Geoff

The answer which really matters is, "Far too few." I love driving standard, which is a huge reason I'll incorporate one in my build.

Spin Tech also make good mufflers which don't lose performance. They have quite a few options though and the differences vary the volume & tone. If you go that route make sure you select carefully. I had a Spin Tech 3000 series on a Mk1 Rabbit GTI once and enjoyed the heck out of it. I plan on using either the 3000 or 6000 series Spin Tech mufflers on my Avanti when it's up and running. I may also run electronically actuated "dumps" and Silvertone's loud option upstream of the pair of Spin Tech, so I have obnoxious mode. https://spintechmufflers.com/

Interesting! I'm going to guess the factory could have done it for [2] $13,000. If the above figures are 1981 dollars, in 2024 those amounts equate: 1) $31,106 … 2) $44,931 … 3) $58,756 … 4) $76,037 I would think a factory could build a tube frame road race car for $44k today. At least, I would hope so anyway.

Thank you so much Lew!

Yep, 1984 were landscape oriented and adjacent to the bumperettes. 1985 were portrait oriented and hug the license plate. At least that's how I differentiate the Blake twins. My car didn't have any when I bought it, otherwise I would say you could have mine. I'm leaning toward Hella auxiliary lights to fabricate some reverse lights into my bumper. They have several light styles and housings from which to choose. I would bet you could find somebody parting out an Avanti with the reverse lights you need. Or, look for another light to fill your need.

🤣 Is this the first time a trivia question has been answered with a notary? Bob came in with fuggin' proof.

Not too bad overall. "Adapt or die" is a pretty compelling reason for change. Personally speaking, the fender blades are a little too thin (laterally speaking) and the car's fascia is a little too far recessed (too deep set). At the current depth, a "big ol' splitter" needs to fill the gap at bottom front. Actually, just pull the fascia forward a little bit (leave fender protrusions where they are) and still install a splitter, but then this splitter version would be more shallow. Rear 3/4 view looks good. Ship it! 2031 IMSA GT4/GT3/GT2, here we come!

The stock wheel/tire package [205/75-15] on your '84 Avanti stood about 27.11" in diameter. Your current wheel/tire diameter sits at 25.68". 1.4" is a minuscule difference though even half of that would give 0.7" more clearance. 255/50-17 tires would be 27.04", closer to the factory height. I know tires can be an expensive remedy, not every size is available across all types (winter, all-season, high perf. summer, etc), and your current tires may have a lot of life left in them. Maybe look for a bigger set as a coming replacement? Though I have a Blake car, I have not yet gotten to the suspension teardown, was a spacer supposed to be below the coil springs and has been removed? Air shocks like HiJackers from Gabriel could be an option, at least for the rear (but would change your car's rake). My father put some on the rear of 1025 and plumbed the Schrader valve to the license plate frame. If the rear was sagging we'd "pump up the license plate" with more air. My auto shop classmates thought that was a hoot. Air ride or coilovers could be a remedy. Neither are cheap though.

If you really don't care about what you have currently, I suppose there's bleach. But that would then require a very good dousing, scrubbing, and rinsing to remove all of the bleach before undertaking a new dye job. Alternatively, sell what you have to somebody who wants that carpet and put those proceeds toward buying carpet which is already the color you desire.

I think that's what I'm going to do with my car. Today's cars have fluid reservoirs in all kinds of locations that would otherwise be dead space. My daily's windshield washer reservoir is between inner and outer fenders, in front of the car's RF wheel well. With how torn down I plan on taking 4174, I'll probably locate a new reservoir somewhere akin to that.

I'm tearing apart my car and know how the washer fluid reservoir removes and re-installs, but you're not gonna like what I have to say. You've got to contort yourself up under the back of your dash. At least, that's more or less how mine came out. My car's a basket case and I didn't care about how it removed, just that it removed. My reservoir was brittle and screwed. So I screwed it over s'more and now have a little more fiberglass repair to do. Oh well. I might not even put a washer reservoir there, as that looks like the perfect spot for a Crane Fireball or Holley MSD box to mount. Hopefully anybody doing the correct repair has a car that wasn't left outside for two dozen years, and the studs & nuts just glide off of each other with minimum effort.

What seats do you have? Are they fully manual Recaros?

I'll guess 4) 30 lbs.

You mention that idea and instantly this article came to mind. I read this the day it hit my mailbox. "From each pipe, it's pulled into separate 80mm mass-air-flow sensors and then into a belt-driven Garrett 2.1-liter supercharger. (The supercharger has an electro-hydraulic clutch activated by a console-mounted on/off switch to maximize fuel economy when you're not out to feed on Ferraris.)" - https://www.motortrend.com/reviews/ford-super-stallion/ Of course, I read that then and threw that idea into the back of my mind. A supercharger belt on a clutched pulley would be an interesting feature, a little bit like a bottle of nitrous you don't need to refill. It's an interesting idea for sure and I want to drive my Avanti GT tribute … a LOT. A fuel saving mode would make sense for my long haul drives. I've also had the thought of incorporating a "track key" like some cars have had. A couple keys, one with an economical fuel map and a 4500 RPM rev limit (handy for any valet purposes too) and one that hits with all the available horses through the whole rev range. --------- Edit beneath--------- I had to take an Internet gander at the A/C compressor you mentioned. Best I can find is it's known as [RV-2 or RV2] and "What makes it cool is that the internals resemble a mini-version of a V-twin motor." - www.originalair.com It sounds like you could be spinning your engine north of 6000 RPM, suddenly decide you'd like to engage that pulley, and it'd take the abuse while smiling and winking at you. "She's a brick, da na na, HOUSE! Da na na! She's mighty-mighty …"

Superchargers have come a long way since then. Having said that, I do marvel at the WWII birds that used artificial aspiration to make >1,000 horses at altitude. Thanks to the advances in pressurizing, today's kids build their car with boo-coo horsepower … right before #3 con. rod. requests fresh air and vents the block, and piston #4 exits the building. I have a desire to recreate RS1021 but I'll take a couple finagle factors. When it comes to the question of "To Paxton or not to Paxton" that's a tough one. Vortech / Paxton is a good and viable option today. There is TorqStorm. They designed an impeller to start generating meaningful boost at a lower RPM. There is Rotrex. Those Danes make different sized options, engine size and power goals dependent. There is ProCharger. Oh, yeah. ProCharger makes excellent superchargers. Powerdyne was an option but went under. Used options are available though. And those are just centrifugal companies.