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Avanti83

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Posts posted by Avanti83

  1. There is nothing in my 83 manual or literature that mentions towing capacity. One could suggest that checking the towing capacity of an 83 Monte Carlo 305 could be one data point but I would be careful as the Monte Carlo has a much more substantial frame than the Avanti.

    If you do chose to tow with it, I have an Avanti specific hitch and helper springs that could be available, It's off my 74 that the PO used to tow his boat. The chrome is pitted but it's solid. Pictures if you want.

    Bob

  2. Jim

    I really appreciate the kind words and I'm glad it all worked for you. I've been lucky in my life to have folks help me when I needed the assistance, so I try to pay forward whenever I can.

    A lot of folks on the AOAI and the SDC forums do this and it makes for a great community.

    Thanks again, Bob

  3. Correct!...if 'Rally 500' means 'Magnum 500'...and 'Snow Flake' means Epsilon cast wheels. Well done!

    Brain fart on the Magnum 500's but that's what I meant. Never knew the name of the Anniversary wheels but they vaguely remind me of the Pontiac mags.

  4. Cowboy

    To save typing, this is my setup. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?73694-Avanti-Aluminum-Radiator-W-elec-Fan-and-Shroud

    The brackets come up regularly on Ebay although they will become more rare as time goes on. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-Camaro-1988-350-AC-Compressor-Bracket-10055800-/131316340223?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e931055ff&vxp=mtr

    I believe there was a post on this forum that discussed controllers but I used the one listed. It's not on the road yet but I did wire it so I have a switch that will turn the fan on if necessary,

    I checked my belt to steering clearance today and I can get my little finger between the crank pulley and the steering arm connection.

    Lastly, the Aluminum radiator I installed is described in the post. It hasn't been on the road but an equivalent radiator has been in my 83 Avanti for two years and has been keeping the 355 SBC cool in weather as high as 90 degrees using a mechanical flex fan in the OEM shroud.

    The OEM Camaro A/C compressor R4 style should fit as the bracket was designed for it. . I purchased an after market A/C setup with an adapter for the smaller Sanden compressor. It's still in the box so we'll see how it fits next spring.

    Good luck, Bob

  5. Thanks to all for your input. My vote goes along with Gunslinger. The motor mounts are new, but they seem slim. Going to check it out. I do have a long pump. Frankly I didn't think of this aspect. I visited with my local Chevy nuts this morning. For a six pack he gave me a complete serpentine unit he pulled out of a 99 truck but never used. Everything including a reverse flow WP but a belt. I'll dry fit it this coming week. The crank pully looks to large but it might clear since it deeper in depth. If not I did note that Summit as small dia ones so this is a fall back. If nothing else works, I'll vist my buddies in the machine shop and have them make one for me. Sweep meets are good they they are generally over in this area until next spring. I did pick up an air cleaner assembly two months ago. Will keep you all posted. Might be a couple of weeks, it is fall fishing time.

    PS. The guy that worked on this car prior to me should be band from any auto stuff.

    The truck serpentine setups are generally to tall on the A/C side. Your's may be different but if you find that problem look for an early 90's Camaro bracket. That's what I used on my 74 and with new urethane mounts there is enough clearance for a belt change. You could cut the bracket down but there needs to be a pulley in that position to allow the tensioner to contact the belt.

    Another issue is the OEM serpentine setup puts the fan closer to the radiator than I thought was safe so I converted to an electric fan setup.

    As another says your results may vary, but those are the issues to look out for.

    Bob

  6. dapy,

    Thanks for the info, don't know Turning Wheels magazine but will check it out.

    Just for the record, Turning Wheels is the magazine from the Studebaker Drivers Club.

    Nostalgic Motors in Wixom Michigan is a go to for unique Avanti Parts. The owner Don is very knowledgeable and will usually discuss issues on the phone.

  7. Warren

    I replaced the underdrive 3 grove pulley on the crank with a smaller diameter 3 grove pulley. The original one had a larger 7.8 dia grove on the front that drives the alternator and fan. The new pulley had all three groves of same diameter <7 inch so it gives about 5/8 clearance between pulley and power cylinder arm.

    I have adequate clearance to remove the belts. Just changes alternator speed a little. I have long water pump. I ordered from JEGS or SUMMIT, is aluminum, can not find part number

    Joe

    Agree with Joe.

    Same problem with my 83. I just picked up a set of smaller steel pulleys at a swap meet. Generally $5-10/ea. Nothing wrong with using the ones from Summit et.al. It will change you fan RPM also but probably not enough to matter.

  8. My guess is yours is electric and in the glovebox on the drivers side. The manual release is below the drivers side rear seat near the floor if you have one.

    You can open the trunk by opening the access in the rear shelf and with a flashlight you will see a slot in the trunk release mechanism. Put a long screwdriver (flat blade) in the slot and turn. It will release the trunk lid. Bob

  9. I use a 12 ton press but you can do the same thing with a vise. I put the rubber in first and then press in the tube. A proper sized socket works well to push with.

    The soap recommendation works well and if you need clearance on the backside to let the bushing/insert clear just use a socket of the appropriate size.

