Avanti83
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Posts posted by Avanti83
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Excellent followup BIll. Let us know your driving opinions and post a couple of pictures, if possible. Bob
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Because the Avanti II has the belly-button SBC and associated trannies, it's easy and cheap to bench race and tailor the car to one's own needs and tastes.
Also, I'd guess it's because Avanti are so dirt-cheap. There's no particular loss of value in modifying a car which is worth next to nothing to begin with.
I bow to no man in my love for Studebakers and Avanti. I just don't mistake low production and rarity with market value.
jack vines
Absolutely, as well as the fact that Avanti Motors would do about anything to them to sell 'em, so they were the original modifiers.
To wit, my 74 4-speed should have had a 400 SBC, the OP didn't want no stinkin' truck motor so Altman put a 350 in it. If he wanted a available overdrive it would have magically appeared I'll bet. So how much more modified is it now with the t-56 replacing the 4-speed than when it was delivered from Avanti Motors with a 350.
The 66 and up were essentially modified cars from the factory if the OP asked for a non-standard change/addition.
Bob
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The best part about the 700R4 and it's variants is availability. There is still an excellent chance of finding one in great condition, bolting it in and driving away. Not much chance with a 2004R anymore. If you need a rebuild then it's close to a toss up. The mount is pretty straight forward, If you want to use your existing mount, it can be trimmed, but the drive shaft will need to be shortened, However I'll bet a Camaro shaft would work, just measure the length and search the yards. So the cost doesn't need to be in the thousands if you don't want to spend that much.
I have a 2004R in my 83 but a 700R4 would have worked. Remember the 700R4 was offered in 83 so it will fit fine. Bob
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Hi,
Thanks for the replys.What year(s) Saturn air deflector would work?Also is it visable or fairly hidden.If I was to go the holes/louver route,any suggestions as to where to put them.Anybody else experience this & how did you slve it.
Thanks
Bob
This should cover the Saturn air deflector questions. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?42115-Avanti-Saturn-Deflector-21031161-Installation
About the only place to vent hot air is the wheel wells unless you take it out the hood. I just don't know enough about the high and low pressure areas under the hood to comment on the efficiency of cutting holes in the inner fenders. Most folks don't want to vent their hood but I'm doing just that.
Here's a post from SDC forum of hood mods.Even if you don't want to go that way, and most won't, here it is.
Bob
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Welcome, Be sure to check the frame, particularly from behind the doors and over the rear axle. Check the rear cross-member also. It can be repaired with time and patience if not to bad. I'm salvaging a 74 currently with new hog troughs, rear cross member and some frame bottom sections.
Check the front suspension, parts are about $900 for a complete repair and paint is also pricey. No difference with the Hawk as they are basically the same car suspension wise.
SBC's and attendant parts and running gear are about as cheap as it gets. A lot of us have done tons of repair work so don't be afraid to ask questions.
Bob
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My 74 is the Ford bolt pattern (4 1/2) both front and rear so no adapter in the rear.
My front suspension also has the Turner conversion with the 97 S10 4X4 calipers.
I just pulled one of my wheels out of storage and measured back spacing. I get 4 3/4" back spacing on a 17 X 8" Wheel. This is the wheel that required the 1/4" spacer. It is a Ford supplied wheel for the 99 to 04 Mustang. I call them Bullitt Style. Picture below.
These fit the rear with no spacer. The rear wheels on my 83 (15 X 8") have about the same back spacing and fit very well but they are aftermarket.
Hope that helps, Let me know if you need more. Bob
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Thanks! im going to double check and have a friend help me measure Today. Ill post m findings.
I also have lowered my car 2 inches with some Eaton springs, so i have to stay at an over all tire wheel combo height of 25.5 inches to clear the front fenders while turning over bumps and into drive ways.
Thanks again for the info, good place to start!
I just looked at the specs I left and they are for the 9 and 10 in widths so they are not what I thought I was posting. The info on my 74 is accurate about the year and size of the OEM wheels as well as the data on the 83. I used less backspacing on the front than the rear with the 83. That's probably why I need the spacer on the OEM Ford wheels. The 99-04 have less backspacing than the 05 and up Mustang wheels.
Sounds like you're on your way but I can still measure a few things if needed. Bob
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My 74 has 17 X 8 Mustang Bullitt Wheels (OEM) from the 1999-2004 model years. It has Turner brakes and needs about 1/4" spacer to run on the front. Rear fits fine.
I pulled these specs off the internet.
