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Everything posted by RoyG

  1. Update: After speaking to a lot of people, and getting continuously more confused this is what I've done: I got a used Studbaker '62 bell housing from Dave Thibeault. It is set up for a GM bolt pattern. I then went to the local expert (and dealer) of Tremec transmissions (Mike Forte- Parts Connection) who had a bunch of the new Tremec TKX transmissions on order (both Ford and GM based). These are five speeds that are rated for 600 foot pounds of torque. OK, that might be over kill, but I only want to put one transmission in the car! The GM based tranny bolted up to the bellhousing, but the pilot shaft is about an inch too short. Neither one fit the guide hole in the bellhousing. We decided that the best option was to go with the ford based model and drill additional holes to mate to the bell housing. Mike had a jig from this from back in the day when Tremec only made transmissions for Fords.... he drilled the holes for me using that jig. Mike also has aluminum spacer rings that can be used to help with the nose flange line up to the bellhousing. Of course the rings weren't the right size. I'm having a local machine shop turn the outside of the spacer ring down to fit the bellhousing. Then I'm having the nose flange of the transmission turned down to mate with the inside diameter of the spacer ring. I'll also have a couple set screw holes drilled and tapped so I can make sure the spacer ring stays on the transmission when I slide it all together. Dave will get the right clutch and throw-out bearing to ride on the pilot shaft. The standard Avanti clutch linkage will work. Right now the new TKX transmissions are only available with rear mounted shifters, but mid mounts will be available soon. That's all I know for now.
  2. Best of luck with your new project. I'm a couple months into mine (a lot rougher than yours!) and enjoying most of the process. About the hog troughs from down south: Just because an Avanti spent its life away from salted roads and a lot of moisture doesn't mean you are in the clear. There are weep holes that let water escape from various points (like the cowl vent) and lead the water down into the hog troughs where (in theory) it could easily escape. In the dry dusty southern regions, where they get a lot of wind blown dust, this dust can get washed down into the hog troughs where it collects and then holds moisture. That constant moisture can easily rust the hog troughs out from the inside. When you get the car up on a lift first check for visible signs of rust, and then hammer test (lightly) the bottom of the troughs for weak spots. My right side troughs was "toast" but the left side looked solid. I figured "what the hell" and decided to rip them both out and replace them. The left side was badly rusted and needed replacing almost as badly as the right side, even though it wasn't "rust through" except in two very small spots. The job is a real "PAIN" but I feel much better knowing I'm working now from a solid base.
  3. Jack, when you say "World Class T5" which transmission is that exactly?
  4. Progress report: Dave Thibeault found me a good engine that was partially rebuilt for a prior customer that gave up on the project. It was already bored out to 304.5 ci and had the rotating assembly balanced. He then found me a set of low compression heads that he had cleaned up, and installed the larger (R3) valves in. My spare intake manifold was the correct (slotted) one, so I got lucky there. I also got lucky on the blower I had, which is being rebuilt now with the higher output pullies. The carburetor wasn't the right one, but Dave has found me an R3 airbox which will hide the fact that I'll be using a slightly larger one. Dave has found the correct oil pan and breather and is working on all the other parts needed. The five speed transmission is becoming a bit more of a "challenge" than I hoped. Dave found me everything I need to convert to a standard transmission and even an adapter for the T5 five speed, BUT I've been told that the T5 won't stand up to the R3 engine as it was only designed to handle 300 lbs/ft of torque. I've found several Tremec transmissions that are rated high enough, but will they fit? Looks like they won't bolt up to the adapter designed for the T5. Still working on that problem... do I go with the T5 and hope it will hold up? Or keep looking for a better alternative? In the mean time the first hog trough is almost out! Its been a nightmare of a job, but the second side should go better as I'm learning! Thanks for all the support.
  5. If he sold the molds, is the person that bought them going to offer a repair service? My wheel isn't broken but it is cracked and could use some help.
  6. I spent some time with a few good people over the last couple days and have some answers as well as some more questions: First for the answers: Dave Thibeault is having my engine built and has all the parts needed to convert the Studebaker engine to the Ford T5 transmission (Stude bellhousing, flywheel, clutch, and ford adapter). The problem is the T5 is only rated for a max of 300 lbs/ft of torque and the R3 engine will be more powerfull than that. Therefore the T5 won't stand up! I spoke with Mike Forte (Fortes Parts Connection who is a Tremec dealer and high performance pro shop locally) and he suggested the Tremec TKO series which can handle either 500 or 600 lbs/ft....They both seems pretty close to the T5 in overall size but the TKO is wider (bigger case). The new Magnum-F 6 speed replaces the no longer available T56, but is considerably bigger than the T5 and might not fit in the available space. Has anyone put one of the higher capacity Tremec transmissions in their Avanti?
