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Everything posted by Avanti83

  1. That's currently a touch over $1600 US and if he has the correct front valance the entire structure across the front of the car will need to be replaced. Difficulty is the entire front needs to be removed properly, joint strips fabricated to join the new and old panels and the entire valence assembly aligned and re-adhered into position. There's a lot of fiddly involved to get it right but far from impossible. Not cheap to farm out either. Parts prices are in-line if they are new or in excellent condition. Some of those parts are also not so easy to find and having everything could save a lot of time and hunting. Get the parts manual if you decide to go for it and be sure everything is really there. IMO the round eyed ones are the best looking and I considered doing the same thing to my 74 but it needed so much other work that I never got around to it. If it's your dream, go for it.
  2. Studebaker International. Looks like you need a list of Stude Vendors. https://www.studebakervendors.com/ The go-to vendors for Avanti's are Dan Booth @ Nostalgic Motors and Myers Studebaker but SI among many that handle a wide variety of Avanti parts.
  3. The hog troughs hold several of the body mounts. Studebaker engineers seemed to think they are important enough to spend a fair bit of money designing and installing them. There are alternate ways to support the body but personally I'll stick with the original method. Rule of thumb on HT replacement is $4-5K. Frame rust can be repaired if it's isolated to small vertical sections of the frame and/or the bottom plate. But unless you own this one, repair is not for the faint of heart, so as suggested above, Run.
  4. If you want a spoiler that works - https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Cooling/SOBradiator/sdc42115sobrad.html A fair number have done this mod.
  5. Here's a list of vendors for Studebaker parts and services. I don't know how much it will help but check with Myers and Fairborn. If they don't have the parts, they will know where to get them. https://www.studebakervendors.com/
  6. I haven't seen it mentioned above but DO NOT lube the tapered section. It's meant to be reassembled dry.
  7. Well done, whatever works is a great way to do it.
  8. Personally, I'd pull the engine and put it on a stand to replace those plugs. You can then clean it if you want and/or examine the insides if you chose to do so depending on your knowledge of the engine. It should stay dialed in as long as you just put it back together with the same bellhousing. An excellent chance to clean and detail the engine compartment as an added bonus. There will be close to 900# or more hanging there if you just raise the engine.
  9. As said above, the casting number is 80-84 origin. The stamping shows V-flint, mi assembly in month- 05 on day- 18. The 3MT is tough to find. For comparison my 83 is V10293MC. again Flint assembled on 10/29. Not sure of year. 3MC again unknown but would generally pertain to what it was destined for when installed in a vehicle. Generally a decent engine to drive around with or providing boat anchorage. These 305's were never known as performance engines as it costs the same to rebuild a 350 as a 305 so most just met the demise when they needed rebuilding.
  10. As I've said previously, The hinges can be removed after removing the door by unbolting them from the body. Four bolts IIRC. Secondly, there is publication called the Avant Workshop Manual available at our vendors for a modest cost. The first two items under door alignment are -remove door panel -remover striker. They may know something about their cars and are a wealth of info on the in's and out's them.
  11. I've never seen an SBC that didn't use an exhaust gasket. Ford tried that on some sixes in the 80's IIRC with not good results. Use a head gasket. You should find a boss on the passengers side close to the front of the engine with numbers stamped into it. Those are much more important to determining engine ID. Nasty Z28 has a great site for decoding SBC numbers. https://nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.html The 83 305 is a pretty generic engine used it most Chevy models in those years. Low HP but reasonably dependable. GM needed another decade to get the pollution controls in good nick.
  12. That's why you see so many beat up non-functioning strikers on old cars.
  13. By shimming the door, I mean use any combination of wood and cardboard between the door edge and the door opening. Easier to do with the seat out. Just keep adding shim material along the bottom and both sides until the door is positioned centered in the door opening. Then tape it in place to hold it both centered in the opening and aligned with the outside of the car. Then shim and tighten the door hinges. The hinges can be removed with the door off then take out the bolts holding them to the body.
  14. If the door drops 1/4" when opened then there's probably some wear or movement in the hinges. Remember these are long doors and to get 1/4" drop on the striker end only requires a small movement on the hinge end. I'd be sure the bolts mounting the hinge to the body are tight and there is no wear in the hinge pins before I'd readjust the door again. I like to shim the door into alignment with the door hinge bolts out and the door taped into the position I want. I then add the spacer shims between the hinge and door and then bolt the door hinges into position. Using the striker assembly for alignment will only cause excessive wear and early replacement.
  15. Those are nice wheels. Good luck on the rebuild.
  16. IIRC there are threaded studs on the bottom of the reservoir that are accessed from under the dash.
  17. Go to youtube, you are looking at cutting and buffing more than wet sanding. 1inxs is correct in you will need to be comfortable with the process, otherwise the cost of the equipment, polishing compounds and supplies will go a long way toward paying to have it done professionally. It's pretty easy to buff through the paint if you hit an edge or sharp contour line.
  18. Looks a lot like my hi-tech spray booth. Your plan to go forward is solid but when you get the car in the air to replace the bottom plate (basically 4"X 1/8" plate steel) give the hog troughs a very close look. If they need some metal but are good nick generally, it's basically just sheet metal work.
  19. Let me also suggest that you inspect the "hog troughs" and frame for rust. As you probably know these are the areas of the Avanti that are prone to deteriation and it's better to evaluate and repair before others fixes on the list as a complete repair could entail removing the body from the frame or cutting the rocker panels lose and then glassing them back in if the hog troughs need replacing.
  20. The best way I've found is to use Google search. Just type in "Avanti R12 how much" and it will come up high on the list.
  21. By the same logic, if the top of the loop in the vent line is well above the tank top, why would the fumes go up and out the vent line?
  22. AMC column if it's like mine. I don't recall my exact procedure but here's an AMC post. https://theamcforum.com/forum/how-to-remove-ignition-switch-1974-matador_topic49318.html
  23. Yes, use a decent size flatblade screwdriver.
  24. Looks right. Both nuts should be tight to the yoke and in the correct position when you can set the emergency brake before it reaches the limit of it's pull.
  25. That's a good deal considering all the included parts. Can you use a standard fan with that setup. If so, it's better than my setup that required an electric fan due to the distance between the drive and the radiator. I have a ton of Chevy parts from the early 90's and found that the setup from most early 90's serpentine systems will work if you use the Camaro passengers side mounting bracket to keep the a/c unit low. You may also need to drill and tap one hole in the passenger side cylinder head depending on the year the head came from. This is mine although the idler on the passengers side now has a Sanden Compressor replacing the idler pulley.
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