Avanti83
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Posts posted by Avanti83
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Don't forget Ebay. Search under Recaro Seats and you may find some choices. I doubt you will find a set from an Avanti but mounting hardware isn't difficult to fab for one. They are not cheap however.
Bob
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Muck around in here and see if it helps. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?74295-74-Avanti-SBC-T-56-2-1-2-quot-Exhaust-System-and-Undercarriage
I just work with the local guys. They said they would have preferred the car on their hoist but I can MIG so it was easier for me this way. I also posted the pipe prices.
If you still want a 2" "Y" pipe, I would guess Nostalgic Motors. Any exhaust shop can make a 2" - 2 1/2" adapter but I'll bet the "Y" pipe costs more than the 2 1/2" pipes I put on mine. If not Nostalgic, most any exhaust shop can make "Y" pipe but it will not be inexpensive.
Bob
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Bruce is correct about the hoist making the job less difficult but the best way is still through the inner fender.
My 74.
The hole only needs to be large enough to get a plug socket through it. Be sure to use one with the rubber insert to hold the plug. Removing the wheel is ok but just putting the wheels to far right turn gives sufficient room. It's still not easy to get the plug wire off but the plug is the real pain.
Personally, I'd go to the FLAPS or big box and find a rubber grommet that is large enough and drill the hole that size. It all depends on "Can you live with the extra hole in the body".
Bob
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I have repaired my broken steering wheel, but I am wondering how long it will last. I was looking at some Raptor wheels and wonder if anyone has used them or has any information about the adapter needed for installation.
I repaired the Banjo Wheel in my 39 Ford with POR 15 two part epoxy and painted it with catalyzed DuPont enamel. It lasted over 20 years until I sold it. If you repaired the wheel by undercutting the breaks and missing parts, it should last a long time.
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The scraping method is essentially cheap as long as you don't pay for labor. I'm not sure what you mean by "DEEP" gouges but a razor blade won't dig very deep into fiber glass if you pay attention.
Be careful about what stripper you use. Avanti's don't have a gel coat and anything that sinks into the class resin matrix could haunt you in future. IIWY, I'd contact Brad Bez "Bezhawk" on the SDC and ask for his recommendations. I think he's on here but don't recall his forum name. He is a quality restorer that has done some beautiful Avanti's and best of all, he's always willing to give advice based on his experience.
I'd also email S&W and ask for their recommendations on the sender. I know that 240 ohm is still available but don't know if it's compatible.
Good luck
Bob
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Wayne
I used a Titan razor blade scraper
And a cheap plastic one for tight spaces
Bob
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A suggestion for headers. Many will run the factory corvette "rams horn" style exhaust manifolds. They have been shown time and time again to have performance equal to headers on street applications, can be had in 2-2.5in diameters, and will fit in tight spaces.
Here are some cheap replica ones a lot of people run (note these have brackets in the casting for alternator that may need to be cut off and also make them left/right specific). http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-674-503/overview/
These are a slightly modified version. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tru-Ram-Small-Block-Chevy-Exhaust-Manifolds-Cast-Iron,3823.html
I'll be using a set of the cheapos on my new custom vortec 350 once it's done.
I've used a set of those "Cheapy" 2.5 inch Ram manifolds on both my 355 SBC 83 Avanti and 383 SBC 74 Avanti. I just cut the brackets off and ground them smooth. $50/ea is about the going price at both Summit and Rock Auto. An original 2.5" set from 63-65 Vettes price will scare you. They were designed by GM to flow well on the HP engines of the time. If they only supply one side, don't worry when you cut off the bracket, they will fit either side. Just order two and get on with it.
Bob
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I looked at the link on removal with a razor blade and about fell off my chair. I don't know how bad his paint job was but my 74 had paint popping off in some areas but the majority was well enough adhered that by my calculations, I have over 150 razor blades and possibly as high as 80 hours in scraping my paint off.
I'd do it again because I have more time than money but don't go into the process thinking that the vette is the norm. You'll leave nicks but a good high build filler will take care of that.
I'll post a shot of the scraper that worked best for me if anyone wants to start this process.
Bob
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Could you post a picture or two. The reason I ask is 1989 models sat on a GM frame and I don't believe they had hog troughs, although I'm an 83 and older guy.
A few pictures of the car and damage might add light to the discussion and change some of the input.
If it's earlier than the preceding discussion applies. This can give you some background. http://www.classic-car-history.com/avanti-car-history.htm
Bob
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One last thought. If the Holley EFI is one of the newer self programming Avenger series with distributor it might be worth $1000 give or take. The older 950's, not so much.
Bob
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If you are looking to buy as a driver and can do the hog troughs, probably $4 maybe 5K. The conundrum with valuing it is the Hog troughs are a $4-5K hit at a body shop whereas you can do them for under $2K. The bumpers will add another $2K or so. I'll assume the frame is good for the purpose of discussion.
