Mel

I had new rear leaf springs put on mine which put it up a bit high. I then put on 1 1/2 inch lowering blocks under the back end which brought it down to a nice height.

Dan Booth addresses this on page 40 in issue 191, Summer/Fall 2020. Further, he has the parts for the conversion.

Mine didn't appear warped or in bad shape when it went to the restoration shop but look what was uncovered.

On some cars of that era, the headlight switch was pulled outward to turn the lights on and the knob was turned to the left and right to brighten and dim the instrument lights; turning it fully to the left, after a perceived stop in the rotation, turned the dome light(s) on. Hope this helps.

I purchased mine from Eaton Springs. They make them upon order from original spec. sheets. When I called the company, the guy asked if I wanted heavy duty springs; these have one more leaf. I told him OK but it did put the backend of the car up a bit high. I then used 1 1/2 inch lowering blocks to bring it down to a nice height.

I have no idea whether this will help but my '66 (Corvette 327 powered) had the same problem, as apparently, did a lot of GM's of that era. (Does this apply to yours? I have no idea.) Apparently, the spring inside the solenoid was a bit strong and would get a bit stronger when hot and lead to the clicking/starter not engaging, yadda, yadda, yadda. (I went through the same things you've done and feel your pain.) According to Jon Meyer, GM actually came out with a factory tech sheet regarding a weaker replacement spring as a fix. In searching old AOAI tech articles, Glenn Bell had addressed this problem in issue 94 on page 23. Summit Racing has a kit, p/n SUM-G1750 which is an external relay and wiring kit which basically ensures that the solenoid gets engaged. I put it on about 5 years ago (very simple procedure) and have not had a single hiccup since. Hope this helps.

When I had my car painted about 10-11 years ago, I took mine off and never replaced it. I've not missed it at all and it's not affected the paint at all.

Thanks for the info. Stay safe.

Suddenly, the idle is a bit rough which smooths out with the brake depressed part way but then gets rough again when depressed fully. At the point of smooth idle, there is a noticeable (screeching) air leak which I can't pinpoint exactly but I believe is coming from the booster. And extra effort is required for braking. No vacuum leaks between the manifold and the booster. I'm pretty sure the booster is not working. Any thoughts/experience? And, any recommendations for a rebuilder. Thanks in advance.

For the rear, I ordered them from Eaton. (Eaton Detroit Springs) I called and was told that they make new springs from factory spec. sheets. Two prices were posted, essentially wholesale and retail. I told the guy he could ship them to a friend's body shop for the wholesale price; he said he'd send them to my door for the wholesale price. He then asked if I wanted the heavy duty version for no extra money. I said OK. In hindsight, I'd probably not go with the heavy duty as it set the backend up pretty high. I then placed 1 1/2" lowering blocks under the axle which brought it down to an even (front to back) height.