  10. There was an 89 Avanti convertible at Dover that had a crate tunnel port(I think 350) supercharged with a Paxton unit. It also had a Gear Venders overdrive unit as well. There is a ton of room under the 89 hood due to the Caprice frame. It would not be as easy to do on an older II.

    Sounds like the one that Jeff Rice bought/sold in early 2011 if it was red. It was a really nice car. Probably a youtube video or two around also.

  11. Doug

    Not my intent to sell the Holley unit but to use my experience to point out that computer control of timing is an important part of the engine control parameters. It's impossible to find a new vehicle that does not have control of all parameters in the engine with the ECM so my conclusion is the best way to control engine parameters is with the best electronics available.

    I won't contest the advantages vs disadvantages of the available systems but to note that if I were to spend a ton of cash on a blower eguipt system I'd research the heck out of the available systems and pick the one that was best for my application. I will guarantee it would control timing.

    JMHO, :D Bob

  12. We'll agree to disagree. My 355 SBC in my 83 has a Holley Avenger EFI setup. With the carb/ vac. dissy setup it just wouldn't perform as well as it should throughout the RPM range even after numerous carb and timing changes. I bit the bullet and put on the Holley Avenger. It will use the small SBC HEI distributor (less than $75).

    Right out of the box, it was much improved over the old system and still runs great.

    I downloaded the timing and a/f curves and there is no way any standard (carb-Dissy) setup would control like the EFI does.

    If I were to add a blower, the $500 (less on an SBC) would be cheap insurance on a $3000 blower system and unknown cost of the engine.

    I guess I could spend $500+ on a dyno session but that would only let me know I was optimum at that time.

    In my garage is a 2013 Impala that get 303 HP from 3.5 liter V6. It doesn't get there without timing control so it must be an improvement over previous technology. I understand that timing is only one factor in the engines performance but optimum performance depends on accurate timing control.

    Not to be argumentative as I'm just an old guy that believes in the newer technology for maximum performance.

    Bob

  13. It looks like you are on top of the install. It just didn't look that tall.

    Keep posting about the EFI setup, I would be interested in what it looks like and how it works.

    The reason I mentioned the pressure for the TBI's is about 15 PSI. The early TPI's 40 PSI and later like you have run about 55 or so. It could be just a pump change however or a regulator. The folks that supply the systems will know.

    Good luck, Bob

  14. I like the included baffle setup. I think it's going to be to short as there is only 1" of adjustability and the pump pressure may be to high for the std Hamilton EFI TBI setup. It might also be lower in volume than is required for supercharging.

    I don't know for sure but just thinking out loud. Bob

  15. If this one represents the actual setup. You should be able to make it work by adjusting the length.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HERKO-FUEL-PUMP-E3621S-FOR-VEHICLES-CHEVROLET-AND-GMC-1988-1991-/171329845067?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27e40df74b&vxp=mtr

    My one concern is the need to put a baffle in the bottom of the tank to make sure the pump doesn't run dry. A quick death for an in-tank pump.

    When I put the in-tank setup from a 91 Caprice in my 54 Studebaker, I made a sump lower than the tank as the pump setup was to long for the OEM tank.

    In the Avanti, you would probably just need to place a circular panel with holes where the pump pickup is as a baffle. Don't just buy the pump setup from your FLAPS, go to a wrecking yard and buy the entire tank assembly as the pump mounting flange is commonly specific to the pump. Most are an o-ring sealed twist setup. You can weld the flange to the top of your tank. Even if the tank is plastic, the mounting flange is metal. My tank was plastic but I removed the flange and welded it on my tank on the 54. That will give you everything you need and just replace the pump, which is not expensive.

    The hose fittings on the pump are a GM setup. I just replaced them with a compression fitting that converted to NPT thread and installed hard lines all the way. Now days the EFI hose available will probably let you just slide it on and clamp it but you will see what's needed when you get the setup.

    The Chevy setup is nice as it includes the gas float but I'm not sure the resistance is correct. It isn't hard to find an SW gauge that will work and match your gauges OK.

    That's the route, but if I were to do it again I'd just install the external pump. My 83 has a Holley EFI and I just used the external pump and the in-tank sender that was there.

    Your choice however, Bob

  16. I always use Photobucket to post here. If you click on the "post Image" icon, it wants a web address (URL). So, to me, that says without a web address you can't add photos. If someone knows how to do it off their computer, I'd love to see it.

    So I would think you need to set up a account on a free site and go from there. That lets this site use a lot less storage and keeps the costs down, If I were to guess why it's that way.

  17. Actually, the answer here is TRUE!...And I'm going to 'stick my neck out' here and say that the 327 CI Chevys of the '65-'67 era did not have the factory lift rings you refer to. (As the later Chevys definitely did)

    They did have lift brackets http://www.lategreatchevy.com/full-size-chevy-engine-lift-brackets-small-block-1965-1970.html but that's not my question. Not to argue but just curious how/why Avanti Motors installed the SBC's using a three point setup? Chevrolet installed millions of engines a year with them but Nate chose to go a different route. Again not to argue just curious about how/why and particularily where they hooked up.

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