high horsepower 350 then you should get a built 200R4 for it.

You can remove the power wire from the voltmeter and seal off the end. Then run a new power wire to the fuse box spade terminal that only becomes hot when the key is on.

My 82 does not have any removable battery tray and doesn't need one. There is a place for the top battery frame clamp rods to go and that's it.

With the 2 regulator arms popped out of the lower window track and the 3 bolts and 2 nuts removed from the ventilator (with the 2 screws turned in) the window should lift right up and out (while tilting the ventilator forward and slightly up). Double check and be sure the regulator arms at the bottom of the window track are popped completely out of the bushings

First place I'd check is the ignition switch based on what you said.

The cable attaches to the transmission with a speedometer gear, there isn't any additional sensor.

Hella FF75 Halogen lights.

No, I left the coil spring spacers in place.

It's amazing how much time and money it took to bring our 1982 Avanti up to the shape it needed to be in. Purchased in May 2023, I went through the entire car, front to back, mechanical, electrical, Interior and exterior except paint. $9000 in parts and countless hours of labor and she is all but refurbished to where we are happy with her. I did all the work in my home garage, didn't take it to any shop except for the new true dual exhaust and wheels/tires. Shoot, I even bought the turntables, caster camber gauge and Toe Bar to align the front end after rebuilding it. The last thing that I did was to replace the old Fog Lights with some new ones that are now recessed behind the bumper and centered under the headlights. We like it and hope you do too!

I had to do some work on mine and the parts were from a 1980 BMW Recaro seat. I have the same interior color as yours but wasn't able to find a supplier of the OEM leather, so I repaired the leather and did a dye on the entire seat. It's close, but you can't match to the color variation of the OEM leather.

Yes, the gauge will pull out completely. What I meant was that you can pull it out part way, remove the bulbs and then completely remove it away from the dash. Installing it is in reverse, you'll just need to be sure to level the gauge while tightening the retaining nuts on the clamp. The clamp design will allow you to rotate the gauge into most any position.

The cable is held on by a threaded collar (round nut). You just unscrew it a few turns and then the nut will slide down the cable. You can pull the cable out of the speedo head at that time. More than likely, you can pull the speedo out enough to get the light bulbs out as well.

I added an electric fan to my 82 model stock radiator also. Had the radiator cleaned, it was in really good shape so I kept it. The fan is a 15" and includes a correctly designed shroud that covers 90% of the core. It has a variable speed controller that ramps up to maximum speed and turns on when the A/C compressor is running. Due to the amperage that the fan draws at top speed, I went ahead and replaced the 70 amp alternator with a 135 amp. Everything is working as it should !

There are 2 different bulbs used in the gauges and the base size is the difference. You'll need to get the correct bulb in order for it to stay in the holder.