Nelson

Still looking. Any leads out there?

Yes the 65 and 66 flanged axles are a decent alternative to the tapered 44. I think the 64 and earlier Dana 44 axles were 18 spline? and the 65 and 66 are 27 or maybe 29 spline. Also the Dana 27 and Dana 44 for 1965 and 66 share the same axle.

Probably a tough one to answer. The newer assembly i an sure has more splines but the R3 may be bigger in diameter.

I know on the R3 prototype and I believe the Bonneville Avantis that cross brass was cut out for blower clearance. Then later it was redesigned with the relief for the blower hose incorporated in to it. I think that is right. If so, I don’t think it was removed for the R3 install unless the plenum hit it?

I kind of agree with Gunslinger. The 63 is more sporty and the 64 more eloquent. The round light cars look masculine, brutal, and somewhat more correct. The squares lights look more refined or polished. What it boils down to for me is having both and then it doesn’t stop there. Then it’s color combinations and power trains, It just doesn’t stop. The cars aren’t cheap but they really aren’t expensive in comparison to similar collector cars. Garage space seems to be the limiting factor or maybe the wife.

Looking for any amount of original upholstery vinyl material in orange/tangerine or any seat skins, seats or panels.

I seem to remember the hood brace being eliminated due to a suck mark in the hood where it was bonded. I also might be remembering wrong.😀

I agree.

I think the shift ball screws off. The control lever knobs have an Allen screw on the back side of each if I’m remembering right.

They may have raised the body from the frame to get more clearance between the floor and drive line. Possibly so more air would circulate in that area and not heat the cabin? That’s probably giving them a little too much credit though.

If it was a styling exercise, which I doubt as it cost money to add a filler panel in the fender, I would say it flunked a styling study miserably. To me the car just looked clumsy with those modified fender openings. I’ve owned three Avanti II’s and enjoyed them. I just prefer the Stude version.

I would say with certainty that in the 70’s, Avanti II owners were embarrassed to admit they were actually driving a Chevrolet powered Studebaker. I remember how proud they were when they took the Studebaker off the deck lid and replaced it with a Avanti II emblem. I felt I was paying dues for an Avanti II club magazine. So I just dropped out for many years. I think those days are behind us now and I’m again a member. It’s amazing that in the 70’s the consensus in the club magazine was the lowered front end on the Stude Avanti made it look nose heavy and the fat fender, jacked up Avanti II somehow looked right and Studebaker just missed the boat in styling.

Wow. I’m surprised the pads would go the 500 mile race. Aren’t the Novis pretty heavey?

The vanity I believe is the same as used in the 64 Lark.

I guess the extension housing is pretty long on the three speed manual.

Probably the standard three speed stick.

This is a wag but the STP Turbine car?

Those hp ratings are certainly skewed to the low side. With an R2 you probably have about 3 pounds boost at 4800 rpm. Impellers with minimum clearance would be at 6 pounds at 5500 rpm. I imagine those figures were conceived after looking over the potential drag racing classes

Bob Palma was a technical editor for the Studebaker Drivers Club. Bob died of cancer earlier this year. I thought everybody into Studebaker’s new Bob. He was a real patriot for the Studebaker name and one heck of a nice guy.

Number one is the furthest cylinder to the front. It is on the driver’s side front. Number two is right across from number one and is the front cylinder on the passenger side. Three is next to one and four next to two and so on. Firing order is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2. The rotor is pointed toward the back of the carb when the firing order starts. The rotor is pointed at the number one plug wire on the cap when the timing mark is at the pointer on the compression stroke. Note: it is at the top dead compression once every two revolutions. I think I would see if you are getting any spark Pull any plug wire and plug a spark plug into it. Lay the plug on the block and turn the engine over while looking for a spark. Don’t put it on the valve cover as it won’t be grounded if the cover has good gaskets and o rings at the hood downs. Try cleaning the points with solvent. Do you have 12v at the coil when you try to start the engine? You might try just hot wiring the coil right to the battery as a last resort.

Great photos in your drop box.

Leo. Good idea on the marine varnish. I never thought about water coming through there. What I did when I was trying to find the leak was to run water through the cowl vent with the door open and my head under the dash looking for a leak.That’s when the the water level came up high enough in the A pillar and started flowing out the lower hinge pocket onto the molded rubber threshold and into the footwell. The carpet would get wet near the door jamb on that particular Avanti.

Shop manual…..what a novel idea haha.🤔

So I can basically loosen the straps and tilt the tank to access the sender?

So, how is this problem progressing. It will be interesting to see how it turns out.