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I pulled the trigger and bought a 350 long block freshly professionally rebuilt. I have a brand new aluminum Avanti radiator. I have a heavy duty racing water pump and electric fan. The needs to be run a 2,000 rpm for 30 mins to break in. I can't run it for 15 mins without the temp guage pegging to 240 and it overheating. I've purged the air out as well. I am lost why this thing won't run cooler. If I can't fix it soon, it will have to be sold at a huge loss.

Thank You my Friend, I got my fuel pump on today and drove it for the first time since March of 2017 and the tail lights and side marker were on while the car was running. When I turned the key off they went out.... thanks for the information//// Brooks

Above the interior rear view mirror (front centre ceiling)

could someone tell me where the headlight switch is for my new to me 1985 avanti?

From Avanti Magazine Issue 187 Summer/Fall 2019 article by Curtis Fischbach AOAI Michigan member 1. The latch assemblies mounted in the header were from ASC, Inc., of Southgate, Michigan. The handles were shortened since the Avanti was narrower than the cars ASC, Inc. had made them for. Most of these latch parts could be found in the Renault Alliance convertibles.

Be aware it’s easy to damage the two rubber o-rings when splitting the cases for a thorough clean out… Think space shuttle ‘Challenger’ !!

I was lucky to obtain a good used pair of manual Avanti window regulators a fellow from Florida sold me… He was parting out a wrecked ‘64.

I rebuilt my window crank last year, not having rivits I spot welded with mig the bushing cap , my crank shaft had a big groove in it which I welded up and then turned down on lathe, the cap itself was also worn the hole larger than when new, to remedy I swedged the hole by pounding with hammer and drift, same technique a watch maker uses to repair worn parts.

A 160’ thermostat may also help ( If your current thermostat opens at s higher than that temperature)

Hi John, wildfelr, kodjo and rhusak, So, the cross over the intake is blocked and a thick gasket between intake and carburator is in place. Also took the best fuel available (98 octan). As far as I can see, it seems to work. At least the engine did not die due to boiling fuel anymore. More tests to come on the weekend, but so far seems to work. Thank you all for your help!

I believe you will need to remove the original Rivets. These can be replaced with similar rivets if you trim the length so when assembled , you have only 1 x the diameter protruding. These can be gently mushroomed over with a hammer (buck the head end on a soiid flat steel surface) to secure the cover once again. Tinmen's or pan head rivets ought to do. You might even be able to use suitably sized flat head nails as substitute rivets (done that before). Pop rivets might do but use steel ones not Aluminium otherwise they might loosen up in service.

The entire steering column is likely a Mopar unit. Avanti Motors at different times used both Mopar and American Motors steering columns.

Need some tips to replace the crank area with new parts. Looks like I have everything (driver side crank) to replace but will be unable to press in holding pins on cover without separating from rest of the entire 1 piece mechanism assembly. Any ideas appreciated.

I think you did reply on Fakebook also. Thank you for that. I got one from Nostalgic Motors. I see what you mean about “aligning” the cap so the gas filler cover would close. My car appears to have a Chrysler Corp ignition switch in it! Thanks again

Those holes (without the plugs) are to let boost into the passageways to equalize boost pressure from the throttle plate bores to outside the bores of the throttle shaft, so it doesn't push fuel out the throttle shaft.

It's in the mail now...Shipped it out Friday.

hi John, wilfelr, kodjo and rhusak, thank you for your Inputs and recommendations! Very much appre iated. I will try and come back with the results ...

Thanks Ron- I will compare that carb number to the ones I see here in Oz and pick one up eventually. My 305 will likely require a re-jet smaller , I excpect.

Thanks MFG- I have recently fitted a dual exhaust (minus Cat- I'll take a risk.. ) whilst the body is off the Frame. The Carb and Distributor are up for substitution after I get the car reassembled and inspected for roadworthy. I'm looking for an Australian delivery carb that was jetted for the Holden 308 or Pontiac Parisiennes befor the late 70's.

cue Dolly Parton's "Coat of Many Colors" and you'll understand Avanti sourcing. I think I responded to your inquiry on FB, but if someone missed it: I bought a plastic gas cap at AutoZone for around $12. Fits just fine, but you have to align it to clear the chintzy keyed lock Mr Blake put on the filler door. Don't get me started on other oddities found on Blake Avantis 😵‍💫

Hello Stefan, I have had the same issue with several cars. Gaskets never seem to do any good no matter how thick they are. The reason is the heat is transfered directly through the mounting studs to the carb. Until you isolate those it will continue to percolate. The best solution I have found is to mount a 3-4 PSI pump near the tank, and run it when the ignition is on. I have an R2, a 62 fuel injected Corvette, a 32 Chevy and a 96 Sea Ray boat I'm doing this with now with no issues. Best of luck, John C.

The 7 pin round plug is for speaker amp to connect to the radio. There are 4 positive speaker wires, 1 ground, 12V and switched 12V. The amp takes the 4 speaker signal wires and the single ground input and sends out a pair of wires for each speaker with a + and - for each speaker. (strange set up if you ask me). The radio also had a wire remote option, so I'm guessing that is what the board may be for?

I have a service manual for that unit, but can not post on this forum for some reason. If you need it, PM me and I can email you a PDF copy. Bill

Thank you, the picture really helps.