ronmanfredi

That seems a little high. Naturally the air passing through the core won't match the core temperature, but it should be in the mid-high 40's with an outside tempurature of the mid 80's. Usually a 40 degree difference is considered good. You should be checking the air tempurature on medium fan speed also, rpms at 2,000 if in the garage.

Is hot water circulating in the heater core with the A/C on?

Are you running the oem reostat resistor type fan switch or the current 3 speek switch? On ours, I replaced the old reostat switch with the 3 speed switch, the same compressor as yours and it cools the car just fine (here is central Texas). With the evap in the 30's, the only thing that needs to happen is to be sure the fan is running at correct speeds. Also, check and be sure you don't have any leaks at the firewall and fresh air vents, letting hot outside air in.

I changed all the lights on mine to Auxito 1156 - 1157 off Amazon and there isn't any static. I also used the United Pacific 90652 Electronic turn signal flasher WITH ground lead for the turn and emergency flaser. The ground lead is what makes the flasher work with led bulbs without the need to add resistors, etc. The flasher comes with a reversing adapter in case the fuse box is wired backwards, which my emergency flasher was. (a standard flasher doesn't care what wire is connected to which terminal)..

Replacement carpet kits come with the pad preinstalled on the carpet. Other than that, you'd need to get the cut and fit stick on insulation sheets for sound proofing.

I did the same about a year ago and it works great. Painted it black before installing to attempt to keep the OEM look, as best as possible.

https://www.nostalgicmotorcars.net/uploads/1/2/4/8/124888690/evaporatorcore_aoai194.pdf

Dana also stamped the info onto the housing. On my 1982, I found mine after removing the rear cover, it was stamped into the housing where the gasket was. You might also look on the housing axle tubes, I read somewhere that they sometimes stamped the info on the tube ( wasn't on mine)

On my 82, the panel is screwed onto the evaporater along the outer edges, then the carpet was glued on top. You'll need to pull the edge of the carpet loose to see the screws. Don't know about the valve.

Ok, lets go over this really well. Your 83 model came with the original GM CCC Computer control system that includes an HEI electronic ignition, various sensors, the CCC electric quadrajet carb and a computer mounted under the glove box from the factory. The system controls the fuel mixture, ignition timing and the 200R4 automatic transmission lock up converter. If you decide to remove the system and replace the carburator and distributor from a non CCC vehicle, your lockup converter function of the transmission will no longer work, unless you add a manual switch to engage it. I have an 82 model which has the same system on it. When purchased, the check engine light was on and the engine didn't run very well. After rebuilding the CCC Quadrajet using parts from "quadrajet power store", replacing the O2 sensor and replacing all the vacuum lines, it now starts and runs very well.

If not, then get the carb # off the main body and give them a call, they can tell you which one does fit.

https://quadrajetpower.com/fuel-inlet-fitting-gasket-72-and-later-nylon-style/ If in doubt, give them a call. They have all the parts you'll ever need for your QJet

The tach signal is picked up at the HEI distributor cap. Pull the wire off the distributor cap (or all 2-3 of them), clean the connections and reinstall. Also, check the ground connection at the back of the gauge (white wire).

Lubing the worm gear and glass track center/sides can be done front the roof. The motors in these have plenty of torque, they aren't undersized. If the glass is out and the track moves freely on the gear and sides, then I'd suspect the motor has a problem. I know there is a rear access panel over the back seat, but I can't remember if you can access the motor from there or not. If so, then take it out for service. The headliner requires removing the rear glass and I think the small side windows in order to take it down, a big job.

I had the exact same problem on my 82 model. It was the antenna. I removed the nut, cleaned everything really good and then applied some black silicone gasket sealant to the area. After I tighted the nut down, I wiped off the excessive sealant until everything looked good. Be sure to check the antenna drain hose and be sure it's clear if yours has one. The water no longer is a problem in my trunk!

350 with a 200R4. If you get a high horsepower 350 then you should get a built 200R4 for it.

You can remove the power wire from the voltmeter and seal off the end. Then run a new power wire to the fuse box spade terminal that only becomes hot when the key is on.

My 82 does not have any removable battery tray and doesn't need one. There is a place for the top battery frame clamp rods to go and that's it.