Zedman

Hi Aardvark- I got a bit of a shock trying to remove Sparkplugs when I got my '1981. The Smog pump and AIR Tubes do get in the way- job took a full day. My strong suggestion would be to persevere and oil the bores. spin the motor with no compression to get some oil to fill the the galleries before starting. Just my humble opinion 😊.

Just my two cents for Avanti II's up to 1985, mind... 🫠.. Avanti II's front seats went to high-backed seats in 1970 and departed from the original Studebaker design. I believe the later seats were Recaro's and by all accounts, a definite comfort and safety improvement. Catalytic converters were introduced in 1975 which resulted in a departure from a true dual exhaust system; this may or may not be of issue to you because I know some owners will remove these if they are allowed to. I have removed this Cat system and installed a dual. Studebaker Frames were made of thicker metal in the 'Hat Sections'- meant for V8's, but resorted to utilizing left over 6 cylinder Frames of thinner material from RQB2596 in 1977- probably not a big issue in reality, but you have a choice I suppose. Chevy engines have their advantages- although in 1981 they went to a computerised engine control system and as such have an electronically controlled Carburetor, Distributor, and lockup Torque convertor for the TH350C. All these can be eliminated or gotten around if you are allowed to do so where you live- manual lockup switches/kits are often utilised for instance. I have an 1981 model (RQB3269) and given the knowledge I've mentioned here, I may well have chosen an earlier model If I knew then what I know now. Later 1981 models from mine had Automatic Overdrive transmissions- a worthy advantage in my opinion and a definite improvement over the venerable old Borg Warners. Finally- I believe the build quality of Avanti II's as a whole were very good and they continued to evolve throughout their lineage. I have absolutely no qualms with the original Studeys, but reckon the II's are an inherently better build and a lot cheaper to buy, and a lot more to choose from. I suppose it depends on whether you want to have your car wear a 'Studebaker' script or can live without it.

I checked my old parts stash (kept for reference !) and it appears to be the same as yours- I never checked this fit so I was also surprised. Because the actual bearing surfaces are the screws and they rotate, the Pinch bolt Clamps the 'Trunnion' tightly and prevents its rotation. Don't lose sleep over this one ! 😴

Lovely- Excellent set of photos.... be very proud 🙃

I thought I'd ask this question here rather than the Avanti Trivia page, where there is a discussion going on about Ferrari engines... Dwight has postulated a bore-out by 80 thou over would have brought the 289 Engine into the 302-ish realm. My query is - Surely the ability to change the core patterns for the casting of Engine Blocks would have been a viable, economical and realistic way of ensuring an increase in HP as well as a safety margin to ensure overboring would not be compromised by thin walls. Anybody wanna comment here? 🤷‍♂️

Hi Tom- I took lots of photos of my setup before I dismantled it but still ended up a bit confused. I can post these if you want them just the same. However- the following links were useful to me and may well help you as well.... BTW- the parts book shows some detail BUT there are differences in the bends of a couple of the steel tubes- these will probably only confuse you. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/4695-studebaker-power-steering-hoses-replace-how-to https://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/Psteer/valvehose.html

Hi Roy- I'm yet to get my Avanti II Body onto my new Frame so your story interests me. One query, though, where you mention using rubber in some Frame to Body. Where did you put these exactly- only steel shims should be used throughout the mounting points, so I don't think rubber should be in there. The only rubber I found were two on the top of the Crossmember above the Rear Axle 'kickup' and they were only taped in place at the factory (don't really know why they are even there). My photos in an earlier post on this thread show what came out immediately after the Body lift. Just askin' !

Here are some naked Frame photos- these may help... My Chassis was very salt corroded and some fuel lines were virtually rusted through and broke completely during removal. Are yours as bad as mine?

Th Coefficient of thermal expansion for Aluminium/alloys is around 0.0008" per degree Celcius - That's nearly a thou every degree. From that standpoint I'd wonder whether Stress cracking would be a valid problem.

