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Hello All, does anyone know what is the size of tee fitting in the fuel line between the tank and pump under the passenger's side?

If anyone does decide to push out the rear window… I’d order a weatherseal ahead of time The last Avanti rear glass I replaced ( I’ve done two) definitely needed a new weatherseal.

Side glass & 1/4 windows (and vent wings) should not be a problem… even for the home mechanic… however, the rear glass is something entirely different!

Wanted 2006 or 2007 owner's manual.

3.5 lbs is what my 82 held

Thanks everyone!

I wondered that too. Maybe take it to the shop that does the work and get their opinion. How about the side windows, anyone done that and had good results? Mike

I’d guess the best way to do it would be to remove the rear glass and apply the film with the glass on a stand upside down… a lot of extra work though!

I'll add to this conversation................I purchased a 3EE AGM Battery from Antique Battery Co for my Avanti and kept it on the correct charger that Antique Battery recommended. It lasted 14 years! Yes it is expensive, but do the math, not bad over 14 years. Plus no concerns regarding acid spills or leaks. BTW, this 3EE battery weighs 40 pounds. Has a tar top, and six caps, to make it look like an acid battery. I recently ordered a replacement battery from Battery Central Mall 804-861-0165. Wayne at Battery Central Mall Mall explained that Antique Battery was sold and the new owners changed the name to Jim's Battery Manufacturing Co.and Battery Central Mall is a retail vendor. Took about a month to get my battery. The shipping carton is excellent. The battery is in a heavy cardboard box. That box is then put in another heavy cardboard box and completely surrounded by layers of styrofoam . Ships via UPS. The cost delivered is around $450.00 as I recall. If this one lasts 14 years the odds are that I'll die, before the battery does! John

This is due to the construction of the gauge: It is a balance between the voltage of the battery and the resistance of the temp sender. I would suspect the temp reading here. check temp sender and gauge!

Jim Checking water pump rotation, ignition timing and actual temp with heat gun as suggested above should be checked. Other possibility’s and thoughts. Thermostat installed upside down. Lower radiator hose collapsing. Does the lower hose a wire spring installed? Running the engine without a pressure cap, Leaking head gasket, cracked head or block. These will allow combustion gasses into the coolant. A fresh rebuild that has tight pistons will heat up quickly. Good luck hope you find the problem quickly. Steve

Below is a close-up of the pic in the post above and lightened. It appears that the builder of the black '63 Avanti didn't want to drill any new holes either, so made a bracket to hold the 51R battery down. Look closely. --Dwight

It seems that the amount of glass and the curves would make this difficult without seams and wrinkles, but it sure would be nice to reduce the heat gain through that thing! I'd need to remove the defroster (which has too many breaks to fix anyway) but can a tint shop do a decent job of it?

It looks like everyone has already mentioned what I was thinking, but if the ignition timing is retarded, it will run hotter. Same with a plugged exhaust. I don't think that either would heat so fast that you couldn't complete break-in though. Second, get an infrared temperature reader and see if it is really hot, or if it is a gauge issue. As an aside, my Champ had the wires to the gauge reversed, and within minutes of starting, the gauge would peg, but then soon drop. I never understood why it would act that way, but once the wires were in the correct place, it acted normally. My point being, don't rely on the gauge only. Third, I like the idea that the racing water pump may be designed for serpentine belts, thus runs backwards with conventional belts. Keep us informed!

Amazon has several types of adjustable hold down brackets for car batteries. Here's one: https://www.amazon.com/Aoerzn-Adjustable-Universal-Corrosion-Resistance/dp/B0BKL4FNVF/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1WB3HM1GJ7PNW&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.AYHUB1XestOtIytthO0MhBIHVZAZCCTYZh94t8njB98eLMu35FowAmxz-z1oNjNcL9oRC8h8FWP1CA8XainJ2YIV4bxcSiE2nBOY3yzDFUudipDbNM_8sifK_akwKKAJeH0_JAvjohMJVk7Bn90YB49f3pmH2aONJT4sqihwgyN9SbMKCbUMx9XY9rOCjePNMBFDhQbBAXakzXt14g3yctlPqLBviN471tuO8RqrGBo.KDru1r5J0GUyp97eqi1VxHNazOENBGzTqPGt8hOj7iM&dib_tag=se&keywords=car%2Bbattery%2Bhold%2Bdown%2Bbracket&qid=1750616003&sprefix=car%2Bbattery%2Bhold%2Bdon%2Caps%2C186&sr=8-1&th=1

By the way… you’re lucky to own an ‘85 model year Avanti… Blake tried to improve the car… and a few of the more important changes were… larger diameter front & rear sway bars….. shorter steering arms…. improved engine air intake arrangement… and a major change from the earlier Bendix disc front brakes to a modern GM ventilated front disc with sliding brake caliper and larger kidney shaped brake pads.

Also, a period (‘82-‘86) Chevrolet passenger car shop manual would have all the info you’d need concerning the engine/ trans…..and the Computer Command Control (ugh!) system.

That's the idea. I will be utilizing C6 Vette powertrain on C7 Vette subframes (front & rear cradles) amended to the Avanti frame.

RQB3263 .... OH YES !! I LIKE THAT ...... I THINK YOUR ON TO SOMETHING ....YAAAAA

The racing water pump could be part of the problem. If it's a reverse flow water pump that might be a problem but a racing water pump may circulate the coolant faster than it can be cooled.

RQB3263..... ALSO.... THIS IS MY SUMMERIZATION MOD LOOKS LIKE UNTIL THANKSGIVING WHEN I REMOVE THE 3/4 INCH SPACERS UNDER THE LATCHES, PUT THE LATCHES DOWN IN THE REGULAR POSITION FOR THE WINTER (OR COOLER WEATHER IN FLORIDA) AT THAT TIME THE SPACERS GO ON TOP OF THE LATCHES FOR STORAGE TILL SPRING .... THIS HAS TO LET ENGINE COMP HEAT OUT .....EASY AND CHEAP ....BILL IN FLORIDA

To the best of my knowledge...none exists. The best you can do is obtain copies of the 1963-'64 Studebaker Avanti manual and parts book and work from them...and ask questions here.

It sounds like you have a plan. If you are installing an LS in the stock location I would be interested in the details. I have a spare body etc and I like the idea of using it for an everyday car. Thanks Peter

Image credits 2014 Camaro Z28 airflow visualized http://alancolvin.com/2014-chevrolet-camaro-z28-is-designed-for-downforce/ Duraflex body kits https://www.duraflexbodykits.com/ The zoomed-in hatch lock is on the ebay store page of Midwest-Corvette The two C4 Corvette glass pictures were for individuals' ebay sale listings, now expired Every other image is me shooting photos within the Forza Motorsport games by Turn 10 Studios and Microsoft Game Studios. Some Forza images altered in Photoshop to display a high dynamic range. I needed some shaded details to stand out.

Hi Brooks. If you have a Disc Drum system on your Avanti, you probably (read, ought to !) have a proportioning valve on it. I had a Kelsey Hayes valve on the inner Left hand Frame Rail down below the Mastetr Cyl location. I have replaced it with a GM PV2 Combination valve which has the same port configuration of the old KH unit and even bolts up exactly the same. I believe the bottom port of the Master Cyl will be for the Front Disc system. This line will go to the Combination valve as indicated in the screen shot posted- i.e. top, next to Brake sensor, at the end closest to the little rubber plunger cover. A shot of my Master cyl is also shown for your comparison. If you need further clarification please do ask.