Avanti83
-
Posts
1,282 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Avanti83
-
-
Mike
Pre-smog SBC's aren't Hemi's nor BBC's power wise but unless you have driven them you won't know how nice an engine they are. They rev quickly and there is just a effortless feel to what they do. That was totally lost when the emissions era hit.
Your's should recreate that and you and the wife should be happy with it. Good choice.
Best, Bob
-
Certainly an excellent fit in an SBC powered Avanti, Ceramic coated?
Secondly, custom head pipes or do the OEM fit?
Bob
-
Bruce, if you can would you post a shot of the drivers side. Those are exactly what I would design to clear as they closely follow the OEM path.
Nice, Bob
-
I'll say true.
IIRC, A couple of things happen mechanically when the key is turned to on but the start wiring is activated through the switch in the column lower area.
-
In a 78 engine needing to replace the pistons is call a gift. This now gives you the opportunity to actually put together a set of components that will bring the SBC back to life as before the emissions parts these years used.
You can now match the cam to the CR and get the performance that will make the car much more fun to drive. I would have recommended Aluminum heads as they cool better, allow a bit higher compression and flow better but as you have a set of cast irons ones just go with them and do a good valve job and, maybe match the ports if you are so inclined. That's what I've done on my 74 383. Head work will make a difference but I wouldn't spend a lot on the mods.
Instead of going all out on headers, remember the OEM Ram Horn style flow very well for a stock setup and fit what you have for a exhaust system.
If you are going with your stock exhaust system use the 2" and get it on the road. If you are replacing everything then go 2 1/2".
I just can't get excited about adding headers as there will be little to no gain in performance and there will be a bit of cost upside. Secondly, cast iron holds the heat better than header and takes it away from the engine compartment through the exhaust. I say this as the owner of two pretty stout SBC's and the header trip is just not high on my needs list. Also, wrap the pipes to help keep the engine bay heat down.
I'm not down on headers, I have them on my 54K SBC powered but I'd just like to spend on better improvements.
My 74 2 1/2" exhaust system.
Bob
-
Just an uneducated quess but T-bird - yes Corvette - no.
Vette was a two-seat sports car, T-bird four seat personal luxury car.
Bob
-
PK, I purchased an 89 convertible last December that had been resto-modded with the installation of a 383 stroker SBC, Computer adjustable 4L60 AOD trans and a Ford 9" rear end with 4.86 gears. Yes, it is nasty and more crazy fast than I drive, but like the way it gets to cruising speed in a hurry. I'm just driving the car locally as it loves to gulp gas. My other Avanti, the 76 has its original 400 motor in it that was taken apart and rebuilt over 3 1/2 years ago, turning out 365 hp and 460 pounds torque when put back into the car. I've put over 19k on it since the rebuild driving to Gettysburg, South Bend, Colorado Springs, St. Louis, and Dover to meets.
The 383 is not the typical route for engine replacement that I have seen, as the 350 crate motor would be more reasonable, quicker than the 305 and still be fairly economical. Personally if I was putting another engine in an Avanti, I'd go the LS route. I know there's a lot of extra work with the LS with putting in a high pressure electric fuel pump in the tank and the computer instal, but those motors are great running, have a lot of power and are reliable.
This is a good summary. My 74 has a 383 with a T56 that is not road legal yet but on my back road even with the 3.55 posi that does well off the line. When finished, I'll probably put a 4:10 or so in it but we will see. The 383 uses a 400 crank in a 350 block and that is the only SBC that needs to be externally balanced. If you stay with your 4-speed auto it will require you to change the flex plate and harmonic balancer. Both are known for their torgue as they have the longest stroke of any SBC. It's usually easier to find the 383 as they are based on the 350 block. 400's were used in a limited time frame and are not known to come with good breathing heads so if you wish to go big, plan on a change in heads or at least a major valve job and smoothing the passages. Most decent crate engines have all that done. If I had a 400 I would have started there but the 383 was cheap for a number of reasons so I bought it.
Let's get to what I would do with a clean slate. LS without a doubt.
The things that need to be changed are motor mounts and conversion mounts are available. Exhaust changes to find the correct headers/manifolds and the installation of the computer system. You will also need to have the computer reprogrammed to eliminate it's looking for VATS and some other input you won't have available. I talked with a guy that had done several LS3 conversions into older Chevrolets and he said that the reprogramming was about $85 in the Grand Rapids, Mi area.
But for the price of a 383 crate motor, I'll bet you can find a low mileage LS with tranny ready to drop in and get the benefits of the newer power/mileage that doesn't exist in the pre-computer era. www.car-parts.com (Look Here)
As far as adding TPI to an existing engine you are looking at minimally $1000 up to $3500. Not a problem if you have a great engine to start with but for the $2-3K for a commercial conversion you are well on your way to an LS conversion. The conversion will help driveability but I doubt one would see sufficient mileage improvement to warrant it. I have a Holley Avenger EFI on my 355 in my 83 and it solved a problem that I chased for a while so it was worth the cost to me but anymore, I'd just go LS.