Hi Ted- I'm very interested in doing the same and I will be keen to hear of your results. I believe that most of these carbs come with a selection of jets and Metering Rods. There is an excellent article by a well respected Rochester rebuilder by name of Lars Grimsrud here.... https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Qjet/tuneaQjet.pdf . This is a must read IMHO- it is not just a matter of rejetting, but of the CFM range of the carb as well. As I have a 305 engine, I only need a 600CFM range. Many of the carbs offered are 750's for much larger engines. Many years ago he took on a Chicom Quadrajet copy for a customer and went through it in great detail to get it running right. Metering Rod and Jet sizes were covered. The whole topic was covered on line with heaps of photos. This is here.... https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/4523417-new-chinese-q-jet-inspected-evaluated-and-tested-the-complete-results.html I'm pretty sure Alcohol blended fuels will more than likely require slightly larger jetting. Good luck-

Hi All- I've followed this thread with a good deal of interest because I will be putting RQB3269 back on a new Frame soon. The matter of shimming has been an interest to me. This thread prompted me to look at my reference photos and the 1 1/2" x 2" x 1/8" steel Shims at the rear of the Hogtroughs were stacked 5/8" and at the Firewall they are a stack of six BIG 1/4"plates giving 1 1/4" lift above the horseshoe shaped Stand. this means there was a 'rotation' upward at the front end. Interestingly these all fall within Group 2103-116 but exist as three different part numbers... 287685, ('oldie'- listed in 1959 parts book as an engine mount 1/4" spacer in group 0101-40), 284488 (I'll assume these are 1/8") and an additional different one at the top of the stack of longer length to provide better bearing on the Fibreglass floor which I will only assume might be 1336199. So all up, I don't see a 2" lift even at the front end. 🙃 Dont'cha just love this forensic stuff !

I believe these are the Chicom copies that receive various comments online. The good thing about them appears to be the bellcrank arrangement for the throttle- it appears to be the same as the originals and a drop-on-fit, plus the correct orientation of the fuel inlet (skewed to one side). These can be had much cheaper if you buy them online on Temu and Amazon- 'Bricks and Mortar' stores need to put their profit margin on top. Beware there are two CFM models... the ones for large capacity engines (750 CFM) are actually way cheaper than the ones for pedestrian 350's and 305's (650 CFM) but on the whole pretty inexpensive all around. Most of 'em even come with a kit of various jet sizes. I'm just about done trying to find a Quaddie with electric choke and the correct Bellcrank here in Oz, and despite my reservations, will probably end up with a Chicom. https://www.temu.com/ul/kuiper/un9.html?subj=goods-un&_bg_fs=1&_p_jump_id=894&_x_vst_scene=adg&goods_id=601100904891709&sku_id=17597587194867&adg_ctx=a-3935607e~c-5992c87d~f-d01a0905&_x_ads_sub_channel=shopping&_p_rfs=1&_x_ns_prz_type=-1&_x_ns_sku_id=17597587194867&_x_ns_gid=601100904891709&mrk_rec=1&_x_ads_channel=google&_x_gmc_account=5403696277&_x_login_type=Google&_x_ns_gg_lnk_type=adr&_x_ads_account=4525514603&_x_ads_set=22941029271&_x_ads_id=184778158539&_x_ads_creative_id=771606302339&_x_ns_source=g&_x_ns_gclid=Cj0KCQiAx8PKBhD1ARIsAKsmGbcB05R9dI16NMfleCmHQKElaxZo0BE_tzbjNSo0VAAn4A1ylDNg9KQaAqp9EALw_wcB&_x_ns_placement=&_x_ns_match_type=&_x_ns_ad_position=&_x_ns_product_id=5403696277-17597587194867&_x_ns_target=&_x_ns_devicemodel=&_x_ns_wbraid=Cj8KCQiAx8PKBhC9ARIuAFZ07iBPfOFdM3dr7Lir434E1f-8SuBb1PFTHqH5JXFnMms_bG11Ztf1Uo4kohoChz8&_x_ns_gbraid=0AAAAAo4mICEP_ciMPSaknqRKALVeqFnjt&_x_ns_targetid=pla-2437418753229&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22941029271&gclid=Cj0KCQiAx8PKBhD1ARIsAKsmGbcB05R9dI16NMfleCmHQKElaxZo0BE_tzbjNSo0VAAn4A1ylDNg9KQaAqp9EALw_wcB

Ahhh- so that's the masonite peice... I have counted about 8off 1/8" shims at the outrigger mounts under the hogtroughs of my '18 Avanti II so I figured 2" is too much and would say False to the original question.

I reckon the Fan Shroud might well have needed tweaking so Ill say yes to that, but two inches of shim..... I'll say no to that.