  7. I just found this post doing a search for transmission information. Like tjl2244 I'm working on a "blank slate" project that I want to convert from automatic to 5 speed. I'm having an R-3 engine build now and have been told that a standard T-5 transmission won't stand up. Looking at other transmission in the line that are rated for more than 300 foot-pounds of torque, they all seem to have a very high first gear ratio, which would put a lot of load on the clutch off the line. Does anyone know of a five speed transmission that can take the load and has a lower first gear ratio?
  8. Hi Ken, I'm pulling 63R-2158 apart right now.... lots of rusted bolts! I'm replacing the hog troughs though so not as worried about the bolts breaking.
  9. RoyG


    Hi Ruth, I also would like a list, I just started restoring one in rough condition and need almost everything.
  10. New cables are available from several vendors.
  11. I am also looking for an early (one piece style) grill as mine is badly rusted.
  12. I'm a new guy that has a lot to learn, but can second (or third) the positive comments on Dave. I got both the front and rear HD sway bar kits from Dave just last week. He had them in stock, was great to deal with, and everything looks great (even got install instructions!).
  13. So the only difference in the R-1 and R-2 intake is those slots? Can they be cut in? What's the benefit? Did anyone ever make an aluminum four barrel manifold that would improve the performance of these engines and could be used with standard heads?
  14. Thanks for the pictures and information Dwight. I defiantly don't have the correct water pump housing! So that gets added to the list. I purchased the parts book and repair manual from the Museum so I'll see what I can find on the AFB. I'll get ahold of Jon, I need to talk to him about having my heads done and a bunch of other things anyway. Thanks again.
  15. RoyG

    rear end

    Hi Ned, I might be interested in the traction bar set up if you still have it. I'm looking for a TT set up with 4.11 gears and I'd like to upgrade the entire rear suspension while I have the car up on blocks. Ordered the HD stabilizer bars and bushing and will most likely go with heavy duty springs as well. Searching for parts. Thanks
  16. Thanks Dwight, So it looks like I have the correct intake manifold! Which is a good thing. Now if the AFB is the correct one I might be good to go in that department. Is there any advantage to using an R-3 intake and air box? And, if so, how hard are they to find? I read somewhere that you can use a fuel injection system inside the R-3 air box for better performance and it is well hidden. Just looking to research my options while I have a little time (completing the body and frame work). I couldn't see what you were talking about with a "dog leg" on the water pump housing... a better picture would be great, but there sure isn't much room on your engine to take pictures! Thanks Roy
  17. The engine in the car (according to the serial number) is a '64 289 and it has the oil filter mounted below the exhaust manifold on the right side, so I'm pretty sure it is a free flow block... Not sure what the condition is, but given I want to bore it out at least .60 and replace the pistons and have the cam reground I should have a good place to start. What cam grind to use (and who to have do it) is another question. I've been told that the standard R-1/2 grind is the best overall way to go for a street car, but still looking for thoughts/opinions. HEADS: I think I've given up on R-3 heads due to the expense, so now do I try to use the stock heads that came with the engine (and have them reworked) or do I try to locate a set of HD truck heads? What are the "pros and cons".... Carb & Intake: The engine came with a standard two barrel, but the car came with five boxes of parts that a previous owner was accumulating. In one of those boxes is a Carter AFB (tag 40346 L5) that looks pretty sad and a separate four barrel intake manifold (1557144). In another box are several blower parts (blower, pullies, intake hose and mount to carb, and air filter housing), so I'm not sure if the carb/manifold go together or if they came with the blower, or are from the original R-1 engine.... Water pump housing: I've been told that the R-2 engine had a special water pump and housing. If so that means the housing on my engine might need to be replaced?? In one of the "boxes" I found a spare housing (1550913), that might have come from the engine that had the blower???? If any of this "stuff" is correct for an R-2 engine I'll clean it up and look for someone to rebuild. Other than that I'll be looking for more parts. Roy
  18. Hi Robert, Thanks for the message. I worked on these cars back in the 60's when they were new, mostly for customers of my father's dealership. Of course I exclusively owned and drove Studebakers as well, and no one else ever worked on them. I regret getting out of touch with the brand and never connecting with the Studebaker owners community before now. I wanted to find an Avanti that needed to be saved, because I wanted to feel good about bringing it back myself. I may have started with a "rougher" project than I should have, but I wanted to do everything over anyway, so what the heck, here I am. There are some great vendors that support us, and it looks like I'll be doing a lot of business with several of them! Thanks to a lot of advise I've already gotten I'm starting to figure out a general direction on my drive train. My car came with a regular issue '64 289 engine sourced by a previous owner from I know not where. It also has an automatic transmission, but I don't know if that came with the car or the engine. I also don't know what shape they are in. I'll pull the motor and start tearing it down in a couple weeks to see what I can save. In the mean time I'm looking for R-2 engine options, because it might be easier/cheaper to start with a real Avanti engine then to rebuild what I have to R-2+ specs. I've gotten some rough ideas on prices for R-3 heads and it would appear that unless I was building a pure "race car" it wouldn't justify the expense.... so a good modification of standard heads looks like the way to go. What ever block I start with will get bored out to 299 or 304.5 ci.....and most likely receive an R-2 cam. Of course I'll add the R-3 exhaust manifolds. I got a box full of blower parts, a carter four barrel, and intake manifold with the car.... so a previous owner was collecting parts I may be able to use.... more research will be needed. This will be a process for sure. Thanks for your interest. Roy
  19. I like the look of your wheels, thanks for the information. I hadn't even considered going with wheels larger than 15" and/or 7" wide on the front.. but I've just started researching. Thanks for all the information and ideas.
