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I have a '67 Avanti. Trying to figure out the routing of the ductwork hoses. Most puzzling are the two hoses that run along the inside of the consul (one on each side) and terminate into the space where the automatic shifter is located (probably so mice can have an easy access). I'm not sure where the other ends end up. The hoses have deteriorated and the one I touched broke into segments when I tried to move it. I was assuming these were ac hoses until just now as I was typing this, but maybe there weren't any hoses for the ac. The ac may just blow out the two front vents on the consul. But why all the hoses? Any ideas? Is there any diagram or drawings of how this is laid out? I have a R1 and a R2 but neither have a/c so no help there!

I looked back through my browser history and I was trying to update "TheAvanti.com"

Only issues I ever had was soft came on a 305. But if You've gone that far.. not a concern.

I’ve heard Avanti Motors, during that period, converted some of their ‘electric fan’ cars back to a standard Chevy 5 blade clutch fan & shroud… due to insufficient cooling with the factory electric fans. My ‘85 Avanti has the electric fans… and frankly I’m not a ‘FAN’ !!!!

Here is the mockup with the existing inline filler, replacement is on order. The radiator to filler hose is a Dayco 81311 - 11.25" long, the filler to thermostat housing is a Dayco 81321 - 13.25" with an All Star Performance (Amazon) ALL30240 1.75 to 1.5 reducer. The Dayco reducer is 76950. Gates also sells a reducer 26391. The hoses are pretty stiff, but can be persuaded into shape. The inline filler connection was zip tied to the fan shroud to keep the hoses "shaped." This was how it was configured when I get the car. This adequately clears the A/C hoses, Compressor belt and aligns with the thermo housing. Note that the car originally came with an electric fan and the original owner converted to a shroud/flex fan assembly. I would like to go back to an electric fan - flex fans scare me.

Hi Ronmanfredi.... Yes, a kit is made by B+M but here "In the land down under" it's might pricey at $620AUD minimum. If and when the Computer fails, I will either bite the bullet for the above or fabricate a manually operated system that I can cancel by a tap on the Brake pedal. I need some help designing this but I'm looking at a simple instantaneous pushbutton through a relay for initiation and another Relay to disengage the latter through a switch at the Brake pedal.

The 200r4 transmission has a computer operated lock up converter as well. When removing the computer, you can retain the lock up converter by installing a kit in the valve body, which engages the lock up converter once the transmission shifts into 4th gear. I'm not sure whether or not there is a kit for your 350C but you should check just in case. Beats the manual switch in my book.

You would have static on your AM radio.

Thank you. So it's okay that the capacitor is not actually hooked up to anything? How would I know if I need to attach it?

The round "can" is a radio noise suppresser condenser, or more commonly called a capacitor. Not any sort of voltage regulator. The other wiring seems correct. The white with red stripe is to the main terminal, the one with the black stripe goes to the smaller terminal, often a spade push on connector if original. Then the plain white wire is ground to the case. The voltage regulator is in front of the master cylinder on the drivers side inner fender.

I got a good deal on the 305… When brand new it was installed in a street rod… but yanked out with about 1600 miles on it because (like you mentioned) the rod owner went with a 350 for better performance.

Atlas 710 38-42A

Trusty multimeter in hand, I'm left to determine that I have a bad diode in my alternator. I've been perusing the forums and https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Bhend/avantalternatorarticle1.pdf by Bill Henderson. (Awaiting the shop manual to arrive.) I have a call into a local auto electrical rebuild shop and I'm poking around the alternator. I'd love to have a backup, like one of the Honda or Toyota alternators like others have done so I can still drive my daily while the original is being rebuilt. I'm not a good electrical diagram reader. I have three wires coming from the harness to the alternator, white (or so faded they look yellow to me), white with black stripe and white with red stripe. The resister looking thing attached to the back of the alternator -- is this the Prestolite regulator? (see img 1). Whatever it is, it is not actually attached to the alternator, as I found it loose, not broken, in the boot. (Img 2). The red stripped wire goes to the terminal with the boot, the black-stripped goes to the other terminal, and the solid looks like it is being grounded to the post that holds the "regulator". Thoughts/Comments/Suggestions welcomed. -Dobb

This was in the meet hotel lobby. Nelson had his #1 Daytona convertible inside the swap meet building.

.....as stated above

Then I am in it! I was trying to update the AOAI listing. My Avanti wasn't included in their listing. It has a fill-in form that, when I hit send, says there was some sort of error.

Getting back to this thread. Unfortunately 1700928 and 1700929 aren't even close (bought both- I believe these are for 63-64 with a surge tank eliminator kit.) It must be a combination of the location/orientation of the R4 A/C compressor and the angle and diameter of the thermostat housing on the Chevy L69 "HO" 305. I've tried other molded hoses from Camaros to Caprices and Monte Carlos with no likely fit, even with cutting sections out. What is needed is hose #1 with a 1-3/4" ID at the radiator with the same diameter at the inline filler neck, and hose #2 with a 1-3/4" ID ending with a 1-1/2" ID at the thermostat housing. I've ordered some Dayco Flex hoses, a reducer and a inline filler neck. I'll posts part numbers if it ends up good. Here is current leaky setup.

From Egbert's Avanti.

Thank you for providing the information to make a custom badge.

I did email Larry Crapo several weeks ago but as of yet haven’t gotten a response.

Is it a kilometer speedometer ? Maybe an original europe import car....😀

Thanks Jim- BTW what valve do you have and is it mounted on the left hand inner Frame Rail or is it up top with your Master cyl? If its a Kelsey-Hayes unit (like my old one) it will be OLD. I wasted a huge amount of time researching this obscure little bugger only to find it was likely to be pretty well stonkered. There are some parts for it but it not all, so it's not really worth it. I opted for the GM PV-2 valve and it was plentiful, cheap, Brass not Ferrous and a 100% bolt-up fit so long as you use some of the old fittings. Picture attached so you can see the similarities...

@Zedman, that's a great video - thanks for sharing! Many years ago I had a terrible problem with the rear brakes locking up on my '72 Avanti during hard braking. I tried everything to solve it. I suspected the combination valve might be at fault but could not find a replacement at the time. I removed it and replaced it with an adjustable proportioning valve which solved my problem.

I'm looking for an Avanti Power Brake Booster, new or rebuildable for my 1964 Avanti R1, R4754. Mine came with an unknown booster in the trunk, not an Avanti, which doesn’t fit. Live in The Netherlands. All costs will be paid in advance. E-mail address = 2b-ornot-2b@kpnmail.nl

Already gotcha http://studebaker-info.org/avantiX1.html#r1400