Mel

The gas tank on the Studebaker and early models of the II's is behind the back seat on a shelf; not sure where yours is but, no matter how the gas got in your engine, #1 or #2 above, I'd put a fuel shut off solenoid in the line. I put one in mine; write up is in issue #170, page 48. The solenoid is mounted under the tank and power is fed from the ignition switch. I also placed a keyed, hidden, barrel switch in series that must be in the ON position to be driven but, if in the OFF position and the car is hot wired/stolen, it will be driven only a couple hundred yards. Good luck.

The original A/C piston compressor was replaced with a Sandin rotary but jury-rig mounted on the original bracket (not my doing) and line up is not great. Further, the alternator sits up on top of the engine (next to the oil filler tube) on another jury-rigged bracket; I'm thinking this bracket may be original. The line up of this latter bracket is fair but allows very little contact of the fan belt with the water pump pulley. Does anyone have experience with the Vintage Air mount brackets -- alternator on the driver's side and compressor on the passenger's? I was told by a GM guru that they make good products. I'm wondering if those two components mounted on the Vintage Air brackets will fit under the hood. Any thoughts, advice, etc., will be greatly appreciated.

You might check with All American Carburetors, Inc. in FL. 904-215-6790. They had about a 12 week backlog when I sent mine. Good luck.

As you know, the gas tank on these cars sits on a ledge behind the back seat and, if the carb float valve sticks open, gas will flow into the carb, engine, out on the pavement, etc., unchecked. From what you describe, it sounds like this was not your problem but, as have others, I put a check valve (electric solenoid) under the car at the tank outlet and wired it (through a concealed barrel switch) into the ignition switch. If the barrel switch is off and the car is stolen and hotwire started, it will not be driven far. See Avanti Magazine, issue #170, pg. 48 for specifics. Good luck!

Bad grounds can cause all kinds of weird problems. Bottom line, the more grounds (everywhere) the better. Good luck.

The temperature sender on the block is basically a heat sensitive resistor which, as the temperature rises, decreases in value and sends higher voltage to the gauge which is essentially a voltmeter measuring up to 12v. On a very hot engine, the resistance value drops to 0 ohms allowing full voltage to the gauge which then reads (pegged) hot. I'd start by replacing the temperature sender, hooking things back up and going from there. Good luck.

I'd use this opportunity to have the heater core pressure checked and repaired as needed. Good luck.