My compliments SCPO-PD, you are doing a great job ! Great photos . On my own Avanti II, found the little bellows/seal where the brake pedal plunger goes through the Firewall to be hard and decided t replace it, seeing I'm eventually painting the firewall. You're lucky... I can't get the windscreen washer bottle off the top of the firewall.

Hi AG-R3. Thanks most kindly for your assistance- this is exactly the information I'm requiring. Regards.... 🙃

I have an '81 Avanti II with the dreaded Computer Controlled Carb/ignition/TC lockup controls. I expect the Oxygen sensor is probably stonkered given its age and thought I'd better research a replacement. This is proving more daunting than I thought. To cut to the chase... Does anybody have any knowledge of a direct replacement for the two-wire O2 Sensor on these cars?

Hi Ronmanfredi- Do you have any advice on how to remove the headlining/upholstery et-al ?.... photos , anything ? I need to do this job too and any prior knowledge would be really helpful. 😕 To be honest I have considerable rust damaged parts up there and I might end up with a removal instead of a restoration.

Not really a trick- hard work actually, but it works...... A half of a 24TPI High Speed Steel hacksaw blade with a bit of rag taped up for a comfortable handle. Remove the centre bushing and rubber. I use a little propane torch to heat the tube and burn the rubber enough so you can rip the tube out with vicegrip pliers. Once that's out, get really comfortable and use the hacksaw blade to make a slit inside the tubing bore along its entire length. It's not easy put patience will reward you. Eventually the tube can be made to collapse slightly and it can be driven out with a drift. It really helps if you can access a lathe and make up a drift to suit with a piloted end that will fit loosely into the Bush bore and a nice square shoulder to push with. Before pushing new Bushes through DO give the Frame Bore a little cleanup with abrasive cloth or you will likely have the new bush fight you.

Here are a couple of photos of my '81's Rear Springs as removed. The general condition of the Rubber pads and Aluminium Wedges is clearly very poor due to age and Corrosion from salty roads. One wedge was nothing but crumbly muck. I'd imagine your vibration could be attributed to something like this. I will be replacing the Wedges with new ones once I have the car assembled again and I can properly measure the Pinion Angle. There was only enough of the 'good' wedge left to measure an approximate 2 degree tangent. The rubber Insulation pads are available from SI- Page 261 of the current catalogue ... Part no 554620. Wedges are not listed, but are available elsewhere on the Web.

Absolutely ! Still a tough job but better done than not. I find I have to split the Tubing longditudinally with a hack saw blade in order to remove it... never had much luck pressing 'em out.

Hi 64studebakerAvanti- Yeh lots of shims but it is an Avanti II with a Chevy engine so I wonder if that's why. About an inch at the Hogtroughs. When I put the body back on I will be looking as to whether I might eliminate a few, perhaps. Your comment about Rubber insulators for the Mufflers - are these rubber Suspension Straps for the restraint of the Exhaust system or something else? I have recently had a full dual Exhaust bent up and fitted to this chassis buildup.

Doing a Frame-off rebuild is a challenge, but boy oh boy, the satisfaction is so rewarding. . Not to mention the ease of buildup because you can get at everything because it's right in front of you. The feedback you are getting is dead accurate but I'll post some photos for your benefit. The following comments and photos relate to my 1981 Avanti II The 1/8" approx rubber 'tyre sidewall material' live up on the Crossmemeber above the Rear Axle as shown in the picture. These were not bolted- rather just taped on. I think these were an anti chafe measure There are two Rubber Doughnuts (water splash mitigation?) interposed between the upper X Frame rails and the body where the Seat Belt bolts go through At the 'A" pillar/Toeboard there are a stack of large 1/4" thick shims- the top one of these is longer to offer more contact with the fibreglass and is not shown that way in one photo, but is in a closeup.. At each Body mounting along the Frame there is a stack of 1/8" STEEL Shims 1 1/2" x 2" (and some thinner ones for fine adjustment) There is a STEEL shim at the rearmost tubular steel crossmember pad- mine only had one of 1/8" and it measured approx 1/12" x 3" And just in case you don't have one, (add one !) there is a Battery box Reinforcement bar up front and on the left top Frame The photos here should show all of these details...

Hi Ted- I'd strongly suggest a total rebuild of your original by a well experienced technician. I'm looking for one too, because I'd like to eliminate the Computer controlled unit one day, but I dont want different Throttle Bellcranks to the original and I'm not having a lot of luck finding that. I may relent eventually and try a Chicom Copy...