Jred Posted April 25, 2021 Report Posted April 25, 2021 Brake lights weren't working this evening so i checked the fuse and it was bad. Replaced it. They kinda worked for a bit. A few pumps and they stopped working but the fuse looked fine. New to these majestic beasts and the work manual is enroute, what am I missing? Headlights, blinkers, running lights, interior lights and most the dash lights work. Reverse lights are hit or miss depending on where I have the automatic shifter at.
mfg Posted April 25, 2021 Report Posted April 25, 2021 Nice clean engine!....I'd replace the hydraulic stoplight switch....They fail on a fairly regular basis.
IndyJimW Posted April 25, 2021 Report Posted April 25, 2021 I’d replace the fuse again. Just because it’s new and looks ok doesn’t mean it’s working. I’ve wasted many an hour over a fuse that looked good. Good luck, Jim Wood
Avanti83 Posted April 25, 2021 Report Posted April 25, 2021 If the fuse is bad again, I'd start looking for the cause which in these cars can be proper grounding. IAC, for important lights, I'd install an in-line circuit breaker.
studegary Posted April 25, 2021 Report Posted April 25, 2021 Instead of replacing the fuse (again), measure the resistance across it. If blown, it will show as an open. I am thinking that you probably have a stop light switch problem.
1inxs Posted April 25, 2021 Report Posted April 25, 2021 2 hours ago, studegary said: Instead of replacing the fuse (again), measure the resistance across it. If blown, it will show as an open. I am thinking that you probably have a stop light switch problem. I agree! There may be a direct short at switch or switch problem.
Jred Posted April 25, 2021 Author Report Posted April 25, 2021 5 hours ago, mfg said: Nice clean engine!....I'd replace the hydraulic stoplight switch....They fail on a fairly regular basis. Thanks. The hydraulic stoplight switch is the piece I highlighted in blue. Apologies for the newbie question, I’m on a learning curve. 4 hours ago, Avanti83 said: If the fuse is bad again, I'd start looking for the cause which in these cars can be proper grounding. IAC, for important lights, I'd install an in-line circuit breaker. improper grounding would be more than the ground from the battery? Somewhere along the wires from the tail lights forward? thanks to all that chimed in and barring with me here. Love driving this machine so making it road worthy and semi safe is the goal. Took it to a cars and coffee meet here in LA and saw that there was a really nice Studebaker Avanti in red with black interior. Anyways... back to the regularly scheduled program.
Jred Posted April 25, 2021 Author Report Posted April 25, 2021 New hydraulic switch ordered. learning something new each day.
Avanti83 Posted April 25, 2021 Report Posted April 25, 2021 1 hour ago, Jred said: improper grounding would be more than the ground from the battery? Somewhere along the wires from the tail lights forward? Everything (almost) on a fiberglass car has to be grounded through a seperate wire attached to the housing and a ground usually part of the wiring harness going to the battery or frame. All the lights will have grounds to them. Check those attachments for contact and corrosion. Corrosion will increase the resistance and cause issues like you are having.
Jred Posted April 25, 2021 Author Report Posted April 25, 2021 45 minutes ago, Avanti83 said: Thanks for that.
mfg Posted April 25, 2021 Report Posted April 25, 2021 1 hour ago, Jred said: New hydraulic switch ordered. learning something new each day. Good move!, and the brakes do not need to be bled if you carefully unscrew the old switch and immediately install the new one.....Good luck!.....Ed
IndyJimW Posted April 26, 2021 Report Posted April 26, 2021 Pull the plug on the switch and use a jumper wire to complete the circuit. If it works the switch is bad, if not it could be in the turn signal switch. Good luck, Jim Wood
IndyJimW Posted April 26, 2021 Report Posted April 26, 2021 23 hours ago, studegary said: Instead of replacing the fuse (again), measure the resistance across it. If blown, it will show as an open. I am thinking that you probably have a stop light switch problem. Here in the shop we have received many warnings and a Federal RECALL of cheap China made fuses. In the last 10 years I have seen a hand full of glass fuses that are defective. The center element of the fuse is not blown but the end caps are not fully attached to the element. These will ohm OK (0 ohms) and test OK for voltage (12.6 volts), but will not carry amps. The only way you can find them is to Load test the system with a LoadPro or use a small headlight with alligator clips. Imagine a 12 gauge wire that is cut except for 1 stain of wire. It will pass a ohm and voltage test. So yes, I would replace the fuse again, its cheap and may save a lot of time. Good luck, Jim Wood
mbreaz Posted October 1, 2021 Report Posted October 1, 2021 Are there ground wires from the electrical system to the frame? Battery to frame Fuse block to frame Back end ground somewhere? Thanks for pictures when you post comments, "a picture is better than a thousand words".
WayneC Posted October 2, 2021 Report Posted October 2, 2021 Do you need an electrical diagram? Do you have an Avanti workshop manual? According to the electrical diagram the fusebox is grounded to the frame mount of the voltage regulator (black wire).
Kodjo Posted October 4, 2021 Report Posted October 4, 2021 (edited) I've replaced the switch twice. Worked both for a week or so. I would make a new brake light switch on the pedal like: New mechanical Brake Light switch It is easy, one hour job max. Edited October 4, 2021 by Kodjo
Jred Posted October 7, 2021 Author Report Posted October 7, 2021 I’m not getting notifications from this site but a new fuse and the new switch did the trick. Thanks all
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