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  1. You might want to post a pic of the wheel you are looking for (I assume since you used the singular that you are looking for just one)
  2. From your description I am not sure exactly what the problem is. If the motor works but doesn't unlatch the trunklid and allow it to spring up, perhaps the latch catch (the steel rod thats bent into a "U" shape) is too tight and needs to be adjusted a bit. If not, peruse ebay for door actuators to see if you can find a match.
  3. Are you certain your booster is not the one that came on the car? They can be rebuilt, and/or See if this vendor can help you out: https://www.powerbrakebooster.com/
  4. Sorry, my last post didn't turn out like I thought, I tried to post a url to Bob's Studebaker website that referenced an Avanti conversion to rack & pinion steering.
  5. Seems to me that you should get your steering checked by a professional alignment shop to see if there are any issues beyond the normal, caused by wear or improper settings; even if all is in proper condition/adjustment, your car won't handle like a car with modern rack & pinion steering, so you can't expect that. You may have to search for an old-time mechanic that understands the suspensions on old cars. This is from a post I copied years ago: Front Wheel Toe-In 1/8" Caster Angle (at Curb Load) +3/4° to -3/4° (0° is preferred) Front Wheel Camber Angle 0° to +1° (1/2° Greater Favored on Drivers Side) Make adjustments under zerk fitting located on upper outer pin, which goes through control arm and king pin. Adjustments are made using a 1/4" allen wrench. One common 'loose steering' issue is wear in the bellcrank pin and its bushings (part 1209-10 in the parts book).
  6. Congratulations, lookin' good!
  7. Here's a website that advertises Recaro replacement leather covers: https://www.lseat.com/categories/genuine-leather/recaro.html
  8. There was a post about upholstery for Avanti Recaro seats about 5 to 7 years ago on this site, but I was not able to find it (I think older posts have been dropped from this website ...kinda sad since lots of good info was lost with those deletions). In short, an Avanti owner contracted with a Texas shop for new seat covers for his 1980 Avanti. The covers were in turn farmed-out to a company in China. The Avanti owner supplied his old covers as patterns (front Recaros and the rear seat). The process took 3 or 4 months, I believe, but he was happy with the results. The middleman was leatherseats.com
  9. Also be aware that the front face of modern car radios are uniform in size, in so-called "DIN" modular size (1 Din or 2 Din height), all are same width & DIN heights, and all are too large for an Avanti dashboard. What does fit nicely is a Blaupunkt radio as used in many "sporty" cars of the 1970's, particularly Porsche, but if you can find a good one (with a tuner for American AM/FM bandwidths), they are pricey.
  10. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1502-how-to-wire-an-electronic-tachometer-easy-as-1-2-3/
  11. Avanti Motors bought base (lowest horsepower) Corvette engines from Chevrolet in a lot purchase, so no wonder that your Avanti engine is similar to your Corvette engines.
  12. I think the '67-'69 Camaro/Firebird/TransAM/Chevy II distribution block (with appropriate thread adapters where needed) is a better bolt-in possibility.
  13. Randy, I found the kit you referenced here: https://musclecarresearch.com/valve-kit-wagner-amc-dist-switch But, I don't think my distribution block has such parts as they show. The block does not come apart (cannot be disassembled) I did find a distribution block at Jegs that looks very much like the original in my car, for '67-'69 Camaro/Firebird/TransAM/Chevy II. I did order one some years back and found several of the threaded holes for brake line fittings were larger than for the Avanti. The GM block may be usable with thread adapter fittings. Regrettably i am getting too old and feeble to do much with my cars anymore, so my '71 may continue to sit. shown below is the old block compared to the (new) GM block.
  14. Thanks, I was hoping for a less-expensive (much simpler to implement) original replacement valve.
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