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64studeavanti

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Everything posted by 64studeavanti

  1. I have made many purchases. Bob is a great guy to do business with.
  2. Don't forget to remove the grease fitting first.
  3. One of my 63s, R4551, has the 813 BKV option according to the build sheet. It was slated for the Las Vegas drive away. The dash panels etc. are covered in woodgrain vinyl, I assume it is di-noc. The the steering wheel is woodgrain tenite. It also has round knobs. The interior is solid black vinyl with black carpet.
  4. The number on the housing is the casting number. For Studebakers, the part number is not necessarily the same as the casting number. For replacement, the best you can do is find a good used one for sale. Being a Avanti only part, they are quite rare. FWIW, the R1, R2, and R3 are the same part number.
  5. 526956 is the casting number for all rods odd or even. There should be a stamped cylinder number, 1, 2, 3 etc on the rod and cap where they fasten together. As long as you install them in the correct cylinders and orientation, you should be good.
  6. Should be 527114 for odd and 527115 for even. I will go out to the shop and check on casting numbers.
  7. Likely casting numbers vs part numbers. They are usually not the same.
  8. A valid concern. If one was worried about that, they could purchase an extra set of pads. In 5-10 years, the original Dunlop pistons may no longer be available. The Sumitomo version is getting scarce, if not already NLA. Brakes are a wear item, so replacing the pistons after 5-10 years should not be a real concern. The good news for Avanti owners is that the Dunlop design was used by many British, Japanese, and other makes. Parts will be available in some form or another.
  9. Thanks for doing this. It is good to know there is a more affordable alternative.
  10. Would be good to know if we have another source.
  11. The original Dunlop caliper pistons (and the ones licensed such as Bendix, Sumitomo, etc) were SAE. It would make no sense if these were metric. FWIW, before I discovered these, I was able to purchase Sumitomo from Parts Geek. They are SAE and fit perfectly. Unfortunately, Parts Geek and others that sell the Sumitomo are out of stock.
  12. The picture shows the crossover tubes. Since the original Jaguar caliper pistons do not have the pins in question, I am assuming that they are part of the improved design and should not be removed. The original parts had a mechanism to pull back the pads slightly. Cannot tell if these have similar, or if they are even necessary as "modern" calipers do not have this mechanism and rely on runout to provide the same function.
  13. I use compressed air to push the pistons out.
  14. I have not tried these, but the price is right. https://mossmotors.com/8777-2-cp-cobalt-brake-cylinder-axle-set?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzaqmz_-s_wIVgZqGCh2kYwuqEAQYFSABEgJSg_D_BwE#829=2405?utm_source=feed&utm_medium=free&utm_campaign=shopping
  15. I assume you cleaned and painted engine, starter, etc. How about scraping off some of the paint where the starter mounts to the engine. Ensure that you are grounding to a clean, bare area and that the cables you are using are of the correct guage. Inexpensive jumper cables may not be able to handle the load, and paint is not a good conductor. One more thing to check, is the valve lash on spec? If valves are not opening correctly, that could be an issue.
  16. I have purchased several items from Bob. Always got good parts, prices and service. Hope everything is ok, he is one of the good guys.
  17. They have a separate part number for 4.55 ratio as well. Must be the speedometer drive on the mainshaft.
  18. Don't disagree with special order ratios. Do disagree with statement that 4spd was only used with 3.07 ratio.
  19. Are you sure about the 3.07 axle? IIRC, standard R/A was 3.73 for 63 and 3.54 for 64 for cars with 4spd.
  20. Yes, Shims on right side, followed by brake backing plate, followed by reinforcement plate, and finally, the dust seal. IIRC, there is a thin paper gaskets that goes between the dust seal and reinforcement plate.
  21. The 2 piece pin pictured, aka thrust block, is for twin traction. The open differential uses a one piece thrust block.
  22. FWIW, picture of correct rag joint with horn jumper.
  23. Pictures of 78 Avanti Spring spacer. The Studebaker Spring coils are flattened on the ends. IIRC, the 78 coils were round.
  24. One on each side. I have a spare set. I will post pictures later this morning.
  25. My 78 has two aluminum spacers on the bottom of the springs. They are about 1/2". I did not have any rubber spacers. I do not know for sure if this is factory.
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