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Everything posted by tanda62

  1. Here is my solution for the throttle linkage with the Holley Sniper. Bought a 1/4 - 28 thread stainless steel rod (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G3OIYMS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) and this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COCRLO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Dorman 41031 Throttle ball joint 1/4 - 28 thread. I then cut down the rod to allow for the 17/64 throttle valve linkage gap. To make this work I had to use the rearward hole and will use the forward hole for the return spring going to the top of the valve cover. I painted the transmission link yellow to make it easier to see when everything is back together and it will be adjusted per the manual. One of these days this car will be back on the road and hopefully all this will work... Tom
  2. Adding a visual to see if anyone know what the hole the arrow is pointing at is for. Thanks. Tom
  3. On my 63 Avanti does anyone know what the second hole on the throttle linkage is for? The first hole is for the connection to the Sniper in my case, carb in original form. Speaking of which I am going to have to shorten this by about 1/2 inch in order to connect to the Sniper with the proper 17/62 spacing. Anyone else do this or did you change the linkage? Thanks, Tom
  4. The Turner kit is a direct bolt on replacement with the exceptions I outlined in my previous post.
  5. I put the complete front and rear kit from Turner Brakes on mine and at the same time changed to flanged axles. Are you also planning on switching to a dual master cylinder? An adjustable proportioning valve will allow you to dial in the right amount of pressure between the front and rear brakes. Are you keeping the stock front brakes or changing them out as well? You will have to shorten the emergency brake cable. I found it difficult to find a place that would put a new ferrule on the cable, luckily a neighbor just happened to have the tools and we got it done. I also needed to bend the rear hard brake lines (I got new ones from Inline Tube) as they were a little long. The kit is really well done and has good directions. Take your time and test fit everything and make sure you read all the instructions before starting and you will be successful. You may also have to change wheels depending on what you are running now. My car has some 15 inch I believe Ford Ranger wheels the previous owner put on and they clear no problem. I am going to use 16 inch Rocket Racing wheels and they clear no problem. This is a take your time, test fit and read the instructions kind of project that is not that difficult. Hope this helps and let me know if you have any other questions. Tom
  6. That looks very interesting,thanks for the picture and giving me something to think about I had not thought about before.
  7. Anyone who has installed an electric fuel pump, where did you install the pump? I am looking to place an external pump and filters. Thanks for any ideas, Tom
  8. Looks really good, nice work!
  9. Thank you for the information Marcus, no worries about mm they can be converted to inches! Tom
  10. Would someone be so kind as to measure the distance from the top of the valley cover to the top of the Air Cleaner on a 63 R1 engine? I am trying to figure out the air cleaner filter size for my setup with a Sniper EFI and want to make sure I clear the hood. Thanks! Tom
  11. The shop manual calls them a Power-Shift Automatic Transmission.
  12. Did a little mock up with the Sniper and Air cleaner today - you might think I like fins...
  13. You are welcome, glad the picture helps.
  14. This is from my R1 with A/C but I think the location should be the same as your R2 for the heater connections.
  15. Mine has drain holes as well although both were plugged up with debris. They are located right by the outer lip at the low point of the bucket. Tom
  16. Anyone using the Aluminum radiator with built in transmission cooler from Bob Ziff at Avanti parts and restorations? I am wondering if the transmission cooler is sufficient for the stock automatic transmission on a 63 or would a separate cooler be more effective? Thanks for any thoughts, Tom
  17. The engine is back in the frame!
  18. I did the turner brake conversion both front and rear and am going to use Rocket Racing wheels with these specs: 16x6, 3.50 Backspacing and 4x4.5 bolt pattern. https://www.holley.com/products/wheels/wheels/vintage/rocket_racing_igniter/parts/R33-666535
  19. Leo, The Valve covers are the ones I got however the valley cover is not. I got my valley cover from O'Briens Truckers but will not be using it as it sits to close to the distributor hole not allowing the distributor to be seated. I cannot speak to the valley cover from Studebaker International but it looks like it would be a good one. Tom
  20. They came from Studebaker International along with gaskets. However nuts and stud seals did not come with them.
  21. Got the oil pan on and I must be living right as it went on pretty smoothly with a nice squish on the cork. Also took a pic before covering up and it still amazes me how new this engine looks inside.
  22. Do a search on Amazon for this: Lisle 41900 Pitman Arm Puller You may also find one at you local auto parts store. Tom
  23. Covered up the cam gear and got the balancer on thanks to a borrowed tool from Bob at avantiparts.biz.
  24. Update: after many hours of cleaning I have finally gotten the engine painted!
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