Mel

Fuel delivery problem to the carburetor; filter is good. Fuel pump replacement didn't help; this was a lot of fun as the (replacement) outlet is angled a bit closer to the crossmember. I have a shutoff solenoid under the car right at the bottom of the tank; solenoid is operative as I can blow into the inlet and it opens well when power is applied. Upon removal of the 'pinch' clamp on the outlet from the tank, I have no fuel flow. (I know the tank has at least 4 gallons in it as I initially thought I'd run of gas.) I think I'll have to remove the tank and go from there. I've read that apparently the baffles can let go and possibly fall above the outlet. I believe the car has always been garaged. Is it worth trying to remove just the outlet fitting and trying to 'root out' the plug there? (I know this has to come out anyway if I decide to take the tank out.) If the tank seems 'a mess', is a replacement tank the way to go or have it opened up and repaired. Anybody got any ideas/advice? Thanks in advance.

I had the same problem. If you have access to the older issues, specifically Issue 175 (Summer/Fall 2016, pg. 35), I wrote up my experience. Succinctly, I had a hole in the passenger exhaust manifold which, I think, was original and, I also think, machined to accept a stovepipe which led up to the (engine heated) automatic choke. Mine is a '66 and carbureted but now has a different choke mechanism; I don't know if yours is similarly equipped. The hole is on the inner side of the manifold and goes up through the exhaust pipe mounting flange into the heat riser mechanism. I started a 5/16-18 regular tap and finished with a 5/16-18 bottoming tap and made about 6 complete threads. Both Noise and exhaust smell significantly reduced. Good luck.

Thanks, guys.

Anyone know where I can get the brake booster valve for my 66. The booster has the keyed hole and the valve twists and locks into place. Studebaker International sent the wrong one and I was told that was the only type they had.

Update on my note above. I'd replaced the booster and master cylinder and thought I had everything adjusted properly but, apparently not. The braking had a very hard pedal and acted as if the booster wasn't working at all. I performed the check on the booster as referenced in my note above; it was working properly. I placed washers between the booster and m/c for spacers and everything worked properly -- i.e., the rod was adjusted a bit long. Interestingly, the pads were not dragging. Hope this helps.

There is a You Tube video on checking the operation of the booster -- "BRAKE BOOSTER PERFORMANCE CHECK". He isolates the booster from the system, he actually holds it in his hands at the side of the car, and runs it through the checks. If the brakes are dragging, you may have the adjustment rod in the end of the booster a bit tight up against the m/c piston which will keep pressure on the piston and, hence, pressure on the pads. Good luck.

I agree with Gary above; NEVER cut coil springs. As I understand it, if you cut a coil spring you'll end up with a higher spring constant -- i.e., a firmer ride. Here I'm guessing but if you cut springs, you might not have enough adjustment tolerance for proper alignment, particularly the camber. You could get some rake by lifting the back end a bit. Eaton makes springs from original spec's and I replaced my back ones, heavy duty version which added another leaf to the mix, which gave the car quite a bit of rake; I actually put some lowering blocks in place to bring it down a bit.

While replacing my sending unit, I also put some sound deadening material under the seat and behind the back lean. Really seemed to help.