My guess is the car is $10-12K without the foibles so I'd offer $4K for starters and fix it.
I think he would have problem getting $4K in parts. Nothing special about the drive train, engine $300 if lucky, tranny $75, rearend $150. Interior, if you could get $1K you'd be lucky. Exterior panels only sell if someone needs them, then there is some money but you need to store them and someone that needs them has to find him. There is also some money in the small stuff but again a tough sell.
The siliconed sun roof is also an issue as if it was seriously leaking it can rust out the A-pillars. Not cheap or easy to find.
As one can see, Just to many unknowns to go much over $4K or so. If I needed one, I'd be all over it at that price. I paid $7500 for my 83 in 2009 and it had good hog troughs. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?26174-The-search-is-over
JMHO, Bob
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I installed a Lunati hydraulic lifter cam in my SBC 383 last fall and the instructions were very specific about using the Lunati breakin additive in the oil for break in. In fact, I can't remember the last cam I put in that didn't have instructions to use break in additive.
Bob
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I used the OEM shroud on the 83 with a flex fan. The 74 has a serpentine setup, which I like but adds length that makes the OEM setup unusable.
The 83 has an aluminum headed 355 SBC with a lot of internal mods that it cools in 90 deg Michigan weather.
Bob
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Bob, do you have a transmission cooler set up for this?
James
James
The 74 has a T56 6-speed in it but my 83 has a 200R4 with essentially the same radiator. I used an aftermarket cooler on it. It cools just fine in the summer.
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Bob, do you have a transmission cooler set up for this?
James
James
The 74 has a T56 6-speed in it but my 83 has a 200R4 with essentially the same radiator. I used an aftermarket cooler on it. It cools just fine in the summer.
Bob
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I own #4245 - also an '85 -
1- you should be able to get a clip locally if you haven't already - did you need a pic of one? I have my passenger door apart now so it's be easy for me to get a pic for you.
2 - I created a PDF version of the one that came with my car - you can find it at http://www.Avanti4245.com
3 - like one of these? http://aerobolt.com.au/media/Image/cache/R800600-RUB_NUT.jpg
4 - I've had the computer controlled Quadrajets rebuilt by SMC in SoCal. Only problem is they are so good, they are always busy and a 3month lead time is not unusual. Save it for the winter.
James
James
That PDF is a lot of good info. Thanks for posting. Bob
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From the Studebaker Intl 2012
Bob
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Yes, you will need both the flex plate and the balancer from the 400 as they are the only externally balanced SBC's. I would use the existing converter as you are and go from there. Be sure you have a trans cooler either in the radiator or aftermarket.
I have a 383 stroker going into my 74 and the limited driving during construction really indicates the pull of that SBC.
Should make a nice upgrade. Bob
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$350 to me sounds about par for the course. If you get a chance to try to bench the tranny when they have it out, you'll think that money is well spent.
Take a look at the rear seal where the drive shaft yoke is inserted, It's probably a good time to replace it also if it has never been done. Seal should be under $20. Also look at the speedo adapter, if you see any signs of leakage, there are two O-rings that can be replaced. The O-rings can be done anytime so unless they look like they are leaking, I'd leave them alone.
Glad it was straight forward and not the tranny. Bob
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The 700R4 IIRC will handle 400-425 ft-lbs of torque. They were built to handle truck installations so unless you plan to get seriously jiggy with it, I wouldn't be too concerned.
If your emissions 400 has over 300 or so ft-lbs I be surprised. Now if want to tear out the emissions cam and intake system then you would be getting closer.
IAC, I think you should be fine. Even if it were to break it costs the same to rebuild it to a higher torque spec then as now.
JMHO
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This should get you started http://www.aoai.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=293&hl=%2Bavanti+%2Bwheels
For more info follow Tom's sbca96's posts on here and the SDC forum.
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Bad/corroded grounds force current to go where it isn't supposed to go, as a thought.
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As an addendum, when I re-did the rear wheel bearings, seals, collar et. al. on my 83, An early 70's IH Scout II kit had all the correct parts.
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Remember that if you have twin-traction or another form of positraction, to size the spare to the same circumference as your rear tires or damage can result.
Bob
Exhaust options w/ 305 to 350 swap
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted · Edited by Avanti83
If you want to use the local shop, I bet they could give you a ballpark price for the 2 1/2" based on the 2" OEM pipes. If the cost is in the ball park then you could price the cost of a tow/rollback to the shop or maybe your insurance would cover it.
I have Don's 2 1/4" on my 83 and I am impressed but just didn't want the cost on the 74.
BTW, my shop hit the 2 1/2" passenger side dead on from the 2" OEM pipes and all I had to do on the drivers side was cut off the flange end of the pipe and add the manifold adapter.
Good luck, Bob