Bob
-
No I don't, but If all else fails, what I would do is take your belts to your FLAPS and have them look at 1981-82 Camaro with 305 and AC,PS, PB. Use your's to check for correct length. Then you will have the belts and numbers.
Same advice if you use Rock Auto. Bob
-
IIRC the reason you can push start an automatic is the pump is powered off the tranny output so I would say false as the pump is located in the front.
Don't know Stude tranny's but GM and Ford were that way early on and the number of stages shouldn't matter unless one was drive from the back.
Bob
-
Really nervous about the frame. That combined with the cost of the front glass and a salvage title would make me shy away. Just better to buy one in good shape without all the issues.
-
SI catalog says 63-85 Avanti #516059 $18/ea.
My 74 and 83 take the same joints so I would suspect that your 84 would also, same setup. Personally, I like Spicer/Dana or Precision so I buy mine locally at the local 4X4 suppliers. I think the last ones were $16/ea Spicer/Dana and no shipping. If incorrect, I can take them back.
IIRC, Indy Jim is correct with the 1 1/16" OD.
-
The bumper can go, you need to do some cutting on it to keep the rear portion to mount the radiator and bumper properly. Not hard, I can post a pix or two.
Secondly, it will leave a couple of larger holes that are behind the grill and the need to replace some grill bars that were cut out to add the bumper. I'm doing all that to my 74 so it will look a lot better.
However, just taking it out and not fixing anything looks much better than the added bumper. JMHO
No matter which year it is 1966-83 with chrome bumpers it will have an SBC that represents the year of Mfg as Avanti bought them from GM to meet that years emissions standard. If you don't like the SBC or trans any year up to 1998 will bolt in with no changes unless you upgrade to an overdrive automatic and that is just a modest mod at the tranny rear mount.
My 74 has a 70 383 SBC/ T56 combo and my 83 has a 98 roller cammed engine/ 200R4 combo. Worry more about condition, hog troughs, frame, interior etc. I can buy a pretty good SBC for the cost of the just the hog troughs with out installation.
Bob
-
Looking at a 1981 II. South Bend production? Engine choices? Tranny choices? Crossover year? Emission choices? RQB serials switched to 12AAV..........?
To add some more, 1981 was the first year of the 17 digit VIN for the industry so probably for the Avanti, also. The RQB numbers carried on so the one you are looking at will have one. My 83 has both the 17 digit VIN and a distinct RQB number. Vin on the dash, RQB on the door jamb.
Stude frame, std power as previously described, SB production. Yours represents essentially the configuration from 1966 to the Blake rubber bumpered cars a couple of years later. There will be additions like side lights, extra bumpers different cubic in SBC's but the power will be whatever they could purchase from Chevrolet in the some what performance line. Not much of that from 73 till the late 80's however,
Pretty hard to tell them apart without a score card. I assume that you are purchasing on condition not year.
Bob
-
Thanks, Bob.
I still wonder why i couldn't use the existing switch in the side of the block and wire it up as it was originally. Isn't that how the car was set up originally in '85 with the electric fan?
Jim
I guess you can use what exists and hopefully someone with one will post an exact mounting location for the probe.
If it were mine however, I use a newer replacement. Why? Well, The old one is 30 years old give or take and I just don't like the inability to fit the probe into the engine. Nobody uses anything like that in the current OEM market, everything now is located where the probe can read the coolant temperature directly.
Will it work? Well it must have been OK back in the day as you don't see a lot of Avanti's on the side of the road with cooling issues
. It's just that my SBC's would take a lot on money to replace so I'd like to give them the best chance I can to stay alive. I did read the reviews that you posted and I guess if I had to do it over again I buy something else. However, Mine's installed and I do have a manual over ride. I also wired it so if it quits entirely, I can run a jumper to the fan relay to get it running.
JMHO, Bob
-
I'll say true.
My 83 window sticker says "wheel covers" as standard equipment and my earlier literature shows four options with wheel covers standard. The literature doesn't have a print date but the II's shown have the added crash bumper so probably mid - late 70's.
-
This is what I use. http://derale.com/products/electric-fans/fan-controllers/adjustable/7-25-standard-thermal-fan-clutch2013-10-18-11-52-51789251222-detail
The item you show looks like a thermal probe but it won't go into an engine nor fit into the radiator fins like most so I suspect it was held by a bracket close to the radiator in the exit air flow.
The one I showed you screws into the intake or head, my choice, and not between the radiator fins. I like it located in the head.
