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Desert Driver

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  • My Avanti
    1971 RQB 1662

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  1. Looks to be spring loaded and perhaps part of what kicks the lighter out when the element gets hot. The diameter of my original socket was too big for devices that plug in for juice (battery charger, air pump, etc) and wouldn't make a consistent electrical connection. Replaced the whole thing with a new socket and lighter from Amazon - did the trick.
  2. And another piece of the puzzle falls into place! Thanks so much for posting this...I'll print and insert in my shop manual.
  3. I suspect these things were put in with LocTite or a similar product. I was able to get mine out with massive quantities of PB Blaster and a beater bar - don't attempt it with a socket wrench. If you can get it to move a 1/16 of an inch either way, keep at it. That slight movement will allow the penetrating oil to seep down the threads. Do NOT use a blow torch to heat the bolt head - fiberglass and open flames are a deadly combination. Persistence and patience will do the trick!
  4. I applied HushMat as well as carpet pad to minimize noise and vibration from the rear bench seat springs. HushMat sticks to any clean surface, and the padding is held in place with Scotch Super 77 adhesive. Padding is on the fiberglass cover over the fuel tank, and on top of the driveshaft tunnel.
  5. Hopefully that filter is catching all the rusticles from the old sender! It's a lot easier to work on the fuel tank by removing the rear bench seat. Another issue I had was the misalignment between the filler tube and the tank itself. A rubber hose is used between the two, and if it's not perfectly aligned, gasoline pumped into the tank will backflow and shoot out over your car. I was able to loosen the clamps on mine and rotate the hose, but sometimes it's a real booger to rotate. Keep up the good work!
  6. The replacement sender should work just fine. Before installing it, test it using a multimeter. When the float is all the way up, there should be enough current to make the gauge read "Full". The sender aint high tech, and there are plenty of "how to" videos on YouTube.
  7. Having gone through my power windows, I strongly suggest you purchase a new spring. There's a better than 50/50 chance of burning out the motor if you don't have the spring doing the heavy lifting. Its sole purpose is to assist the motor when you raise the window. The glass is heavier than you may think. When you lower the window, gravity helps to wind the spring. Removing a window is a real pain...but you'll find it a lot easier to repair the lifting mechanism with it out of the way.
  8. If you can get past the constant mispronunciation of Studebaker, this one is pretty good! The Loewy quote about going from zero to zero in 12 months is one I hadn't heard. And Egbert's mandate to VP Engineer Hardig is comical. Wish this guy would do a new voice over to correct his mistake (I'll let the Brigette Bardot faux paus slide).
  9. Getting side to side window wiggle on my '71. Check out the videos and suggest where I should start on this project. The felt in the window track is at the end of its useful life. But even with new felt, there may be something else going on. Window raises and lowers just fine, and the only noise is from the lift motor. Once the window is fully up, there's no wiggle. IMG_8973.MOV IMG_8974.MOV
  10. My '71 has an AMC column, but that may not be the same as yours. Dan Booth of Nostaglic Motor Cars may be able to tell you based on your VIN. Newman Altman used whatever was available on the shelf, so there are differences and darned little documentation. Like they say, no two Avantis are the same!
  11. Thx! It's Noico Red 150mil from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TKXCN6F?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details Not only does it reduce heat transfer, it also has sound absorption qualities. Very easy to install (press and stick) and the adhesive is super strong. Before it got blistering hot here in Phoenix (116-118 degrees), I took temperature readings in the car before the new headliner was installed. 135 degrees at the roof, 115 degrees at the roof with the Noico material installed. While the original headliner was glued to the roof, the new fiberglass headliner "floats" and is not attached to the roof. With insulation and dead space between the roof and the headliner, the temperature split will probably be greater!
  12. Thanks...the original headliner was shot after 50 years. In spite of the complexities of the installation, this job brought a lot of satisfaction.
  13. Took a while, but I finally completed the installation of a new fiberglass headliner for my '71 Avanti, and it looks great! There are two panels - front and rear, with the roll bar separating the two. I used a thin rope to pull the rear window seal over the headliner, but could've used my finger as the seal was quite pliable. The roll bar cover was coming apart after all the years and heat. I basically rebuilt it using existing parts, silicone adhesive, Gorilla Glue tape, and straightened all the clips that hold it to the roll bar. Crash panels (above driver and passenger windows) required all new clips. The rear headliner panel was a challenge...the curl in the fiberglass had a mind of it's own. Plus it had to be shortened front to back by about an inch. Cutting fiberglass with a sharp pair of scissors while maintaining the radius for the rear window was a challenge. The last photo is of the fiberglass I cut in order to install the rear headliner (front headliner fit perfectly). On a difficulty scale of 1 to 10, the front panel was a 6 and the rear was an 8. After the installation I wrote recommendations to the instructions that came with the kit. If you want to tackle a project like this...go for it! You'll really like the finished results. And I'll be happy to share my recommendations.
  14. Lew Schucart, editor extraordinaire of Avanti Magazine, can probably help you out: editor@aoai.org
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