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Ron Dame

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About Ron Dame

  • Birthday February 4

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Asheville, NC
  • Interests
    Studebakers, dogs, hiking

Previous Fields

  • My Avanti
    1963 R1092 R2

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  1. I like your fog lights. What are they?
  2. Well, I found the offending ground, and it was the right front turn signal. I had only looked inside the housing and at the pigtail, ASSuming that the ground wire was directly at the socket, not on the outside of the casting. I had a minor fender=bender last year, and it appears the body shop lost the correct screw for the ground and used a long sheet metal screw instead... so long, that the wire was loose. Worse, it was a much larger diameter that needed and split the lug on the housing. For the short term, I found a shorter, similar thread screw and have things operational until I figure out a way to properly repair the lug or create a different ground. I'm thinking of trying a dab of Frost King defroster repair epoxy which is conductive, to repair the lug.
  3. HI Skip, that makes sense. If it only happens with teh headlights on, it makes sense that's where the bad ground is. It does seem odd that impacts only the right rear brake light though.
  4. Thats right Ronmafredi. All is normal until I turn on teh headlights
  5. With the headlights off, all lights work normally. With them on, there is current back feeding to the right signal indicator on the dash, and sometimes the right brake light works, sometimes it does not, but only when the headlights are on. I cleaned both front and rear light sockets on the right and used dielectric grease. The ground on the front was confirmed with almost no voltage drop. The back socket where it connects to the light body is clean and greased, though I don't think this is the primary ground, if any ground at all. I ran a temporary ground from the right light socket to the left (which acts normally) but this did not solve the issue. I've attempted to find the proper ground for the RR lamps, with no avail. What am I missing?
  6. Upholstery condition is not important, unless it's burgundy. Matching burgundy rear seat with good upholstery would be a plus. Ron rdame58@gmail.com
  7. LeoB and Silverstude, all I can say is that it works. and it's not much different than Dan Booth's solution, though I had not considered the bouncing and potential to break the hood, hence his use of the TP and shop rag. As far as safety, as stated, there is a positive pressure above the hood that keeps it from rising more than a couple of inches, yet it apparently offers enough air to flow out of the engine compartment that it works. For me anyway. I accidentally discovered this when I for got to latch the hood and saw the hood raise a bit on teh highway, but not much. And the engine never got overly warm that hot day.
  8. When my A II starts getting warm, I pop the hood, driving or not, an it allows enough extra air flow to cool it down a bit. It's not a pretty solution, but easy and quick when needed:
  9. I understand. I'm a Luddite that didn't know there were [laces that could print stuff for you.
  10. Much as I disdain the cupholder as a measure of quality, tell me more about yours! The rest of teh interior is fantastic as well!
  11. That's really nice! Many of us don't have the need for a 3D printer, so you might be able to help offset your expenses with selling repros. ( and no, mine are OK right now)
  12. I have tried grounding it to the other tail light, which works normally, but no change. Bez also indicates that the grounds end up in that general location. I don't think I had this problem before I had some front paint work done, but will check my grounds there. The odd thing is that If I move the rear socket around, all is OK.. for a little while. And it only happens with teh headlights on.
  13. My Champ and Larks have those, but they are too big to fit well in the Avanti
  14. Thanks. The fact that the left one lit up may have something to do with the bad ground on my right tail light too.
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