64studeavanti Posted February 16 Report Share Posted February 16 1 hour ago, mfg said: Yes.... brake booster on factory Hemi Mopars is indeed smaller due to those oversize heads...Bob was confused about that. Actually, boosters for hemi equipped cars are larger. They are 8 3/4", similar to our Avantis, as opposed to the smaller 8" non-hemi Mopar. The hemi equipped cars have an offset bracket etc. to clear the heads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfg Posted February 16 Report Share Posted February 16 (edited) 54 minutes ago, 64studeavanti said: Actually, boosters for hemi equipped cars are larger. They are 8 3/4", similar to our Avantis, as opposed to the smaller 8" non-hemi Mopar. The hemi equipped cars have an offset bracket etc. to clear the heads. Okay thanks...I guess I had it backwards....Next time I see my friends Daytona I'll take a closer look. Edited February 16 by mfg added text Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfg Posted February 16 Report Share Posted February 16 1 hour ago, regnalbob said: You still didn't answer my question. I have to laugh when you threaten to block me. If it makes you happy block me. Yet another post you edited after crying about the SDC Forum & Studebaker Drivers Club. Have a nice day Bob! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Posted February 17 Author Report Share Posted February 17 The master cylinder came today and cosmetically it was dead on. I measured the new one and from the mounting face to the piston in the bore measured 1 1/4 inch which is the same as a Stude master cylinder. The one that was on the car measured substantially less. I have a feeling it wasn’t ever working correctly. This new one is an early 70’s Chrysler with disc brakes. We ordered the disc version thinking maybe it wouldn’t have a check valve. I didn’t take it apart to see. Does anybody know if it has a check valve and if so should I remove it?? I think the bore was the same on the new as the one I took off. I will double check it tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfg Posted February 17 Report Share Posted February 17 (edited) 38 minutes ago, Nelson said: The master cylinder came today and cosmetically it was dead on. I measured the new one and from the mounting face to the piston in the bore measured 1 1/4 inch which is the same as a Stude master cylinder. The one that was on the car measured substantially less. I have a feeling it wasn’t ever working correctly. This new one is an early 70’s Chrysler with disc brakes. We ordered the disc version thinking maybe it wouldn’t have a check valve. I didn’t take it apart to see. Does anybody know if it has a check valve and if so should I remove it?? I think the bore was the same on the new as the one I took off. I will double check it tomorrow. Ther should not be a residual valve in it, as by the early seventies disc brakes were standard on Road Runners. (disc/drum as on Stude Avantis) Edited February 17 by mfg added text Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfg Posted February 17 Report Share Posted February 17 6 hours ago, aardvark said: I'm just after answers... not quibbling. Whoops!... time to put your big boy pants on son...sometimes we get a bit rowdy on this forum!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aardvark Posted February 17 Report Share Posted February 17 Your perspective of my pants is not needed or even sensical... First off it's all '''off topic'''. Nothing of value is being gained and especially under this topics diversions into childish bashing. Yo Mama's Calling, go home before thew street lights come on. I'm out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfg Posted February 17 Report Share Posted February 17 6 hours ago, aardvark said: Your perspective of my pants is not needed or even sensical... First off it's all '''off topic'''. Nothing of value is being gained and especially under this topics diversions into childish bashing. Yo Mama's Calling, go home before thew street lights come on. I'm out. Don't let the door hit you in the butt ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regnalbob Posted February 17 Report Share Posted February 17 11 minutes ago, mfg said: Don't let the door hit you in the butt ! Just want to save before you edit this post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Lackie Posted February 17 Report Share Posted February 17 11 hours ago, mfg said: Whoops!... time to put your big boy pants on son...sometimes we get a bit rowdy on this forum!!! Agree with aardvark. It's not rowdy, it's childish. Whatever you guys are pissing in each other's shoes about, it's not related to brakes, or Avantis, or Studebakers, or even cars. It's wasting my (and everyone else's) time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Posted February 17 Author Report Share Posted February 17 1 hour ago, Skip Lackie said: Agree with aardvark. It's not rowdy, it's childish. Whatever you guys are pissing in each other's shoes about, it's not related to brakes, or Avantis, or Studebakers, or even cars. It's wasting my (and everyone else's) time. I hate to say it but not a good way to build forum attendance.😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Posted February 17 Author Report Share Posted February 17 Back on brakes. Thanks for the input on check valves. I assumed that deletion of the check valve would be on all disc front drum rear cars that’s why I specified the disc brake version when ordering. Now I know. I wonder if the MC I took off was for a full drum car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfg Posted February 17 Report Share Posted February 17 1 minute ago, Nelson said: Back on brakes. Thanks for the input on check valves. I assumed that deletion of the check valve would be on all disc front drum rear cars that’s why I specified the disc brake version when ordering. Now I know. I wonder if the MC I took off was for a full drum car? Your welcome Nelson...Sorry about the diversion, but it's irritating when a certain member will only post when he feels the opportunity to correct me. (and yes, I do make mistakes)... He has been at this for quite some time. I have blocked him (again) and If he desires to pester someone else... best of luck to them! The split brake master cylinder, set up properly, is a positive safety improvement over the original Stude Avanti single piston master cylinder...and the mid seventies Mopar cylinder has worked very well, for many years, in my '63. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfg Posted February 17 Report Share Posted February 17 If anyone with a Studebaker Avanti is contemplating making this master cylinder change, let me know if you are unclear about the hydraulic brake line routing....Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aardvark Posted February 17 Report Share Posted February 17 No thanks. I'll defer to someone else's experiences. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfg Posted February 17 Report Share Posted February 17 18 minutes ago, aardvark said: No thanks. I'll defer to someone else's experiences. Your welcome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avanti1963! Posted February 18 Report Share Posted February 18 I hope "regnalbob" isn't blocked. He has a wealth of information to share. Not sure who the moderator is but I think he/she should seriously consider blocking "mfg" for his poor forum decorum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Posted February 18 Author Report Share Posted February 18 I got the master cylinder on, I replaces the front and rear rubber brake hoses and now waiting on the rebuild kits for the rear cylinders. I noticed the lower part of the lining of the front shoe on both sides is worn way more than any other surface. I’m thinking this is poor adjustment? Any ideas? I also changed the rubber oil pressure hose to engine. I bought this Avanti a few weeks ago and just trying to get it back on the road. Really a solid old car and it’s gold with an original orange (tangerine) interior. I always liked that combination. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark L Posted March 3 Report Share Posted March 3 (edited) I'm also following the dual master cylinder portion of this thread. My Avanti only has the single master cylinder. Question: Does the Avanti already have a proportioning valve since it's front disc/rear drum, or will I need to add one if I convert to a dual MC? Edited March 3 by Mark L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedman Posted March 4 Report Share Posted March 4 (edited) Hi Mark- A proportioning valve should be fitted if you have a Disk / Drum Brake combination- not just because you have a dual MC. My '81 Avanti II has a kelsey-Hayes (original on the car) unit and is located on the left hand side frame rail and down below the Booster/MC. I found out a lot about this valve because it was seized and full of muck, my car having been stored for many years. I posted a thread about it some time ago. Avanti's had these KH units from 1971- 85. A functioning PV would be a good addition, if it's absent. Nostalgic Autos have the K-H valve and a kit of tubes https://www.nostalgicmotorcars.net/store/p18/1971-1985_Avanti_Brake_Combo_Valve_kit%2C_not_Studebaker_Avanti_.html#/ There are lots of tuneable variants available if you prefer and lots cheaper. I hope I'm not telling you to 'suck eggs', but the Proportioning valve ensures the Rear Drums are applied before the front disks start to bite. Edited March 4 by Zedman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SST-TIM Posted March 5 Report Share Posted March 5 Avanti did offer a dual master cylinder conversion kit. In 1984 while ordering parts, the Avanti parts guy, Mike Kornfeld, mentioned that Gene Hardig's daughter had a brake failure. Gene put together a converter kit to replace her booster/master cylinder with a dual chamber master, but without a proportioning valve. The instructions show a hand-written note "Parts List - To convert to late booster 68-72 w/o Proportioning Valve." The kit included P/N 1700556 Booster/Bracket Cylinder Ass'y, P/N 1701526 Brake Line, front block to Master Cylinder rear port, and P/N 1700935X Brake Line w/fitting 1561262 at top, to Master Cylinder front port. Price in April/1984 was $250.50 plus shipping. I installed it, along with the Brake Lite Switch Conversion Kit (see AOA #31) and changed over to Silicon DOT-5 fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoyG Posted March 16 Report Share Posted March 16 Rather than experimenting, I contacted Turner Brakes and got everything I needed to convert the front discs to their system, and got the new dual master from them at the same time. Bob Munter redid the rears (new cylinders and shoes) while he was rebuilding the rear axle assembly to a TT 4.09 and replacing all the bearings. I had Dave Thibeault get the booster rebuilt and I'm installing all new brake lines. I didn't want to take any chances with the brakes, so I stayed with all trusted sources. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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