Avanti83
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Posts posted by Avanti83
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A lot of $%^$#@ fiddly work is what I call it but I'm unsure of any technical term for same.
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How about curved not straight side window glass?
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Dave
The later II's had rear belts and they are mounted through the rear fiberglass with a large washer IIRC. If I were to do it, I'd install a large round plate behind the bolting area to hold the belts. Three points would be more difficult as the upper mount could be iffy, but not impossible.
The 74 is setting stripped on my hoist, I'm commenting from memory but I can get some pictures of how Avanti Motors did it if you need them.
BTW congrats on wanting this improvement.
Bob
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I believe I used 6000 bulbs
, as they are not blue, but that could be because of no relays and they are not using enough juice?
5000-6000K is the recommended temperature for brightest (daylight) light. It is white light, The blue comes from higher temperature and yellow lower IIRC.
Most sights I've looked at suggest using the 5000-6000K. Probably something like this is what I'll use. http://www.amazon.com/H6024-PROJECTOR-HEADLIGHT-6000K-BALLAST/dp/B00CO774II#productDetails
Some thoughts on temperature vs light output http://knowledge.sonicelectronix.com/car-audio-and-video/accessories-and-installation/hid-color-temperature.html
Thanks for the input and post a few pics when done, you will have a nice ride that will get attention.
Bob
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A nice set of modifications. Can you elaborate on the HID conversion and the unit you used. I have a couple in mind for the 74 but would like to know what others are using. I plan to use 6000K bulbs, what did you use? Thx, Bob
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drat
Would you consider posting the spring specs, order info and price range as I'm sure it will be of interest to many of us. Well! at least me.
Bob
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Mine doesn't have one so false.
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AND THE MYSTERY PART IS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!................A road draft tube!
I think we are going to differ on what is "dead obvious at a quick glance" on this one on an installed engine.
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Definite maybe.
If true why didn't partners Newman and Altman put that engine in the II's.
Possibly due to the lack of block and head castings and I'll bet the complete SBC went for much less than that in the mid-60's
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Staggered valve cover bolts on the 327
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oil pump?
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I had the same problem last year and figured it was a heat soak problem. I bought a newer, smaller, permanent magnet starter here and haven't had a single problem since.
I use the same starter on all my SBC's with excellent results but I also wrap my exhaust pipes with DEI wrap. It protects the starter as well as keeps the pipes from burning you if you get up close and personal. It also lessens the radiated heat in that area.
If money is an issue replace the starter/solenoid with an OEM rebuilt from an Auto Zone type store with a lifetime warranty for under $50 and be sure your connections are tight and corrosion free.
Bob
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I hadn't heard that one. I guess I better check my crossmember for cracks!
Warren
It's not easy to tell if the mounts are in place. It will look like this under the mounts.
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You 'nailed' it!.....The extra torque of the 400 engine seemed to be too much for that front crossmember.
Now for the rest of the story. My 74 came with a 400 and OP told Nate that he didn't want a truck engine. Altman replaced it with a 350 shortly after the OP bought the car. When I removed the 350 to install the 383 last year I removed the mounts and the frame was cracked around the mounts.
I don't know if it was the 400 after only a couple of months but I think it was more the fact that the engine mount bolts were installed without washers. The crack in my cross member radiated out from the edges of the bolts which initiated the stress fractures. The difference in assembly quality between my 83 and 74 is enormous. The 74 reminds me of a kit car built by teenagers. So I'm not sure if it's the 400 or partially build quality.
I know the story is true about the 350 because I purchased the 74 from the son of the OP and talk to both of them on a regular basis.
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cracked front cross members at engine mounts?
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Well, it's not as important but I think Bruce is close, it's the prototype 20th anniversary model.
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Easy, it was produced just before mine, RQB-3651
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False is correct....but are you sure the engine's serial # is on the front of the passenger side cylinder head?
I can't speak to the 78 but my 83 has a number stamped on the pad and I used the one on the 74 to determine what the engine was.
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False, Numbers on my 74 and 83 were where Chevrolet put them on the front of the passenger side head. Not sure which left you are describing but that would put it on the intake manifold in either case.
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Initially, you need to be sure it is going all the way into second. Best to check by pulling the rods off the transmission arms and seeing if the arm will go farther.
If that's ok then the news is not good, time for some internal work - rebuild. Bob
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Got the door open thanks to your help. Now it is time to start working on the power windows. I also have the seats out as the sliders were rusted I will never get done with this car. Move on to the rugs after the windows. .
Bill
What was the issue in case someone has a similar problem in the future?
Bob
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Unless it was removed from my 83 the only noise suppression is the plug wires. In my car, there is no noise in the radio that I can detect.
So I'll say false and learn something new about mine if I'm incorrect. Bob
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Although solids may have been installed 'after the fact' in your friend's Camaro engine, The 300 horsepower 327 was the 'gentlemans' 327,...and it definitely left the factory with hydraulic valve lifters.
Agree, Chevrolet literature says only the two top HP versions had solid lifters.That makes sense as those that purchased the lower HP versions were not in the noise/adjustment/all out racing mode. Bob
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False, The tire tools don't count I'll bet.
Seat Belts.
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted
Dave
I know on my newer cars there is a separate hook that holds the childs seat on the rear package tray as well as the three point harness. Upon further review, if you pull the back seat out, I think you can find enough solid fiberglass that with some reinforcement will allow a three point install.
The issue to me is what do the baby seats need to have to be installed in your neck of the woods. Here the requirements have been upgraded in the last few years so our seat requirements may differ. In any case, there enough "meat" back there to put in what you need but some creativity may be involved. The offer of pictures of that area is still open.
Nothing more important than keeping the little ones safe. Well!!! The grands kids are more important now. That's why all my "classic" cars have three point belts, our kids wouldn't let their kids ride without them. I totally agree.
Bob