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Skip Lackie

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  • My Avanti
    1974 RQB-2127

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  1. Body numbers were applied to Stude vehicles to keep track of running changes that might affect replacement parts identification. Bodies for most models were welded up(well, Avantis were not welded up!) in groups and set aside for use when needed. Since they were not pulled in sequential order, a later body with a new feature might be used before an earlier one with a different feature. The body number really did make a difference for 1949-53 2R-series trucks. Because of that long production run, there were a number of running changes made to body characteristics that could affect replacement parts. Studebaker Avantis were not in production long enough to have many running changes. Headlight shape is the only one that I can think of.
  2. Most of us love those rocker switches, but they're not high quality. The on/off one could have failed. If you have a multimeter, you can remove the switch and check to see it it's really turning off when in the off position. A multimeter could also help you determine if you have a parasitic battery drain -- turn off/disconnect everything including the clock, disconnect one battery cable, connect the amp meter across the gap and see if there are any electrons crossing. If you drive the car infrequently, you might want to invest in a Battery Tender or some other trickle charger, plus one of those cheap disconnect switches with a green knob. In the long run, it's a lot cheaper and more convenient than dealing with dead batteries.
  3. Too much information! Thanks for the link, Leo, but I've lost interest.
  4. So a while ago I noticed new markings emblems next to our names on posts. I discovered that I am a Rookie, which I assume is related to my count of about 110 posts. There appear to be 14 ranks, and not even MFG appears to be anywhere close to achieving the top rank, whatever it may be called. Should I/we care? Is this just an automatic feature of our forum software?
  5. California plate number IIN-629 was issued in 1963, so that's good news -- you now know that the car lived in Calif from 1963 to 1974. The early Calif stickers had a tendency to peel up around the edges, and many owners peeled them off before they put on a new sticker. That would explain why there are no earlier stickers on those plates. It still does not provide any info on where the car was living during 1974-89 (which was your original question!). Someone with some old AOAI membership rosters may be able to find the car listed under another owner's name. Good luck with your car.
  6. Our current concern with ID-ing the exact model year started when the first emissions and safety regs were issued in the mid-60s. Although we usually think of them starting in a certain model year, the federal regs actually become effective on January 1 each year. The car manufacturers don't want to change equipment every 1 January, so they adopt the standards early during model-year change-over. I have a 74 Avanti that was built late in the year, and several more were built after that right into December -- all under the older 1974 emissions standards.
  7. Agree with Gary. The problem you have is that it could be either a 259 or a 289, and could also be a standard engine or an R1. The factory assumed that the buyer would know what he ordered, and did not include any stampings on replacement engines to indicate what was inside. The only way to know for sure would be to measure the stroke and/or look at the piston tops.
  8. It is certainly possible that the car has been in storage somewhere (I've done that myself, though not with an Avanti). It's also possible that the car was licensed in some other (rust-prone) state for those 15 years, and the seller decided to throw that paperwork away and emphasize the Calif black-plate history by including only the Calif plates and registrations with the car. California yellow/black plates have a mystique here in the US, because cars that have those plates (and a plate number that is correct, chronologically) have been in California ever since the 1960s, and are, therefore, not likely to have serious rust. It supposedly adds value to the car, but for the unwary, it can be a trap. Do the California registration cards match your car? If so, then at least you know that the car was registered there in 1973 and 74. What are the first three letters of the license plate number? The yellow and black plate numbers started at AAA-001 in 1963, and reached ZZZ-999 in 1969, so those plates could not have been first issued in 1973. The three-letter prefix will ID about when they were first issued.
  9. Thanks for the correction, Bob. I looked in vain for 3MT and fixated on the MT only. Chevy parts books used to include a complete listing of those engine codes, but seem to have stopped around 1981. The Camaro Z-28 site does a good job, but it warns that it is not complete.
  10. Idler pulley? Maybe we have a semantics problem and/or I'm not keeping up with developments, but I associate idler pulleys with serpentine belts, not V belts. My 74 with original engine is arranged this way: Crank pulley has three grooves; Front one for water pump/fan and alternator, middle one for power steering, and rear one for air conditioning. No idler pulley or tensioner.
  11. If I am reading your post correctly, it sounds like you made out. The MT prefix indicates a 1967, 295-hp, 350. Unless you're concerned about originality, I'd call that a win. Not to hijack your thread, but I find it interesting that most (all?) Avantis I have seen with Chevy engines seem to have engine numbers that indicate that they were intended to installed in a Chevy, as opposed to sale to an outside company. My 1974 has a Chevy 400 that has a CSX suffix, which indicates it was supposed to be installed in a Malibu with automatic (my Avanti has standard shift). By contrast, the 283 V8s used by Studebaker in 1965-66 had engine numbers that clearly indicated that they were intended for outside sale.
  12. Could not see the ad (dead link) for the 81 shop manual that you posted. But the one you want is almost certainly called "1981 Passenger Car Service Manual". The one that won't do you any good will be called Fisher body service manual. I have a 1980 Chevy manual you can have for $20 plus postage. It's even possible that your engine is really a 1980 model. You can ID your Chevy small block engine here: https://nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.html
  13. Studebaker engine sale, from the estate of the late Daniel Webber. Bare blocks. No apparent ridges on the cylinders. These were all saved by Studebaker dealers as good blocks from wrecks or warranty work, and saved by Dan for ~50 years. Located in Gaithersburg, Maryland, about 20 miles north of DC. $50 apiece for the engines, $25 apiece for the transmissions. Intakes and drive shafts are free. Loading assistance from two old guys is available. Inspection possible with prior arrangement. No walk-ins. 1. Two Avanti 289 blocks, R1324 and RJ304 2. Two Flightomatics 3. Bell housings, 6-cylinder intakes, clutch plates, drive shafts Drop me a PM and I’ll provide POC phone numbers.
  14. Studebaker cars for sale, from the estate of the late Daniel Webber. All with clear titles. Located in Gaithersburg, Maryland, about 20 miles north of DC. Loading assistance from two old guys is available. Inspection possible with prior arrangement. No walk-ins. 1. 1964 Avanti #R5009, automatic, square headlights, 77K. Complete, but rusty frame. $1900 2. 1963 Avanti #63R1975, no engine or trans (had standard). Jammed in barn with dirt floor, not easily accessible, condition of undercarriage unknown. $1000. 3. 1964 GT Hawk, not JT, auto, complete, in same barn. $1000 4. 1964 Daytona convertible, 259, auto, complete, in same barn. $3500. Drop me a PM and I’ll provide POC phone numbers.
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