Personally, I wouldn't do anything with the one you have except remove it and send it to it's final resting place. Tape off the wires to look good and use a newer version. If you go with the one I mentioned, it can be automatically turned on when the A/C runs and also has a provision for a manual switch. I will be using both on my 74.
Bob
-
I'm a fan of Carter. Here is where I put mine. Probably easier places to get to but it's under the tank and the outlet feeds directly to the outside of the frame. This is obviously a II but I think it will fit the other side as well.
Summit Racing has a decent selection of pressure and volume.
Bob
-
Mike
As Bruce and I said earlier a crate engine is not a bad idea if you need to rebuild your current engine.
If you just want to change the cam be sure the builder matches the compression ratio and the cam. 8.5 with the correct cam can make a pretty good setup. If you want higher compression the 9.8 should work depending on the quality of pump premium in your area, then you'll want a different cam. Be sure he also knows the "Quench" for an SBC. IIRC they really like about 35 thousands and if you change heads "or keep yours actually" it's an important number for both performance and ability to not ping. There are usually enough head gasket choices to get it close.
For reference http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=124935
As far as springs, you have the answer from Bruce. Just for info - Your SBC engine/trans set up is 100-200 pounds lighter than the original Studebaker combo.
I'm glad you pulled the engine, a lot of good things can happen when you can clearly see what needs help.
Good luck, Bob
-
The best place still remains Ebay, here and the SDC forum. I will say that it looks better than I expected from your initial description. Price remains difficult without pictures of the underside. It does have a decent interior and the body looks quite good as well as the chrome. Driver quality.
At a minimum with frame and hog trough issues $5-6K, if they don't need much repair probably $7-8K as it sits.My 83 with minimal HT and frame issues and high end leather interior went for $7500 three years ago.
JMHO, Bob -
Mike
A thought on SBC's. They are about as straight forward as any engine you can work on. Not much to get into trouble with.
If you have a leaking plug it's time to get the engine out and replace all the plugs and add a gasket set. Nothing good comes from leaving the engine in and not doing a complete reseal.
If you like the way it runs then you are OK, but if want it to run like a good Avanti/SBC 400 should run, I'd look at the heads and cam.
I use Nasty Z28 to decode SBC parts. http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-engine-code-stampings.php Find the numbers on your heads and look them up here. Another way to access them is to Google "SBC heads # (your heads)" and see what you find as far a compression ratio, valve size, etc.
The best way to find the correct cam for your use is to call/chat with Lunati or Comp Cams. Their tech folks are good and they can recommend what you need for your requirements. I don't have any experience directly with Edelbrock but a well respected company that I would think can give excellent recommendations on both heads and cam.
One thing I quit doing was just asking what cam works from the general public. To many variables or lack of experience. Either ask a local SBC expert or talk to the cam/head companies as there have been way to many advances in head/cam technology in the last few years.
On the plus side, Nothing wakes up an SBC like the correct heads and cam.
Setting in my pole barn is a half finished 74 with a 383 SBC backed with a T56 six-speed. It has a Lunati cam and the early big valve iron heads at 10:1 compression. In the little I've driven it, it will drive you back into the seat. It's like being back in the 60's only better.
Lastly, before you go any farther. Do a compression and leak down check on the engine before pulling it and then open up the bottom end and check bearing and rod clearances. If they are off there's no sense in throwing a couple of grand at a worn engine. If it's worn then you might consider a crate engine with the upgrades in place. Probably less expensive even in your neck of the world.
Good luck, a great running SBC is a very enjoyable ride. Bob
-
Dear Avanti Friends,
Mine is a 1982 Avanti II and the build sheet for my car call out "Hella" driving lights. What is actually on the car is a pair of Bosch driving lights. Did Avanti Motor Company use whatever they could get at the time or is there a specific brand of driving light that they used in each year? Do you think mine got changed sometime along the line or could the Bosch have been original?
Thanks,
Bob Conant
Bradenton, FL
My 83 said Hella Lights and came with Hella lights. My guess is if the build sheet said Hella it came with Hella but as Bruce says, you can never be sure with Avanti's.
-
That will work but false. Take the 1/4" plug out of the Tee in the gas line under one of the doors depending on original or II.
-
What is the thread info? Might change mine too.
BTW nice touch on the carbon fiber look.
Thinking of doing mine in an engine turned finish.
Thanks, engined turned would be a nice touch also. Thread 9/16 NF 18 Bob
-
Any knob you use just needs to thread on the existing shaft and have a provision to use the push button to move the shifter.
A couple I've used.
If you decide to progress, I can give you the thread info, the rest is up to your imagination.
Bob
Avanti on TV
in Avanti Pub
Posted
I'll never miss a chance to see a well done Avanti. Just record the program, I will, and skip the cr@p and see what's been done.
Heck, I might find something I want to try on my 74.
Bob