Mel

A few thoughts: My 66 had the original B/W auto trans. which I had swapped out for a 700R4. As I understand it, that transmission was made for the 'B' body (big) GM cars -- Caprice, etc., (which were a lot heavier than an Avanti) and were electronically controlled. A couple of kits were installed to adapt it to throttle (only) control. The shift from 1st to 2nd is of higher RPM, probably to get a Caprice (tank) moving, than is required for the Avanti and the shift is 'solid' if accelerating slowly but smooth if accelerating hard. I've not tried adjusting the throttle adjustment but a GM guru I ran into was not surprised. It may just be the nature of the beast with the throttle control. I don't like to dog it so the 1st to 2nd shift gets a little annoying. I've not had any experience with a 350 but the above is something I'd keep in mind. But if you are going the distance to do an engine swap, I'd definitely think GM transmission. An overdrive drop the rpm to ~2150-2200 at 70mph and lets you hear the person sitting next to you. Regarding the cam and lifter wear. I was not familiar with these sbc motors being notorious for having this trouble but these flat tappet cam engines need zinc. You can read up on this but, as I understand it, zinc molecules in the oil create a microscopic clearance between the lifter to cam lobe and the rod bearing to crank journal surfaces. You can buy ZDDP additive but Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil and Shell Rotella fit this bill. The parts stores often have to order this from their warehouse. Good luck.

Take the rotor off and clean all the grease out of the areas, inside the rotor hub, where the bearings rest and see if one of the beveled rings (race) inside seems loose or can be wiggled around at all. You stated above that you repacked the bearings but if you ascertain the existing races are pressed in tightly, I'd consider having the races replaced and install new bearings. Did the noise start suddenly after you did any previous work, hit a pothole, etc.? Is it particularly prominent during a right or left turn? Sounds to me like a bearing/race issue. Good luck. Keep us posted. Thanks.

On one car I had, eons ago, one of the bearing races was a bit loose in the drum. The bearing had never seized so I don't know why the race was loose but ... Might be worth a look. Good luck.

It looks like the car is basically all there. You have to decide how much you can do yourself and how much you are willing to spend. Personally, I have about twice invested in my car than I'll ever get back, all the (extensive) labor on my part being free; I don't regret a single penny spent. These cars are an absolute joy to drive and always get great comments. Good luck!

Thanks, mfg! It is the SW type. Part B, What do I lube it with? Thanks, again!

The needle on the tach sticks. Anyone know if there is a way to lubricate the needle without taking it apart. Thanks in advance.

There are several videos on YouTube on how to test boosters, both in place and on the workbench. Also, there are videos on proper adjustment of the actuating rod using a particular tool made for the job. The tool, as I recall was $12-$14 and removes the guesswork. I'd check to see if the gasket around the check valve is leaking. With the engine idling, use a small rubber hose and, with one end in your ear, probe around the gasket with the other end listening for leaks. You can also pull the hose off the valve, plug the hose and see if there is any difference in braking with the engine running. Good luck.

The slot in the mechanism, as referenced by Leo B above, is only maybe a little over 1/4" wide and to reach it from the inside requires a very long arm and a light. I took an old flat blade screwdriver, approximately 18 inches long, and ground the sides down to fit into the slot. I also zip-tied a small flashlight to the screwdriver. As do many other guys, I just let the trunk lid rest in the released position for just pleasure driving but lock it if needed. I keep the tool lying on the carpet in the trunk. Good luck.

There are two wires attached to the negative side of the ignition coil, one leading to the distributor and the other to the tach transformer. Does anyone know if the higher voltage on the coil with a Pertronix setup will harm the tach sending unit or if it will even work with the Pertronix. Thanks in advance.

The kick panel fresh air vents, on my '66 anyway, were made of a cellulose fiberboard composite (think pegboard in a workshop) edged with a rubber seal which had deteriorated badly and let in a lot of air. My repair is laid out in issue #170, pg. 49, but the Reader's Digest version is I pulled the 'flapper' valves out and replaced the material with thick gauge aluminum and mounted them on the original swivel posts. Trial and trimming to fit. To pull the flapper toward you, Push down on the plastic where the swivel inserts on the mount and push up on the swivel and pull the bottom of the swivel toward you. Much better fit and warm feet during the winter. Good luck.

Some years ago when I had the interior apart, I put 1/4" insulation (foil covered foam, sticky on one side) everywhere under the carpet, seats, firewall (as much as I could), behind the back seat, ... It really seemed to help but, any way you look at it, these cars are warm inside. Driving down the road, notice how much heat comes in through the gearshift slot, assuming yours is like the earlier II's. Good luck.

The gas tank on the Studebaker and early models of the II's is behind the back seat on a shelf; not sure where yours is but, no matter how the gas got in your engine, #1 or #2 above, I'd put a fuel shut off solenoid in the line. I put one in mine; write up is in issue #170, page 48. The solenoid is mounted under the tank and power is fed from the ignition switch. I also placed a keyed, hidden, barrel switch in series that must be in the ON position to be driven but, if in the OFF position and the car is hot wired/stolen, it will be driven only a couple hundred yards. Good luck.

The original A/C piston compressor was replaced with a Sandin rotary but jury-rig mounted on the original bracket (not my doing) and line up is not great. Further, the alternator sits up on top of the engine (next to the oil filler tube) on another jury-rigged bracket; I'm thinking this bracket may be original. The line up of this latter bracket is fair but allows very little contact of the fan belt with the water pump pulley. Does anyone have experience with the Vintage Air mount brackets -- alternator on the driver's side and compressor on the passenger's? I was told by a GM guru that they make good products. I'm wondering if those two components mounted on the Vintage Air brackets will fit under the hood. Any thoughts, advice, etc., will be greatly appreciated.

You might check with All American Carburetors, Inc. in FL. 904-215-6790. They had about a 12 week backlog when I sent mine. Good luck.

As you know, the gas tank on these cars sits on a ledge behind the back seat and, if the carb float valve sticks open, gas will flow into the carb, engine, out on the pavement, etc., unchecked. From what you describe, it sounds like this was not your problem but, as have others, I put a check valve (electric solenoid) under the car at the tank outlet and wired it (through a concealed barrel switch) into the ignition switch. If the barrel switch is off and the car is stolen and hotwire started, it will not be driven far. See Avanti Magazine, issue #170, pg. 48 for specifics. Good luck!