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If you mean how would you install the stainless steel factory grille, you would only need to utilize the factory mounting holes in the fiberglass, which should already be there……I’m pretty sure every ‘83 Avanti left the factory with that stainless steel grille. If your car has had bodywork and the mounting holes for the grille were not drilled, it would be easy to drill the required grille mounting holes in the fiberglass.

Last I heard was that he was almost 90 years old. One can probably assume that the book is no longer available from him.

My 83 has no grille and I don’t see how one would be attached. Parts book isn’t much help. Looks like lots of options on materials. I’ve painted the air dam I got from Michael Phillips and was considering fabricating a grille as I was flopping around on the floor installing that. Mike

My power steering in my '72 is not working at all. I replaced the pump with a new one, installed the seal kit in the control valve and there are no leaks. I don't know how to tell which is suspect, the cylinder or the control valve.

RQB3263/81 .... THIS GRILL WAS FABED FROM PLASTIC WIN-DIXIE SHOPPING CART MATERIAL .... INDESTRUCTIBLE, EASILY REPLACEABLE, ... AND FREE.....BILL IN FLORIDA

RQB3263/81 .... NEVER HEARD OF THEM BUT ILL BET THERE PLASTIC .... I FABED 3263 GRILL FROM STAINLESS STEEL...

Anyone have any experience with this company and their grille material? https://www.customcargrills.com/index.asp

The motor I took off has 4 wires, the "new" motor has 5. I'm cleaning up the old one and going to reinstall it.

WOW EXCELLENT PERFECT THATS EXACTLY WHAT I NEEDED T KNOW ..... THANKS

These came with the kit I received.

The rod should be 23mm if I remember well:

Apparently the link has expired.

Nice looking car! If it were me, I'd contact Turner through his website.

WHAT BRAKE PADS ARE USED ON MY TURNER FRONT BRAKE CONVERSION ?? I WILL BE PULLING THE FRONT WHEELS NEXT WEEK TO REPLACE GREASE FITTING, ADJ. STEERING BOX, CHK. WHEEL BEARING SECURITY, AND OVERALL TIGHTNESS .... SO I MIGHT AS WELL THROUGH IN ANOTHER SET OF PADS.... KEEP IN TOUCH ... BILL IN FLORIDA... THANKS

I've never heard of not bench bleeding a M.C., and, although I'm not an expert, I've done my own brakes for 50 years. --Dwight

In the master cyl box it stated not to bench bleed. So I didn’t.

As this link no longer works, could someone provide the email address ?

Did you bench bleed the MC? If not, I'd suggest you start there, and then adjust the push rod when you reinstall the MC.

I agree with Mel…. the booster rod is probably adjusted short.

Being you changed the master cylinder, I'd probably start with assuring the clearance between the end of the booster rod and the seat of the master cylinder piston is within spec's. If you're uncertain, a tool is available which is used for this. Good luck.

Folks, I need your help. I’m working on a 64 Avanti without the “anti roll” feature. I’ve replaced the front caliber blocks, rear wheel cyl, front & rear flex lines and master cyl. I don’t know what I have done wrong, cause I can’t get any pressure when bleeding. I tried having my helper push down on the pedal and hold it to the floor, I got air out of the RR, and LR, then RF and LF, but I cannot get any pedal. I had my helper pump the pedal with the same results. All parts from Studebaker Intl. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

You might have a bad switch.

I looked at the wiring on Bob Johnstones web site, and it says the red wire is high speed, and the yellow is low speed, and blue is park, white is ground. I only get any movement with power to the black wire. This is with the plug disconnected from the main harness. What is the deal?

Contact either Jon Myer at Myer’s Studebaker or Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors. Jon Myer may well have a good used one while Dan Booth may have a NOS original.