94-04 18x9" bullitt: backspacing: 5.94" offset: 24mm
05-09 18x9" bullitt: backspacing: 6.3" offset: 34mm
94-04 18x10" bullitt: backspacing: 6.3" offset: 22mm
05-09 18x10" bullitt: backspacing: 7.2" offset: 45mmMy 83 runs 15 X 8 Ultra wheels with the Lavesque (sp?) conversion on the front with no issues nor spacers. Rear is fine also.
I can measure them if necessary.
Good Luck. Bob
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I agree with Gunslinger on finding the source of the issue before applying a bandaid. This will cover the Saturn install and part # http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?42115-Avanti-Saturn-Deflector-21031161-Installationbut also let me suggest that you spend $30 at Harbor Freight and buy their IR temp unit. You can look all over the engine compartment for issue. They also work quite well on exhaust issues to find non-firing cylinders.
Something like this http://www.harborfreight.com/Non-Contact-Infrared-Thermometer-With-Laser-Targeting-60725.html
Bob
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If you want to get cooler air to the engine, another option is the cowl air inlet. Open the firewall into the cowl intake and plumb it to the blower intake. A look around the net and auto stores will yield an air filter option that will work. Less chance of major water intrusion and other detritus. Remember to keep it sealed as the cowl vent also supplies air to the interior.
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Be sure to get the offset/back spacing close to what you are currently running to be safe on fitment.
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For those of you in and around Bloomington, IL, I am the proud owner of my dad's Black 88 Avanti coupe. He passed away in October after owning it since new (he also had a 1971 Avanti that was sold for the '88).It has 32,000 miles on it and aside from stalling a 2 times early in the trip, it made the 130 mile journey from the suburbs to country with no problems.
If anyone knows any reputable repair shops in the region, pass it along. Due to a floaty ride, squishy breaks, and rough idle, it needs a little TLC from a good mechanic.
Thanks
Enjoy the car, it will be a great ride. As far as a mechanic, remember that it is essentially a Chevrolet so if you can find a shop that works on Chevrolets of that era, they can do these. Just in case you didn't know. Welcome and enjoy, Bob
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Well, pooh!
The car was sold last night. Thanks to all (esp Devildog) who helped!
So my long, lonely search goes on.
Ole' Joe
Sorry you missed it but you'll find one if you keep looking. The selling season is just starting so keep monitoring Ebay, Craigslist and other internet selling sights. Don't forget Turning Wheels and AOAI Magazine.
Probably the only thing you missed that was important is being present when a knowledgeable individual goes over the car and points out the important things to look for. Bob
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Here's a recent discussion on purchasing a later Avanti from the SDC Forum. If you are not a member, I'd suggest joining as there is much more interaction on there. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?87262-Avanti-II-value
I own a 74 and 83, and IMHO, the 83 is the best built of the series from 66 to 83. It's the same basic car but just assembled better with higher end materials. In the SDC discussion I'm sweetolbob so if you need more info just ask. Your numbers are about right for a very nice driver. If you post pictures we can get more specific but the under carriage, Frame and hog troughs, are the major issues to look at as well as the need for paint. We can discuss other issues like engine and trans as you get more interested in the purchase.
Hog trough reference. This will give you an idea of what the Avanti looks like underneath. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?55565-Back-to-conventional-Hog-Troughs
This what it looks like with the rocker panels reattached. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?60090-74-Avanti-body-repair-after-Hog-Troughs
Welcome, Bob
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They aren't hooked up for backup lights, look lower.
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Nostalgic and Myers but if you want a used one, why not fix the one you have? I've done a couple and they turned out fine.
Not Avanti's however.
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A few thoughts from my 83 which I'll assume is relatively close to your 82. In this period GM was starting to leave the emissions doldrums but were still aways from decent computer controlled performance. Your computer control system is an almost complete separate wiring harness from the rest of the car and the computer is designed to run with the dissy, carb and cam combo that the engine has.
IMHO, changing anything without a complete dissy, carb and cam change will result in little if any gains in performance and reliability. Changing to headers without other changes will give a better look but little if any performance changes. As a second thought, I believe the 82 steering box is somewhat larger than the earlier ones. I could check my 83 vs 74 but they are still bundled up for the winter. To check fit, order what you want to try from Summit or other big time supplier. If they don't fit and they haven't been installed, you can send them back. From a cost standpoint, GM put their Ram Horn manifolds on there highest performance SBC's because they flow pretty well. I went to 2 1/2" on both of mine.
If I were to do what you are suggesting (and I did), save your money and buy a crate engine. I'm not convinced that your/my 305 can be brought up to anywhere near crate level performance for a small amount of funds.
I bought my 355 off Ebay for $1200 from a builder that put it together and the customer disappeared so that covered his investment after the down payment. It will kick the cr@p out of a 305 with the same money in modifications.
