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Nice looking car! If it were me, I'd contact Turner through his website.

WHAT BRAKE PADS ARE USED ON MY TURNER FRONT BRAKE CONVERSION ?? I WILL BE PULLING THE FRONT WHEELS NEXT WEEK TO REPLACE GREASE FITTING, ADJ. STEERING BOX, CHK. WHEEL BEARING SECURITY, AND OVERALL TIGHTNESS .... SO I MIGHT AS WELL THROUGH IN ANOTHER SET OF PADS.... KEEP IN TOUCH ... BILL IN FLORIDA... THANKS

I've never heard of not bench bleeding a M.C., and, although I'm not an expert, I've done my own brakes for 50 years. --Dwight

In the master cyl box it stated not to bench bleed. So I didn’t.

As this link no longer works, could someone provide the email address ?

Did you bench bleed the MC? If not, I'd suggest you start there, and then adjust the push rod when you reinstall the MC.

I agree with Mel…. the booster rod is probably adjusted short.

Being you changed the master cylinder, I'd probably start with assuring the clearance between the end of the booster rod and the seat of the master cylinder piston is within spec's. If you're uncertain, a tool is available which is used for this. Good luck.

Folks, I need your help. I’m working on a 64 Avanti without the “anti roll” feature. I’ve replaced the front caliber blocks, rear wheel cyl, front & rear flex lines and master cyl. I don’t know what I have done wrong, cause I can’t get any pressure when bleeding. I tried having my helper push down on the pedal and hold it to the floor, I got air out of the RR, and LR, then RF and LF, but I cannot get any pedal. I had my helper pump the pedal with the same results. All parts from Studebaker Intl. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

You might have a bad switch.

I looked at the wiring on Bob Johnstones web site, and it says the red wire is high speed, and the yellow is low speed, and blue is park, white is ground. I only get any movement with power to the black wire. This is with the plug disconnected from the main harness. What is the deal?

Contact either Jon Myer at Myer’s Studebaker or Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors. Jon Myer may well have a good used one while Dan Booth may have a NOS original.

Thanks for the pictures. They really help. Maybe I can make one since it seems like an easy enough piece to fashion.

The arm goes in the slot.

My car is missing the glove box check arm (part number 1350995). Does anyone have a source for one of these? I can see how it attaches to the glove box door, one screw, but there are no obvious holes for attaching it to the fiberglass of the dash. How does it attach to the dash? Thanks for any help, Tom

I have noticed the issue You are talking of . Even in the Trans Am model. My car has been mothballed for the winter but it's an interesting fix. and I'll look into it.

Correction e-mail address = 2b-ornot-2b@kpnmail.nl

Dear Dwight, perhaps I’ve missed your message regarding your price for the booster + costs for transport to SI. Hope to hear from you soon. Regards, Paul Manders Address= Lindenlaan3, 4493CR Kamperland in The Netherlands. Mob = 06-47188048. E-mail = 2b-or not-2b@kpnmail.nl

Thanks Dwight.

The two larger pieces are the side console pieces if it did not have air conditioning. They give you both sets. The other two pieces are the lower kick panel that would be paired with vinyl if it was an earlier car (Studebaker) later Avantis were all carpet on the kick panels.

The folding wheelchair ramps on city transit busses are secured in the same fashion. (See Gillig bus video)

I'm not a buyer, but they certainly are pretty. --Dwight

Thanks Grant, I’m going to give that a try here in the next week or so. Mike

Bump

To recap my experience. (I gave it in another posting) Loosely Install the two end brackets with bushings. Slide the sway bar into one end until it extends out the end. Next slide the other end into the other side and adjust so each have about the same amount in the bushings. The ends of the bar will be about 1/2 inch inside the bushings. Now raise the center of the bar and support it just below the final location. The inside bushings should have been in place before sliding the ends into the outside bushings. Loosely put the tabs for the upper supports in to their slots and raise the center support to hold the brackets in place. I used a bell jack to push a support bracket up until the bolt can be put through the bracket and frame support hole then loosely bolted them together. Do the same thing for the other bracket and then tighten all four brackets.