Jump to content


AOAI Forum Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Previous Fields

  • My Avanti

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

RoyG's Achievements


Apprentice (3/14)

  • Dedicated
  • Conversation Starter
  • One Year In
  • First Post
  • Collaborator

Recent Badges



  1. RoyG


    @mrfeez Thankfully spring is here and you should be able to make some serious progress over the next several months, keep us posted.
  2. Sorry to keep this thread going, but it seemed like the best place for this. I'm looking to order tires for my '63 Avanti. I recently got the new Real Rodder wheels, so they are wider than the stock wheels. I'm going with an R-3 clone engine 4.09 TT rear end and Tremec five speed tranny and looking for the widest wheels I can put on the rear to improve traction on launch. I understand the front wheel size is somewhat limited by clearance issues, so if I go as wide as I can in the rear the fronts will be a little more narrow. Looking for suggestions as well as "Pros & Cons", of various choices. What have others used, and are you happy with the result?
  3. When I cleaned up mine the material I removed seemed more like a flexible mastic tape material than a gasket. I had some metal building roof mastic tape laying around so I used that. It forms to fit, is sticky as hell, and never dries hard/brittle. It might not be original, but no one will ever see it and it won't leak!
  4. The entire interior of mine was "shot" so I removed it all before pulling the front and rear glass and painting the body (off the frame). Now it is time to start putting the new interior back in. I understand some parts of the interior should go in before the glass gets re-installed, and even before the new headliner material? Starting with the entire inside stripped, and all new boards, headliner, and vinyl what is the correct sequence for the install?
  5. RoyG


    My project is still moving forward... I haven't quit yet! Final paint is all on and I'm about 1/3 finished with the "cut and buff" process. All the suspension is back on the frame but the engine rebuild I was having done took longer than expected so the engine is not yet mounted on the frame, but that should happen very soon! The dash is out, completely stripped and on a stand in the shop getting ready for the new dash pad. Everything but the glove box hinges have been refinished and are waiting for the reassembly. Been having fun doing small projects in between all the sanding. Keep the faith we'll both get there eventually!
  6. Rather than experimenting, I contacted Turner Brakes and got everything I needed to convert the front discs to their system, and got the new dual master from them at the same time. Bob Munter redid the rears (new cylinders and shoes) while he was rebuilding the rear axle assembly to a TT 4.09 and replacing all the bearings. I had Dave Thibeault get the booster rebuilt and I'm installing all new brake lines. I didn't want to take any chances with the brakes, so I stayed with all trusted sources.
  7. Dan Booth at Nostalgic sells rebuild kits for these seats... and they aren't expensive.
  8. RoyG


    @mrfeez I did all the body work outside in the driveway, including both hog troughs. Then pulled the body off the frame (in the driveway) and striped the frame bare. cut out the rusted areas, welded in new sections, wire brushed/sand blasted everything and then painted the inside of the frame with spray in rust converter and painted the outside with POR-15. Suspension going back on now, but frame is under a trap in the driveway. The body is on a home made cart with wheels that is now in the garage going through the various stages of painting. I sanded the body (after removing all paint) with 180 grit and block sanded to get things "straight". This could have been done outside but I opted for inside to better control when I could work on it. The next step was FeatherFill. which also could have been done outside. Sanding, filling, and block sanding the FeatherFill could have been done outside. Recently I got the body to the point where I felt good about spraying the sealer coat, which I am now finish sanding. You could do all these steps outside, but you'd want to bring the body to an inside spray booth for the final paint once all the "prep" work is completed. I'll paint mine in the garage with a jury rigger intake and exhaust fan set up. It's a "process" but you can do it if you take your time. Good luck.
  9. Bob might trailer it for you, he has a couple trailers.
  10. Yes, Bob is a good guy, and very knowledgeable. He rebuilt my rear axle assembly to T/T with 4.09 gears and new rear brakes and treated me fair. He is building my engine to R-3 specs (with reworked heads rather than actual R-3s), and has been helping with used parts and quidenace.
  11. RoyG


    OH MY, you didn't mention the hog troughs, frame, or potential body work issues. A couple years ago I decided I wanted to restore an original '63 (round headlights) Avanti. I also decided I wasn't going to make it 100% original, but I wanted it "NICE", so I figured I'd start off with one that needed everything (CHEAP) since I was going to want to redo everything anyway. Also I wouldn't need to feel bad for destroying the "originality" of a low milage car that should be kept 100% original. The body was rough, like every panel but the roof and trunk lid had damage. One door couldn't be saved and I also had to replace the front clip and L/F fender. The other damage was repairable. Of course the hog troughs were toast, the rear cross member was rusted badly and the lower rear frame rails were in bad shape. Two years into the project I sometimes question my decision, but the frame repairs came out fine, the body work is all finished, final paint should go on soon, and my R-3 clone engine should be ready to drop on the frame in a few weeks. With a little luck the freshly painted body will get mounted back on the chassis and back in the garage before the snow flies and all the collected new parts (chrome, interior, dash pad, gauges, etc) will get installed before spring. I wish you well with your "project" but if you don't plan to do most of the work yourself you'll end up "underwater" from an investment standpoint. Best of luck.
  12. Bob Munter at WCD Garage in Northboro is super, and specializes in Avantis as well as all other Studebakers. He owns several personally. The problem is there is a long wait time to get in the shop.
  13. RoyG

    Bolts needed

    Thanks for all the information and suggestions. I was away for two weeks but got back last night. I'll start with the parts manual and ID the Studebaker part numbers for everything I need, than send a list to Studebaker International and cross my fingers. I assume that the Larks and Hawks used some of the same bolts but will try to get a peek under the hood of onne at the next car show to confirm.
  14. Best of luck getting re-united with your car.
  • Create New...