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Bare Frame


tanda62

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I have finally gotten my frame stripped, cleaned and ready for paint.  The front half of the frame had very little rust on it as it was covered in years of oil, dirt and grease.  The back half suffered more with rust but is mostly surface and cleaned up pretty well. The numbered cross members had traces of green paint on the right and red paint on the left which I found interesting.  Hope to be putting on the POR-15 soon and then start the reassembly process!

Tom

bare frame.gif

frame rail left.gif

frame rail right.gif

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Frame looks good, are you going to spray, roll or brush the POR-15? I know if you take your time brushing you can end up with no brush strokes, but spraying really does give a fantastic smooth look.

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Cover up when spraying that PoR-15, it will stick to everything. One of my guys sprayed the silver on a project we had, for a few days afterward, he looked like the Tin Man in the Wizard of OZ. But he did look good!!

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BILL RQB3263  WOW....  GREAT LOOKING PROJECT.. is the silver chasse paint also the primer ??  ..I have both sprayed and brushed POR-15... and find a glossier finish by brushing....  keep up the good work and keep the pics coming....BILL in FL

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DO NOT SPRAY POR 15 unless you have the best fresh air breathing system. POR 15 sets up hard when exposed to moisture.  Absent the best fresh air breathing equipment, IF you breathe in POR 15 and it gets in your lungs it will set up and become hard as a rock, just like on a frame. Be careful!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got most of the rear suspension put on. The new thicker sway bar from Studebaker International required me to modify the upper attachments. The bar doesn't go back as far as the original so the supports were at an odd angle. Bending the attachment points made it work. I had also already added some welds to strengthen the area due to the new bar.

 

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Thanks for the update - look'n GOOD!😊

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  • 2 weeks later...

Progress. Got the upper a-arms on and the flanged axles. Using turner disc brakes hence the bracket. Had to use longer bolts to get the spacing correct for the calipers.

When I took out the tapered axles I found the driver's side did not have an inner grease seal installed. The fun things we discover during a restoration!

Tom

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  • 3 weeks later...

The rear shocks are Koni 8040 1018 (8040-1018) Rear Classic Shock for Chevrolet/Pontiac and the fronts are Koni 8040 1017 Classic Shock for Chevrolet/Pontiac, both available from Amazon.

Do keep in mind you will have to take out the bushings on the top of the rears and either use the tubes from your original shocks or make some and get new bushings.  This does require a press to get the bushings out and the new ones in.

Hope this helps,

Tom

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You are welcome!

So I went to test fit my front shocks and found the hardware that comes with the shocks is too small.  So like the rears, you have to take out the mounts and bushings and install the bushings from the shocks you take off the car.  It is always fun adapting things...

Edited by tanda62
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Got the front suspension on today.  Had to remove the upper a arm bumpers and really crank down the spring compressor on the progressive springs.  After a few smacks with a rubber mallet, things came together.  Now I can put on the turner brakes and have four wheel disc brakes.

 

front suspension.gif

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  • 3 weeks later...

Cool discovery today. As I was cleaning the bell housing I came across this number 1029 which is the line number used when the car was originally built. Gonna have to recreate the number after I paint the bell housing.

 

IMG_20220814_125205319_HDR.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

WOW GREAT JOB..... I wish I had that much energy ...... I wish TURNER had a rear disc kit for my 81 RQB 3263....keep tie pics coming ......BILL

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