Avanti83
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Posts posted by Avanti83
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On both of mine, the vent hole was under the clamp that held the brake line to the axle. Possibly they did that on most of them.
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South Bend 2012
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Back to the topic at hand, I'll take a wild stab and say true because if they didn't try a set it would be the only modification they didn't do to an Avanti in the 66-83 era.
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As much as misinformation abounds when it comes to Avantis, it has surprised me how many do have reasonably accurate knowledge of the car and its history and can hold a good conversation and are open to learning more. Some people though, simply do not want to learn accurate information as they don't want to be seen as wrong.
I agree with this assessment. 95+% of the show going folks don't care much about correctness on our beloved model. The ones that care or are curious will ask the rest just don't care and tend to infuriate some owners well beyond reason.
I post this as a conversation starter about my 83 and go from there. With the curious ones I hold a friendly discussion, the other just aren't worth the time nor frustration for me or them. I have a much better time at shows with this philosophy and have made a few friends along the way.
It also helps to fire it up for interested parties or suggest they spend some time sitting in it.
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RQB-2123. was there more I hadn't noted between mine and the last? My data said 2127 was the last.
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1974, mine was next to last.
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They are not, so true
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I used a Speedway harness to wire my 74 with a GM column. The wire colors generally correlate with the GM wiring. This diagram should help define the wires you are looking for.
http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/Universal20Circuit.pdfIt notes a difference from 74 to 75 but the connectors should still be close.
Bob
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It's rounded out from any direction viewed from the outside so it's convex by definition unless I don't understand the question. So true it's not concave
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IIRC on my 83, the pump was located on the firewall near the wiper motor. Follow the hose that comes out the of the cover on the tank. The tank is held in place by two studs on the bottom of the tank. Remove the nuts from under the dash. You can never tell what is OEM on them but that's how mine is setup.
Bob
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If one doesn't like it don't read it, I'm in favor of it. I also learn from the posts and it gets me thinking about the Avantis and trying to answer the questions.
I come back more often because without those posts it can be days before something else will show up. I appreciate Ed for taking the time and effort to come up with the questions and posting same.
Bob
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Hardest brake lines to flare successfully are SS. Take the leaking line out, if it is a line, and look for a crack in the flare. It's possible if there are none that it just worked itself loose but this is the downside of SS in brake lines. They also have a large upside so don't get me wrong, I like them
As for the fluid differences, silicon vs ester, I don't think it would have made a difference. I believe silicon fluids are lower in viscosity but probably not a factor here.
Secondly, check the switch, your's wouldn't be the first one to leak.
Bob
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Possibly but I used more than 10' of 4" wide plate to repair my 74 frame. So false from my standpoint.
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Not written in stone, but I've always thought that all 1983 Avantis came with the conventional engine driven clutch fan and factory fan shroud....Was your Avanti converted to electric fans?
Mine is mechanical on the 83 also. Whether yours are OEM or aftermarket just go to Summit Racing and you'll find a selection of fan controllers. Just pick what looks good and install it to control the way you want. I used this one on my 74 Avanti converted to electric fan. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16749There has been previous discussion on the forum about these and there was some discussion on the reviews. A search of the forum should turn up discussions on this topic.
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In the latest AVANTI magazine Dale Sexton president has a display ad for his modified 1988. Price is $45,000. He just bought an AVX.
The most expensive Studebaker Avanti that I know about sold in the mid $30's, an award winning concours car. I believe it belonged to former president Bill Amantia...a black R1.
I agree with everything dapy said in his last two posts, good points.
The most expensive Avanti I recall was Jim McCuan's low mileage 12K original R2 that sold on Ebay a couple of years ago. It was as nice an original as one could find and IIRC it went in the low/mid 40"s.
With cars like these you are as likely it goes to someone that values it on Ebay as any other site.
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HD
There are certainly some knowledgeable folks on the forum, a couple have posted already, but one of the best ways to go is Ebay. Once you have a figure in mind that you can be happy with, posting it on Ebay with that price as a reserve and a good description with mucho pictures will give it about as wide a coverage as you can get. I'm not a real fan of Craigslist and other free sites as you will get a lot of tire kickers and bargain hunters. Not that it won't sell but it can be a hassle. I've sold a lot of items on Craigslist locally and it's great in the right circumstances but not for this.
Ebay has it's own downside but there's a lot more protection with them. One issue is bidding with no intent of buying, it happens but you can cancel bids if you want. The cost is pretty minimal considering what the car could be worth.
If it doesn't meet reserve you are under no obligation to sell and if someone bids and doesn't show there is some recourse but not enough. But in the world of selling classic cars in the $5 - 50K range is probably as good as one can find.
I've sold/bought cars on Ebay and Craigslist but I will usually sell on Ebay and try to buy on Craigslist for the best deals.
JMHO, Bob
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RQA-0161 was the 1967 supercharged SBC powered Avanti with the goofy scoop and mucho discussion on that other forum.
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I'm sensing a trick question again. IIRC the O2 sensor was located after the Y where the pipes come together so in effect it's not technically in the right pipe but the collector is connected to the right pipe.
I'm just to lazy today to go pull the old head pipe out of the pile, so it's from memory.
So false based on the above.
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I'm bringing this topic back because I was just reading Hot Rod mag (01/15) issue pg 122 and this exact question was addressed. That should be the current issue on the news stands.
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How much of the DEI wrap did you have to use to do all that?
Warren
IIRC, I used two 25 ft rolls, one per side. 2" wide
Bob
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Agree with drat. In my shot above you can see my battery cables that run from the trunk. I believe they are 0 gauge also. The hot cable runs directly to the starter and the ground cable is connected to the body mount bolt in the trunk (pass side) the frame near the starter (you can see where I removed the insulation at the clamp on the frame) and a tranny to engine mounting bolt. The ground wire is one piece with not joints to corrode from the battery to the engine bolt.
Bob
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Wrap the exhaust pipe with DEI thermal wrap.
It will make a large difference. Use two layers by the starter if it still feels hot.
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Simply put - Yes!
Mine is done with Fat Mat but it really helps. It doesn't help much with exhaust noise as that's by design.
Works well with heat also.
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The 195 degree thermostat made no difference except that it runs at higher temperature now. The same rich condition, black smoke and loading up at idle and no TCC lockup. No trouble codes are being set in the ECM. I found that the O2 sensor is indeed in place back in the spring of the year and replaced it with a new one just for good measure. Also back in the spring, I switched the carburetor for another (the original stock one from my 1987 El Camino LG4 305) and the car ran exactly the same, so I switched it back. This is getting old.
On a different note, after changing out the rear end from a 2.87:1 to a 3.54:1 the speedometer is now 10% fast instead of 12% slow, according to my GPS.
Steve
If you are running that rich and not setting a trouble code, what happens if you disconnect the ECM. Will it start and if so, does it run any different. The ECM may be faulty and you are stuck in Limp Home mode and no codes. IIRC, the computer is a complete add-on and essentially separate system from the rest of the car electronics.
I don't know the answer about the ECM but you have exhausted a lot of other causes.
I've had this type of problem with these era systems from a bad sensor to broken wires in the harness but there was always a trouble code set. It didn't provide a great deal of info but it got me started in the right direction.
Build Sheet?
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted · Edited by Avanti83
Add me to this list. I've talked to Dan several times on the phone about Avanti problems and he has taken the time to provide answers. I try to buy from him for the same reasons.