ronmanfredi

They do, I bought a kit off Amazon that includes multiple sizes and the tool in a nice case. Since then, I've been using it A Lot !

If it has already been re-bonded, then either the work wasn't done right or the fiberglass is actually coming apart. Do you know how they re-bonded it?

Can you use a nutsert?

One upgrade that can’t be beat is to change out the run/turn/brake light exterior bulbs to LEDs. (I don't do the headlights since most don't provide the beams the way that I want them). I’ve done this more than once on other vehicles and the result is always excellent. When it comes to the turn signals though, there is always a flashing problem created since the LED bulbs don’t have enough electrical load on them to make the flasher work properly. If you have a 2005 or older Avanti, then you can solve the problem by using a United Pacific 90652 LED Turn Signal Flasher but not on a 2006-2007 S197 Avanti since it does not have one. As Can Bus systems improved, manufacturers like Ford integrated the flasher within a module known as the Smart Junction Box (SJB). Other manufacturers call this a Generic Electronic Module (GEM). In the case of our Avanti’s, the SJB is mounted on the passenger’s kick panel and includes a PC board along with various Can Bus system fuses. The SJB operates other parts of the car like the convertible top, heated rear window, interior and exterior lighting, some instrument cluster components among others. Because of this, the recommended way to make the turn signal and emergency flashers work properly is to add 50-Watt, 6 Ohm resistors to each LED light bulb in the turn signal circuit. These are very common today and I purchased mine off Amazon. For our 06-07 Avanti’s, we need 6 of these since there are 6 turn signal bulbs in the car. Once you read about them or receive them, you’ll discover that they generate heat, enough so that you don’t want to zip tie or tape them to any other plastic part in the car. In my case, I decide to make simple brackets out of 1/6” x 1” aluminum flat metal. For the front, rear and front side marker lights I purchased the Auxito bulb brand off Amazon since I like the bulb design and have used them before without any problems. With the bulbs and resistors in hand, the next thing to do was to make up the brackets for the resistors. The fronts were simple since you can use one of the bumper mounting bolts the extend inside the tire wheel well and simply add a nut to hold the bracket in place. I used blue Loctite on the nuts to be sure they wouldn’t come loose. The rear lights were a little more challenging since you want to stay off of the interior trim pieces / carpet and provide room for the resistors to get some “air”. Once the bulbs and resistors were installed, the bright and crisp lights were now a welcome addition.

When I rebuilt the Dana 44 in my 82 model, I bought the ring/pinion and bearing set from Summit Racing Parts.

I found, that when anyone does any post about any supposed fact, there will ALWAYS be individuals who check their understanding of the post and compare it to what information that they have. Since you aren't willing to supply your proof as Regnalbob is requesting, then that lack of action places your responses in question. You appear to have a lot of time on your hands and spend a lot of it posting trivia stuff on this forum which is fine. But it also puts you in the face of others and since it is a public forum, then the "others" have the right to verify your claims. Once you complain about being asked by anyone to prove it and you deny that request, then you open up the door for responses like this. Wouldn't that be a more productive way of spending your spare time?

Check the firewall gromet to see if it's still there or if you have any other issues in that area.

On my 82 model, I ran American Racing Mono Cast 15 x 7 wheels with zero offset and 235/70R15 tires and didn't have any problem. zero offset on the 7" wheel is 3.5" backspace.

Sure, you can do that, but why add that to the driving task when a simple change in the valve body makes it automatic? He's already having the transmission beefed up for more power, so the valve body will already be out anyway.

The transmission lock up converter is controlled by the ECU that you are removing. The transmission shop can make a modification to the valve body to fix this while they are working on it.

It sounds to me like you bought the wrong springs. And the mechanic who installed them didn't pay attention to the fact that the base of the springs were different from what was removed. So, you need to purchase the correct springs and have them installed to solve the problem. If you still have the old ones, then you can verify spring set #2 is correct before having them installed. If not, then you need to buy them from an Avanti Parts supplier for sure.

We bought our 2006 Avanti GT Convertible in 2024 from the original owner and it is #11 of approximately 28 cars made in 2006-2007 on the S197 Mustang chassis. I immediately began updating the car to what I consider more modern standards and have posted most of the changes during this year. For our final and most intensive improvement, this post will show you what was done and at the end, I’ll highlight this car’s build. I hope you enjoy it! The modifications to the cars body started with our attending the Mustang Week event in Galveston Texas last April. With hundreds of Mustangs there, I was able to see all of the things that could be done to our car and set out to do each one of them. We got a lot of attention with our “Avanti Mustang” there and next year we are going to blow them away. OK, I’m going to highlight our first 2 body mods and then move into our last, a custom-made lower rear valance.

Some of the fuel pumps had 3 connections on them. The smaller push on fitting was for the return line back to the fuel tank. It is possible that someone installed the incorrect fuel pump that does not have the return fitting on it. If so, you will need to plug it off.

I'm pretty sure that Dan at Nostalgic Motors has it.

That's strange since when I click on mine, I see messages both ways.

It is a low compression 305 v8- 155 horse engine.

You can lower the engine idle to set the timing which takes just a couple of minutes if you prepare everything, then raise it back to their recommended rpm.

You should have a VIN # on the drivers side of the dash where it meets the windshield. Take a photo of it and bring it along with the bill of sale to your license department and see what they say. You may have to get a bonded title.

Actually Bob's website mentions that both prefixes were used, but the sequence numbers that he has is correct, so it's whatever is on the Avanti VIN plate that counts

It shows this:

RQB numbers were not used in 1985. The correct number is AAV-4252 and is shown on Bob Johnstone's website as being owned by Jack White of Charlotte, NC as of 5/2015. You can contact him with a current photo and your information to update his registry: avanti5011@gmail.com

3.5 lbs is what my 82 held

If you are saying that gasoline is leaking onto the engine where the metal fuel line threads into the carb body, then the only reason for that is the fitting isn't seating correctly when tightening. If so, then double check the flare on the line and carb to be sure they are clean and smooth. If so, then you will use the new filter/gaskets PLUS apply about 3-4 loops of plumbers' tape around the threads of the "Nut" threads to aid in sealing. You want the tape to only be on the threaded area of the nut. Be sure both threaded sections are clean before assembly. A little rubbing alcohol used on the threads before wrapping and installing will help dry off the threads to help the plumbers tape do its job.

The 7 pin round plug is for speaker amp to connect to the radio. There are 4 positive speaker wires, 1 ground, 12V and switched 12V. The amp takes the 4 speaker signal wires and the single ground input and sends out a pair of wires for each speaker with a + and - for each speaker. (strange set up if you ask me). The radio also had a wire remote option, so I'm guessing that is what the board may be for?

Sold $39750!