  20. Thanks for confirming some of my decisions are going in the right direction. I'm committed to keeping a Studebaker engine, and I want a Paxton blower, perhaps I could compromise on the R-3 idea and stick with a bored R-2 with R-3 headers. Exploring engine options now. I like the "donut" spare idea. I'm thinking some sort of five spoke racing wheel with 6" rims in front and 7-8" in the rear. I'm not worried about resale value as I'll keep this until I can't enjoy it any longer and then my son-in-law will get it. Looking forward to taking part in AOAI and SDC club events once I'm done having fun with the build.
  21. I was born and raised a Studebaker guy, and am doing this car to get back to my roots, so I will stay with the Stude engine, but I want a higher ratio TT rear end for extra "zip" off the line, but a fifth (or sixth) gear for better fuel economy on trips. I don't know the "pros and Cons" of a ford 9" R/A over the Stude unit, so more research will be needed in that area.
  22. Thanks for the comments, much appreciated. My father's dealership was in Medway Mass (Goodwin Auto Sales). Good guess on my age (74) but I still have a lot of energy and looking forward to doing this car with my step sons help (he wants to learn). I screwed up back in '85 and bought a Mercedes (230 SL) and joined the local Mercedes Club... didn't realize there was a Studebaker club until a couple years ago. Anyway, I bought a real good car that didn't need much work so I could start enjoying it right away. Drove it the first summer and then when winter came I put it in the garage to do "a few little improvements".... Twenty years and $85,000.00 later it is so perfect I don't enjoy driving it! It has sat unused for the last 4-5 years and is going up on "Bring a Trailer" next week to make room for the Avanti.
  23. I'm new here so I have a ton of questions and will need people to be patient with me.. thanks in advance. I got 63R-2158 home a few weeks ago, up on blocks, and started pulling off the unusable parts (almost everything!). The body has some damage, and a few areas where previous repairs were very poorly done (and will be cut out and redone). I have almost all the new body panels (Thanks to Dan Booth) and the body work will start in earnest very soon. The hog troughs were "toast" but will be done along with the body work. The engine came with a non Avanti '64 Studebaker 289 engine mated to an automatic transmission. I don't know yet if the transmission came with the car or the engine, but I don't care as I want to convert it to either a 5 or 6 speed standard (my thinking being that I want a standard with a high ration rear end so the extra high gear will help with highway driving. Looking for suggestions on which tranny to go with. The car was "born" with a single track 3.31 rear and I'm on the hunt for a TT unit now with 4.11 gears. Being in New England shipping costs are a concern so my focus right now is closer to home. Looking for suggestions on gear rations and potential suppliers. I've ordered the Turner front brake kit and dual master cylinder, but am leaning toward keeping the drum brakes in the rear (rebuilt of course, with all new lines). I have to either rebuild the stock 289 engine or find an Avanti engine (to rebuild)... and my goal is to end up with an R-3 clone (or as close as I can). As far as suggestions (engine wise) they are endless... block to use, what pistons/rods, which cam grind, what heads, machine work, intake manifold and carburation, and of course blower. Wheel and tire suggestions, I'm leaning toward wider wheels and tires all around, with even wider in the rear than the front (with perhaps a stock wheel/tire combo as an emergency spare). To answer a few obvious questions: I know this will not be a cheap car to build! I want something I can drive to Studebaker and Avanti events (long distance dependability important) as well as local show and shine events. I fell in love with the Avanti in '62 when my dad (a Studebaker dealer) took me to the airport in New York for the Avanti "unveiling". I was 15 years old so couldn't drive the two Avantis we sold later that year from the dealership on the road, but always wanted one..... I should have gotten it done 30-40 years ago, but this is the best I can do now.
  24. Hello Everyone, thanks for the responses, I should have checked sooner! I am in central Massachusetts. I made contact with Dave T. late last week and am meeting him Tuesday to pick up a driver's side door. Dan Booth (Nostalgic) has been awesome help with NOS body parts so far. Hope to pull the motor this weekend and then start repairing the damaged body. So far I've found the vendors that advertise in Avanti to be great to work with. My immediate goal is to get the fiberglass work done and the car in primer this summer while at the same time stripping all the old parts off the frame so I can wire brush, paint, and then start installing all new brakes, fuel lines, and perhaps upgrade suspension. At the same time I have a lot more research to do, and I'll be looking for opinions (please see "suggestions?" posts) from members that have already been down this road.
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