I bought the 383 stroker engine in my 74 for much less than that.
I'm not necessarily here to talk about my good deals on engines but make a point about dollars vs performance. In your neck of the woods there are a few engine builder that advertise on Ebay and the internet and have some excellent deals on crate motors. If you don't thrust them or my way of finding engines, Jegs usually has free shipping on their crate engines. PackardV8 on both forums also does a great job of building engines to exactly the requirements you could want.
To end the soliloquy, I'd buy a crate motor and not try to piecemeal performance into your 305. And if you are dead serious about the best setup for the car, a newer LS with computer and trans should cost about the same as a decent crate engine but will require a decent amount of installation headaches.
JMHO, Bob
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I was gonna say because he liked marsupials, but that would be wrong.
Christopher Walken would never have installed the pouch however.
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If you don't count the excellent body work, great paint color and the Camaro? mirrors then the answer is true.
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Bruce has done a good job of describing the tranny differences. A couple of added thoughts though.
200R4's are getting harder to find, and as described, will need to be rebuilt. Generally, $1500+. That is also the cost of a 700R4 rebuild but that's not necessary if you can find one in good shape.The 83 Avanti's had 700R4's installed OEM but used a 3:08 or lower # rear gearing. It's the combination of trans type and rear gearing that needs to be considered.
Both are longer that the 350 both in length and mounting pad length so your rear crossmember will either need to be modified or replaced. I built one for for my T56 in the 74 and I'll add the post if necessary.
Both will require a TV cable so your carb needs the correct linkage. No big deal but necessary.
Let's consider a third option. The later electrically controlled 700's are 4L60E's and variations of that. They would be the most available as they are newer and were used in bigger cars and pickup for a number of years. I know the controller costs are higher but, i believe that they can adjust shift points and they also eliminate the TV cable which can be problematic if adjusted incorrectly.
My 2000 Silverado had a 4L??E trans with a 3:77 rearend and shifted just right. That's with the GM computer but my point is for a few hundred more you can get the best of all worlds.
JMHO, Bob
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Yes, it's not that hard, but the car must be jacked up so the tail can be tipped way down. Also a good engine leveler has to be employed as the angle needs to be straightened out as you lower it.
You do risk the firewall as it takes lots of guidence by more than one person to do it.
That it do.
From this post
http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?71670-Avanti-ingests-SBC-T56-combo
Bob
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Considering I can drop an SBC/T56 or SBC/700R4 into a later model, I'll say - True. Of course, the radiator and other incumberances would be removed but there were no conditions in the question.
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I used one like this. Can't say if it's exactly the one but close.
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RQB3263...Please enlighten me...im going to install an inline fuel filter on the frame rail.....in the fuel line, on the frame rail under the pass. door area is a small rectangular device...could be a drain i dont know ...doesnt look like a shutoff valve but maybe it is i hope ....what is it ??? YOU CAN ALWAYS CALL ME ...352-475-3190H OR 386 466-6434C RQB3263
It's a drain, should be a brass tee with IIRC 3/8" NPT.
I plumbed a fuel filter and shutoff valve in-line before the filter so I could shutoff the fuel from the tank to change the filter. The whole assembly is just before the Tee in the line otherwise the tank will drain without the shutoff.
To drain the tank initially, I parked the Avanti outside and drained the tank into several shallow pans. It can hold over 15 gallons. If the tee drain plug is tough to turn you can disconnect/cut the rubber line in the engine compartment.
My pictures are too far away to reference until next week. Bob
Avanti Cowl Induction Hood and Gas Struts
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted
Weather's better, I'm pumped to get going on the 74 Avanti and tired of waiting for my favorite painter to get some free time so I'm moving ahead to prepare for painting the little guy myself. I haven't pulled a paint gun trigger in anger for more than 10 years but I will now.
First steps are to get the cowl induction hood ready and add gas struts to the hood. The body is pretty close to paintable due to the work I put into it last year. It needs a final coat of High Build but it's darn close and one more sanding will make it ready for paint.
Over the last two weeks the hood has made it to initial primer but it needs a lot more smoothing. I like the look but it needs a couple small modifications. I put it on today and added the struts. The struts are from a mid-2000 Jeep Wrangler and the brackets were purchased from the supplier that was mentioned a few days ago in a post. Lift Supports Depot. About $55 delivered to Michigan for all the items.
The hood probably weighs about half again as much as the OEM set up but the struts help lift it and hold it up just fine. I'd like another 5-10 pounds of lift but it's ok. The site says the struts generate 28#s of force so they should be just right for a stock setup.
I also have a pair of 2015 Mustang GT Hood heat extractors setting in the car and looking at the best spots and methods to install them.